I don't have any pictures, but I copied mine from a research paper comparing the star method with single pipe and double pipe. I've never used the star method.
For double pipe, in 3/4 or 1" mains, I put a T at the low end of the upstream main, then a 6" piece of 3/4" tubing off each side outlet, then a T, straight thru to a drain on one side and an elbow on the opposite side, and the side outlet and elbow each point straight up to vertical. I then have an elbow, they both join to 1, in either 3/4" or 1" , which ever the main was at the bottom. In 1 vertical line I have a ball valve to adjust if needed, but they rarely need much adjusting. I usually start with the valve open slightly and in the mid season, on my first reag good flow day, I open enough to get good flow up the verticals. I don't usually change them again until cleaning the tubing. You say up to 12', my biggest climb is 9-10', but I have no doubt 12 will work. Just realize, any sap ladder causes a loss of vacuum. However, my thought is, lower vacuum is better than no sap from that section of woods.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.