Anyone build their own autodraw off?

[DaveB]

Dave, did you tell the controller what kind of probe you were using ? You apparently set it for a PT100. Hopefully this is the one you have. You might try skipping the tenths for now, and see if that helps. I thought I read somewhere that the controller would not read a PT100 in tenths when in Farenheit, but it would in Celcius.

I also think I remember that you have to set the range of the probe, (or the controller?), so it knows what range the probe is capable of reporting,

OK, thanks for those suggestions. I'll try that as well. Here is the probe that I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-Te...item1c320aa746

It's unclear to me if it's an RTD or Thermocouple but the setting seems to be the same. I'll try setting it to PT100 and see if that works. The range on the instructions shows tenths of a degree in both °C or °F but we'll see. It gives me something else to check.

[CharlieVT]

From the eBay add it Looks to me that it is an RTD PT100 probe with a temp range of -58 to 752 °F (-50 to 400 °C)
The eBay listing uses the term "thermocouple" which adds a little confusion.

From the PID controller instructions you would set parameter IntY (input sensor type) to P10.0 although setting P100 might work as well. The instructions state that the initial /default setting for parameter IntY is "K" which is for a type K thermocouple. So you would need to change the IntY parameter for your RTD probe; the controller wouldn't work correctly if you were using a RTD probe but were programmed for a type K thermocouple.

OK, thanks for those suggestions. I'll try that as well. Here is the probe that I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-Te...item1c320aa746

It's unclear to me if it's an RTD or Thermocouple but the setting seems to be the same. I'll try setting it to PT100 and see if that works. The range on the instructions shows tenths of a degree in both °C or °F but we'll see. It gives me something else to check.

[DaveB]

This morning I tried cleaning the post where one of the wires was rusted on the controller and I'm still getting EEEE. The instructions say that this is an input error so either the probe is not working or it's not wired correctly. One of the things that I noticed was that the probe I have has a red, blue and yellow wire. The instructions don't mention that so I'm not sure which post they need to be on. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this probe? I bought it based on someone else's suggestion and I'll try to look at my notes to see what they told me but I thought I would post an update.

[CharlieVT]

From the manual: For a three-wire RTD with standard DIN color code, the two red wires should be connected to the terminals 9 and 10. The white wire should be connected to terminal 8.

Since your sensor doesn't match these instructions you need to determine which wire should go to terminal 8. The remaining two wires can be connected terminals 9 and 10 without regard to color.

Do you have a VOM or multitester that you can measure resistance with? If you do, disconnect the probe connections and measure resistance between the leads. When find the combination of the two leads that has zero resistance, connect those two leads to terminals 9 and 10. Connect the other lead to terminal 8.

If you do not have a VOM/multitester, use the trial and error method:

1st) check that the 3 leads from the sensor are connected to terminals 8, 9, and 10.
2nd) switch the leads that are connected to terminals 8 and 9, then retest your controller. If you are still getting an error, then switch the leads between terminals 8 and 10 and check again. One of those combinations should work.

Another way to describe the trial and error method: You have a red, a blue, and a yellow lead on the sensor, correct?
See which color lead is presently attached to terminal 8. Don't worry about the relationship of what colors are attached to terminals 9 and 10 just as long as the other two sensor wires are connected to 9 and 10 and not somewhere else on the PID Controller.

Try moving each of the other two color leads to terminal 8. One of those combinations should work.
Basically you are going to try each color lead attached to terminal 8 with other two leads connected to terminals 9 and 10. If you get the correct lead attached to terminal 8, the relationship of the other two leads to terminals 9 and 10 won't matter.

HTH

This morning I tried cleaning the post where one of the wires was rusted on the controller and I'm still getting EEEE. The instructions say that this is an input error so either the probe is not working or it's not wired correctly. One of the things that I noticed was that the probe I have has a red, blue and yellow wire. The instructions don't mention that so I'm not sure which post they need to be on. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this probe? I bought it based on someone else's suggestion and I'll try to look at my notes to see what they told me but I thought I would post an update.

[DaveB]

I did some online research with folks using the same probe/controller combination and confirmed that I had it wired incorrectly. Once I had the wires connected correctly, I was getting proper temperature readings. I then started to play around with the settings to control the opening and closing of the valve. That took some trial and error but I eventually go everything working! This will be a huge addition for me next year. One thing I think I might do is put a Y on my draw off valve so I can still draw off manually if needed.

I'd like to take a minute to document everything I used to build my unit in case anyone else wants to build one and has a hard time figuring it out. I found lots of information on how to put it together but the last few steps of programming the unit were absent. I know each controller is different, but here is mine:

This is the controller unit the I purchased:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=106

There are many temperature probes available but the RTD were the most recommended. Mine came with the three wires: red, blue & yellow which didn't match up with the instructions for the controller but see below for wiring instructions.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-Te...item1c320aa746

In addition to toggle power switch and a push button on/off switch for the valve, I purchased a Carlon junction box to house everything. I also purchased some hookup wire, connectors, terminals and a terminal block at Radio Shack to connect everything up. To power the unit, I used a simple extension cord, cut and then connection to the controller. It was simple and cheap.

I cut holes in the top of the Carlon box for the controller and switches. I then fashioned a small wooden block to attach to one of the sides to secure the terminal block. I thought that was the easiest way to connect everything up. I then worked with a friend of mine who is an engineer to connect everything. This is why I can't speak to the specifics of wiring the switches. Most of this info I got from others here but some of it I had to figure out on my own. Most of the wiring went to the terminal block and then to the controller with the exception of the thermometer probe. I also drilled holes for the valve control wires, thermometer probe and power to come out. Here is what is connected to what post on the controller:

1: 110v positive =black power/hot wire
2: 110v neutral = white wire
8: Red Thermocouple wire
9: Blue Thermocouple wire
10: Yellow Thermocouple wire
13: 110v positive =black power/hot wire (connected to same terminal as #1)
14: Wired to valve

Once everything was wired, I powered it on.

When the controller unit came on, I needed to program it. To do this, I followed the instructions and advice I found here. Here are the instructions for the controller listed above:

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SY...tion%201.6.pdf

When the unit powers on, press the Set button. Use the > arrow to go over to the second digit and press the \/ button till it reads 8. Use the > key and do the same for last digit until it reads 0089 and press set again.

Press the \/ arrow until it reads Inty and press Set. Press the \/ until it reads P10.0 and press Set again.

Press the \/ arrow until the unit reads Outy and press Set. Press \/ until it reads 3 and press Set again.

Press the \/ arrow until the unit reads Rd and press Set. Press \/ until it reads 1 and press Set again.

Press the \/ arrow until the unit reads End and press Set.

Those are the three values that I needed to set. I then verified the operation by setting a temperature higher than the current reading and warming the probe until the PV reading was the same as the SV value and heard the valve click because it was open.

I hope that helps and I'm sure I've missed something but I wanted others to know my success and I'd be glad to help

A big THANK YOU to Charlie and lpakiz for their assistance the past couple of days and to those that gave me the specs a couple of years ago to start putting it together.

Good luck to anyone else!

[CharlieVT]

Dave,
Congrats on getting it running. Yes, you definitely want a "Y" or "T" at the draw off for a manual bypass of the solenoid valve.

Another helpful feature would be to add a 120v buzzer as a high temp alarm.
Something like this:
http://www.ledandon.com/panel-mount/...Fe5j7Aod1EkAgA

I run a 4x10 by myself, and sometimes when it is late and I am tired I start to lose focus. If for some reason your draw off valve isn't working or your pan feed gets low, it is nice to have a buzzer alarm you to the fact that things are getting hot in the syrup pan. It has saved my pan a couple of times.....

[Birddog]

Thanks for posting this info - it might be here and I'm not seeing it but what did you use for a valve?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DaveB]

Thanks for posting this info - it might be here and I'm not seeing it but what did you use for a valve?

Hi Larry,

I guess I missed that. I couldn't find the exact valve that I used (I ordered everything a couple of years ago) but this valve appears to be very similar to what I ordered:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Electric-S...item43ba2844a9

[lpakiz]

Dave,
Here is a pic image.jpgof my draw off valve configuration.

Manual/emergency/sampling valve to left of tee.
To the right of the tee, first a throttling valve, to slow down the flow during the draw. Extreme right is the actual valve that is opened by the PID. Both barbed fittings have hoses to direct syrup into the draw off container.

[jmayerl]

Very nice Dave, is the temp probe long enough? What's your total cost?