+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 50

Thread: Finish by temp only

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    4

    Default Finish by temp only

    Another first timer here. I am finishing by temperature only because I don't want to spend any more money so no hydrometer. I have taken my syrup to 219-220 but it still seems thin. Also no niter formed after letting it sit for a few days. Should I keep going hotter? Water boils at 212 every time I've tested. How hot is too hot to go? Is going by temperature alone just going to be a crapshoot?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Ellenburg Center, NY
    Posts
    61

    Default

    Is syrup sheeting of a large spoon. I use a large metal grill spatula. If you get large sheets of syrup falling off of it, you are close if not at syrup
    MATT


    2013 - 35 taps
    boiling on a revamped wood stove. 3 1/2 gallons
    2014 - life stepped in. Made a little
    2015 - Around 45 taps. Homemade barrel evap. 6 gallons made.
    2016 - made 4 1/2 gallons of syrup
    2017 had to take a break this year

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southern Ohio
    Posts
    1,349

    Default

    Yes going by temperature alone is somewhat of a crap shoot. However, if it's for personal use only your probably close enough at 219-220. I never could get the sheeting thing when I first started, it takes a trained eye. I do notice that if I dip some up in a glass measuring cup and pour it out syrup will stick to the sides and sheet off, but thin concentrate will pour out pretty quick and clean. To me $17-20 for a hydrometer is not a big expense if your going to continue. I would not attempt to make syrup without one.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NE PA
    Posts
    1,564

    Default

    Going by temp alone can be a crapshoot. Not all thermometers are accurate and some types are more accurate than others. You need to be careful about touching the sides or bottom of the pan when taking a reading and the syrup needs to be deep enough so the temp sensing part is submerged.

    If your operation is too small to justify a hydrometer purchase then look for sheeting like brass maple suggests. Here's a picture of aproning or sheeting. If it drips in single drops off the side of a spoon or spatula, it's not done yet. It should look like a curtain

    https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5254/5...bd3380a05e.jpg
    “A sap-run is the sweet good-bye of winter. It is the fruit of the equal marriage of the sun and frost.”
    ~John Burroughs, "Signs and Seasons", 1886

    backyard mapler since 2006 using anything to get the job done from wood stove to camp stove to even crockpots.
    2012- moved up to a 2 pan block arch
    2013- plan to add another hotel pan and shoot for 5-6 gallons
    Thinking small is best for me so probably won't get any bigger.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by acorn roadster View Post
    How hot is too hot to go? Is going by temperature alone just going to be a crapshoot?
    I think it's only a crapshoot if you don't set your baseline in water first - but if max water temp is 212 at that same hour, then you have syrup at 219. Above that number by a couple degrees then you'll have less syrup and it will form crystals in the bottle over time (like rock candy).
    Jamie Jones
    2017 - 120 taps, 68G syrup - automated pumping from collection to head tank
    2016 - 118 taps (about half on 3/16"), 60G syrup
    2015 - 115 taps, 58G syrup - new wireless blower switch and remote pump switch from tank to shack
    2014 - 120 taps, 53G syrup - hobby vac
    2013 - 120 taps, 40G syrup - Sunrise Metal 2x6, 12x14 sugarhouse
    2012 - 44 taps, 6G syrup -gravity tube, 4 steam pans on block arch, plastic greenhouse shack - (I'm hooked!)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NE PA
    Posts
    1,564

    Default

    Even if temp is accurate at predicting density, +7 F isn't going to get you quite to syrup. 66 brix is theoretically reached at +7.1 degrees F and 66.9 brix, the VT standard, at +7.5 F above water's boiling point. Those decimals of degrees can make a big difference since since sugar concentration directly affects syrups boiling point.
    “A sap-run is the sweet good-bye of winter. It is the fruit of the equal marriage of the sun and frost.”
    ~John Burroughs, "Signs and Seasons", 1886

    backyard mapler since 2006 using anything to get the job done from wood stove to camp stove to even crockpots.
    2012- moved up to a 2 pan block arch
    2013- plan to add another hotel pan and shoot for 5-6 gallons
    Thinking small is best for me so probably won't get any bigger.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Alcona County, Michigan
    Posts
    1,134

    Default

    I finish by temp, but I check it with the sheeting method. My digital thermometer always reads the boiling temp of water at somewhere between 216 and 216.5*F, so I just bring the temp up until it first starts to tickle 224. I shut it off then to check for sheeting and I always have it by then. I still get some crystals in about a third of my jars.
    CE
    44° 41′ 3″ N

    2019 -- 44 Red Maples - My home and sugarbush are for sale.
    2018 -- 48 Red Maples, 7 gallons
    2017 -- 84 Red Maples, 1 Sugar Maple, and 1 Silver Maple , 13 gallons
    2016 -- 55 Red Maples, 8 gallons
    2015 -- 15 Red Maples, 6 Birches - 3+ gallons maple syrup
    An awning over my deck is my sugar shack.
    An electrified kitchen sink and an electrified steam table pan are my evaporators.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    S.Central NY
    Posts
    437

    Default

    I'd like to know how you're not getting any niter. Niter doesn't form after a few days, it forms while boiling over 200 or so degrees. But anyway, if your syrup seems thin after it's completely cool, take it a couple degrees higher, say 222-223. It might end up a little heavy, but it won't be thin. That's the way I like it, myself.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Stockbridge,Ma
    Posts
    285

    Default

    If you are selling syrup to the public the sheeting method is not accurate enough. Why not just buy a hydrometer? A thermometer that will be accurate enough will cost more then a hydrometer. If using a thermometer you must check it in a pot of boiling water 2 or 3 times a day because it will change with the barometric pressure. Today I boiled water to clean my evaporator. It started at 211.3 at 10 AM, by 1 PM it was up to 211.8 and at the end of the day ( 4:00 ) it was back down to 211.4

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Hastings
    Posts
    29

    Default

    In several of the "old time" country hardware stores here in CNY, they sell maple supplies and I noticed that the thermometers had marks at several locations indicating sugar, candy, and syrup was at 230 degrees. I am only in my second year but noticed on my 3 different thermometers, all read different ,but all were boiled around 223 and still were shy on the hydrometer 65 brix. I just didn't want to burn it. I've had the pleasure of having syrup over boil on my stovetop, NOT FUN!. I'm sticking at 65-66 or 220 at 60 seconds never turning away to even blink-lol
    2014 -1 tap
    1/2 quart
    Stovetop
    Hooked

    2015 -7 taps
    1 gal
    Turkey fryer

    2016 -24 taps
    3-4 gal goal
    35 barrel stove
    16x28 flat pan
    35 and 55 gal storage
    Still all manual collecting

    2-1/2 acre sugarbush

    2017- 3 gal. so far
    12 taps SUGAR ONLY!
    Noticed a considerable difference in gal. amount needed to produce a gal of syrup
    50-55/gal. to 30-32gal
    Some small evaporator changes

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts