+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: 14ledo81's Pipe Arch Thread

  1. #1
    14ledo81 Guest

    Default 14ledo81's Pipe Arch Thread

    2013-05-08_08-49-02_536.jpg

    I thought I would start a new thread for discussion of my proposed pipe arch. I plan on starting the build in January of 2014, so that gives me a roughly 7 month design period. I will post any questions I have in here, and also post pics when the build starts. See above image for my initial rough design. I was planning on a roughly 2' x 2' pan. I did not draw them in, but there will also be two pre-warming pans sitting on the top/flat part of the chimney. I will have valves and piping to drain them into the main pan. Let me know what you think. All comments/critiscism/advice is welcome.

    I also have a few more questions right now.

    1) Originally I had thought of using a 16'' steel pipe for my fire box. This would be un-protected, the steel wall is 5/8'' thick. I also have the option of using a 20'' pipe that I could fire brick. What should I go with?

    2) If I do decide to go with the larger pipe and fire brick option, should I try to use some fire blanket to protect the flat metal portions below the pan?

    3) I had plannned on initially starting with a flat pan for simplicity. It would not be that much harder to build the pan with a 1'' lip about 3'' up to recess the pan into the flames by 3''. This seems like it could help quite a bit. I would certainly gain some surface area and if I ever wanted to incorporate a drop flue pan, the arch design would acommodate it. Does this seem like a good idea?

    Thanks again to everybody for such a great site. Lots of info/advice here. Also helps to feed my addicition.
    Last edited by 14ledo81; 05-09-2013 at 07:23 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,564

    Default

    I'd do the 20" and fire brick, even if you only use half brick (about 1.25" thick rather than full brick which is about 2.5" thick).
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    14ledo81 Guest

    Default

    Another question. Is anybody aware of a material for fire proofing that mixes wet like a concrete, and can be poured? I though it would be easier to fire proof my pipe arch by placing a smaller diameter pipe inside my 20'' pipe (for a form) and pouring the material in. Not sure if this is possible though.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    athens, ohio
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Search for castable refractory that is what you want for pourable fireproof

  5. #5
    14ledo81 Guest

    Default

    2013-09-18_18-42-58_509.jpgIMG_2199.jpgIMG_2230.jpg

    Bringing back an old thread.

    So I did not end up making the unique evaporator that I had in mind. Its been so long, I can't actually remember why. I did start making a shack that summer (see pic).

    For some reason, I stopped there. I didn't wind up making anything, and haven't made syrup since.

    I got the bug again this winter and decided to come up with something simpler/easier. See pics.

    I started with an old filing cabinet. Used a door from a barrel stove kit, lined it with rock wool/refractory cement, put a tube in the bottom for auf. The pans were made from some scrap copper we had laying around the shop. Main pan is 28'' x 15''.

    Excited for this season!!!

  6. #6
    14ledo81 Guest

    Default

    A question about my pan.

    Seeing as it is relatively small, would it not be beneficial to add dividers?

    I think it would be a lot easier to add them now (if I'm going to) rather than after I have boiled with it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Albion PA
    Posts
    5,099

    Default

    That is a very good looking arch and pan. Yes now is the time to add any partitions in the pan. Just will not be able to solder well after you get sugar in there. Not sure how well it will ever mimic a larger continuous flow pan???? But if dont put them i it just be a big batch pan. Nothing wrong with that either. Have a draw off port so you can get the syrup off easily and safely.
    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  8. #8
    14ledo81 Guest

    Default

    Update on my small evaporator. Today was the third weekend I boiled. The first 2 weekends I just used a small squirrel cage blower for my auf. It did ok. I was averaging about 5.5 gph. I had thoughts it could possibly do better though because I was only getting boiling in the center of the pan and it would all go down a bit when I fired and took a little bit to start up again.

    Today I tried the blower from my kids bouncy house and nearly doubled my rate. Only took me 3 hours to evaporate 32.5 gallons down to about 2 gallons of sweet. I couldn’t believe that fan made that much difference. I definitely found all the leaks in my evaporator though. I ordered some Rutland stove and gasket cement. Will seal it up before my next boil. I’m pretty excited though. 10 gph has far exceeded my expectations for a small 28x15 pan.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Middlesex, Vermont
    Posts
    320

    Default

    That is great news! Air definitely makes all the difference. Also, the more air you put to it the more fuel you will want to add, or frequency I should clarify. Small sticks and fire often, you want to keep it at max boil at all times to see the long session benefits. Great work getting it dialed in!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Mead Maple "It's for the kids..."
    Paul Cerminara
    2019 - First season ever
    -Goal: 3 gallons
    -Season Total: 7.5 gallons - pulled taps after running out of firewood and time
    2020
    Built 2'x8' Oil Fired with Thor drop flue pans
    -Goal: 20 gallons
    -Season Total: 55 gallons

  10. #10
    14ledo81 Guest

    Default

    I definitely noticed that as well. This new fan made it eat a lot more wood.

    I’m excited to get it sealed up better and try again.

    Now I just need more sap... my 23 taps on a few scraggly trees hasn’t been giving me much so far.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts