It seems that evaporator companies don't fully understand the proper orientation for a stack pipe. I just ordered a new SS base stack and all SS stack up from there, it came like yours. I tend to think it's because it is simpler to just taper the base stack and then set a non crimp end on top and go from there. I had a tin shop rebuild my base stack, make an adapter to start from there and go up, to fit each new section into the top of the lower section. That just makes good sense, and besides, I was in the furnace business for almost 20 years and specs always had the crimp facing down and inserting into the non crimped lower section. It then channels any gobaldy gook down inside and not down the outside to look nasty. On the plus side an arch makes no creosote because it never smolders, but there can be stains escaping at the joint when reversed.
Some have argued that with the crimp facing down it creates a resistance to flow, I say, if that concerned them, the top of the base stack, stated to be 12" on mine and supplied with 12 pipe up, would not have been reduced to 10.5" in diameter. My tin shop made it 12" and then made an adapter, about 1' tall to insert into the base stack and give a nice neat connection to the stack going up. The adapter has enough shoulder to support the weight properly. I don't believe the crimps down would make any difference in flow on a properly sized stack, the velocity just isn't there.
I will always run my crimps facing down and inside the lower section.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
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