On my factory made mainline tool, they used pipe couplings of the nominal size. The 1" is about 1/3 of the circumference out of a 1" pipe coupling, and the 3/4" is 1/3 of a 3/4" pipe coupling. On smaller sizes, like 5/16 an all thread long nut is split. I'm not sure of that size off hand. On the pipe couplings the sharp edge is slightly ground off so it does not cut into the mainline when clamped tight.
In fact I have a 4 size mainline tool, the 1.5" and 1.25" are welded in, and the outer one has a hole drilled in the center. Then my 3/4" or the 1" each have a bolt stub welded out the back of the coupling, then when I need either the 3/4" or 1" I just attach it into the hole in that outer coupling, screw on a wing nut and it's ready to use. This proves especially handy if connecting 1.25 to 1" or 1" to 3/4", I just have the 2 sizes attached in the jaw. I can still, with no attachments use the 1.25 to 1.5" but it does not align as well and it requires me to tap the side of the tubing as the fitting enters it, or the connection pushes out and kinks. To do that I use a rubber or leather mallet and hit the bulge into line. If I don't have either mallet I find a 2-3" diameter log chunk and use that.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
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