+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: smoke stack design problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    33

    Default smoke stack design problem

    Hi everyone
    I decided to "graduate" this year from my 2 X 4 flat pan to a drop flue pan. I had a 2 X 5 drop flue pan locally made and it is a beautiful piece of workmanship. I decided to tackle the arch myself and practice my MIG skills and had a Homer Simpson moment. The arch design is similar to the Davy Jones model on Trimble 3-D and I made the smoke stack base 24 " W x 10 " L x 24 " high and tapered it to 12 " W X 10 " L at the top to accomodate an 8 " smoke stack. I forgot to allow for the nice rolled edge on the rear of the pan which sticks out 1 1/2 " (insert D'oh !! here) so I can either cut off this edge and use my existing base or build a new shorter (approximately 10 " high) base which won't taper but will accomodate an 8 " stack or build a new tapered smoke stack base which will accomodate a 6 or 7 " stack. With bricking over board I have approximately 1 1/2 " clearance from the bottom of the flues. Any help would be great.
    Thanks
    Paul

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Thinking about it more I could taper a new base but it would only be 8-10 " high while needing to be 24 " wide and 8 1/2 " long. I just wonder if this would allow sufficient flow.
    Paul

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Frankford, Ontario
    Posts
    1,047

    Default

    I wouldn't touch the pan.

    What about tilting you existing base backwards a couple of degrees to clear the edge of the pan, then straightening it back out in the first section of pipe? A little tapered filler piece on the bottom on both sides and a straight piece across the front should give you enough tilt to clear the lip. Might be easier overall.
    Big_Eddy
    Eastern Ontario (Quinte)
    20+ years on a 2x3 block arch,
    Homemade 20"x64" drop flue since 2011

    Build a Block Arch
    Build a Flat Pan
    Build a Flue Pan
    Sweetening the Pans
    Build a Bending Brake
    Using a Hydrotherm
    How much Sap to Sweeten?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Poultney VT
    Posts
    2,420

    Default

    forced air? if it is just drop the round sack right on to base, like all the new style forced air units.
    Business Name
    Flat Lander Sugaring (who would think a guy from Az be making syrup)
    125 on Sap Suckers
    Close to 475 High Vac
    400 gravity adding more
    leader 2x6
    home made preheater
    hoods
    1 7D749 for AOF
    New FLS Tsunami Arch
    4 membrane TR Industries RO 2HP 3 phase 601GPH 250 PSI
    PID Display for Arch Temp.
    Chumlee of the trader

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Poultney VT
    Posts
    2,420

    Default

    here's what I did, right or wrong, forced air gotta find the easiest way out. first couple pics, the album is my whole arch build

    http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0Arch%20Build/
    Business Name
    Flat Lander Sugaring (who would think a guy from Az be making syrup)
    125 on Sap Suckers
    Close to 475 High Vac
    400 gravity adding more
    leader 2x6
    home made preheater
    hoods
    1 7D749 for AOF
    New FLS Tsunami Arch
    4 membrane TR Industries RO 2HP 3 phase 601GPH 250 PSI
    PID Display for Arch Temp.
    Chumlee of the trader

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Thanks folks
    No, it is a natural draft though I hope to add AUF for 2014 season. Really liked the album of the arch build Flat Lander, it gave me some good ideas for the next time. I didn't think of angling the existing stack base so I'll see what I can McGuyver together cause it would sure save alot of time. Thanks again guys.
    Paul

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts