How does that work, does it shut off the tank is full? If so that would shut off production. I had the extractor fail when we were getting about 50 gallons a minute and didn't know it until some came out of the other end. I am thinking of putting a second extractor in series on the vacuum line so it would dump if any sap got into it.Originally Posted by TheMapleMoose
Something to consider for those of you wishing you had more cfm. Run another length of pipe for more air flow and cfm.
About 750 taps on High Vac.
2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
Springtech Elite 500 RO
14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
www.littlehogbackfarm.com
Exactly run an extra dry line. Oversize in the first place is good, but an extra line is a great solution as well.
Jared
I have had the releaser and pvc moisture trap fail. I also think I get condensation in my vacum line. Last year before season I "blew" it out using a 1.5" valve off my 60 gallon compressor tank. Got a lot of gook out and got a lot better vac in woods.
William
950 taps
3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
CDL 600 expandable
1800' on a 1" line will provide 6 cfm. Then you do the math to calculate the 1 1/4, 1 1/2, or if you need to do two lines.
The questions that need to be answered are the total number of taps and the size of the releaser, and how much further the main line will run after the releaser?
Since each cycle of a mechanical releaser uses cfms to rebalance the unit the more often a releaser cycles the more cfms will be consumed by the releaser.
If you have an additional 1000' of main line after the releaser than you are really looking at 2800' and that will conduct only 5 cfm. If using the 100 taps rule for a tight system then you are low on cfm. If using the 50 taps then you are way low.
For 1 1/4" use the multiplier of 1.56 and for 1 1/2 use the multiplier of 2.56 on the cfm. Thus you will have 9.36 cfm and 15.36 for the max capacity of cfm for the next two larger pipe sizes. This is provided that you have this much cfm from the pump and thru the water trap.
To get a water trap to dump automatically is rather simple provided it is located near the vacuum pump and use a float switch and a swing check valve on the bottom of the trap. Installation of a second swing check on the line that leads to the releaser will speed the dump cycle.
When float switch is open the pump runs. Water fills the trap switch closes and the pump shuts off. Check on mains to the releaser closes. Vacuum leaks thru pump and weight of water opens check on the trap. A delay on break timer will allow all the moisture to drain and restart the pump after a preset time. Pump starts and the trap is ready to protect again.
This is a location that the use of SS couplers will pay off bid dividends as they have less restriction to air flow and will reduce the cfms less than a small orificed plastic fitting.
An over sized mains will also provide a balance tank or reserve of vacuum for when the moisture trap will cycle. This will keep a higher level of vacuum on the releaser while the trap is dumping.
Ben
So far it has worked very well. We still slope the pipe to drain any condensation. This year was the first year we had one of the moisture traps fill with any liquid and shut off. We can tell because the vacuum gauge at the sugarhouse for that woods is a bit higher due to the deadheading.
The releaser is 5/8 of a mile from the pump with two 2" lines in between.
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