Firebox size on 2x6 arch plans

[kiteflyingeek]

This isn't the first and probably won't be the last 2x6 arch plans that are posted. But I have some fairly detailed drawings that started from Brian Kloepfer's posting and I thought I'd see if anyone has any comments.


I have just put down a deposit with Jim at Smoke Lake Maple Products for a 2x4 drop flue sap pan, 2x2 divided syrup pan, reverse flow plumbing, and float box. I'm quite excited about that. That leaves me with creating my own arch. Fortunately, my cousin's husband is a welder by trade and he agreed to build it for me.


So, my question is really the final dimensions on the firebox. I have it shown as 23" front-to-back. But after I add the 1" of insulation (board or blanket) and 1.25" of firebrick, that removes 4.5" from the length of the wood I can throw into the box. I am left with a max log length of 18.5" (23 - 2 x 2.25). My problem is that all the wood I cut for my wood burning stove is 19-20" and I would like to keep that length consistent so the wood length is interchangable -- just have to split MUCH smaller for the arch. Can I increase the overall firebox length from 23" to 25" without decreasing the heat or anything?


All of this is going to cost me a little over 4 grand -- I think this is going to catapult me into the big leages of Maple Syrup ;-). I plan to make 12-13 gallons this year compared to the 2.75 gallons I made on a concrete block arch last year.


Plans drawing
design.arch-2x6.v3.1.jpg

Materials list
design.arch-2x6.v3.2.jpg

--andrew

[Jeff E]

I am no expert, but have owned 3 arches. I dont see any problem adjusting the fire box space to simplify you wood cutting needs. The only downside is perhaps you have slightly more fuel than needed.
As you use the evaporator, you will learn what works best for loading and placing wood (angled, height of stack, etc) and adjusting your draft to maximize the boil.

I would recommend some type of ramp, or angled transisition from the fire box are to the back portion of the arch. This will help with even heating and draft.

Have fun!

[nymapleguy607]

http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...light=wildfire
Here is a link to my 2x6 arch I made last year. The Firebox is 48" deep and about 22" wide. Mine was built to be a gasifier type arch. I think I would make your firebox at least 30" deep.

[red maples]

OK, first your plans are a little off. I can't see the dimentions because its too small. I just measured mine and its set up for traditional air flow but I added forced air to mine. anyway.

overall height 31"
Firebox height 21"
draft area under the firebox 10 inches
26" wide from the edge of the side rails
Firebox from front to back measures 23".... but....

That but is, the ramp starts right at the base of the firebox and travels up for about 3 ft. I built my ramp up much steeper so I could get more flame to go through the flues with the forced draft. So I just stacked split bricks and filled it with vermiculite so I could adjust it as I felt I needed too. at this point the top of the ramp goes to about 8 inches back from the front of the flue pan and there is about 2" gap between the pan and the rest of the what was ramp. I have about 1.5 inches of insulation on the doors so they don't glow red... and they will!!!

anyway the front pan will go beyond the 23" firebox one thing to think about too is you wanna be careful to not hit the drop flues with wood either. I cut my wood to 18 to 19 inches seems to be the perfect length.

but you just need to get that ramp in there or just extent the firebox back a few inches. and don't forget to leave enough room between the flue pan and the base of the arch.
hope that helps

[Rance Bennett]

Hi, was wondering if you had a larger file size for both of the plans drawing and materials list. It is a little blurry when I opened it

Thanks Rance

[Ghs57]

My 2x6 arch's firebox is only 18 inches deep, but almost 24 inches wide. This means most wood gets added at an angle, because a good amount of it is longer than 18 inches. It makes quick loading difficult at times. If a chunk gets hung up, the door will not close. When it's up to running temperature, you can not reach in there and move things around. So, after the season I will probably extent the firebox another 6 inches inside. The smaller firebox may also limit the intensity of the boil, particularly toward the rear of the flue section. I just can't get enough wood in there.

Also, don't leave out your AOF/AUF. I did, and ended up adding it before the second season. Much easier to do it the first time. Refer to the UVM paper on combustion efficiency.

I'm a home built guy, but I have to say that next time I may buy the matching arch for my pans. The manufacturer has the experience to "build a better mousetrap", and all you have to do then is boil sap, not study thermodynamics. We may save money on the build, but if we guess wrong on some design details, we will pay every time we boil.