Barrel Evaporator Designed - under $100

[Agent914]

Barrel - 2x pan diagram.zip

I wanted to share my updated 55 gallon barrel design, it holds 2 standard restaurant steaming trays. I ran the stove in 2012 and it was a vastly better than the standard 1 pan set-up, but there is always ways to improve the process.

2012 Run Rate: Boils 5-6gph better than 1st barrel with 1 pan that had 3-4gph, also less scalding on pan sides.

2013 Improvements:
•Sliding Heat Deflector (1/4" plate) prevents heat from escaping up the smoke stack by channeling it into pan #2 (hope it also pushes more heat back into Pan #1?)
•Hi-temp insulation added to the outside of the barrel too trap more heat from escaping through sides (Note - insulation not shown for clarity purposes)

Hoping the 2013 improvements yield a boil rate (6-8gph), longer burns & boils with less wood.
Working on pre-heater (thinking of adding to frame and put a tray next to smoke stack to get heat?)

FYI, I had trouble upload images so I had to zip ir because of size limits, but if you inbox me I will send files directly to you

[Agent914]

Sorry, appearantly my 1st attachment try did not work, if it does not work this time I will delete this thread:confused

[Pibster]

Looks really good for a barrel setup. You have a helper like mine.

[Agent914]

I wanted to post the fellow Maple Trader members the pros & cons as to my barrel evaporator design under ($100)

For the 2013 season I have made 6 batches averaging 5.5 GPH for evaporation and so far I have made a total of 10 gallons of syrup.

Pros:
•Evaporation averaged was 5.5 gph which is better than the 2012, the same barrel in 2012 was not insulated and did not have a damper; the averaged evaporations rate was 4gph with only 5 gallons of syrup produced, so the net effect was a higher 1.5 gph increase.
•The 2013 mods gave Longer burns with less temperature fluctuations meaning the stack temperature stayed steadier at 350’F-450’F
•Barrel was still light and easy to maneuverable which is a benefit for me
•The insulation on the outside of barrel eventually got hot to the touch (not scalding hot) so having the insulation of the outside barrel definitely trapped more heat because the barrel was more approachable - safer, so I was less concerned about getting burned

Cons:
•Barrel is started to showing signs of metal fatigue after 5 boils, the center rib between pans warped a little, the angle iron used to support damper also warped (the end nearest smoke stack)
•3/16 thick deflector plate is sagging between the rails & plate and if it were allowed to continue I could see the damper falling to the inside rails
•Bottom of barrel warped about 1” where the 2 cross axis supports
•Having the insulation on the outside made it tougher to get a tight seal around pans

Recommendations:
•Weld several braces to the inside of the angle iron slide would prevent metal fatigue where the damper plate is being supported.
•Putting insulating and bricks on the inside of the barrel might prevented some metal fatigue on the barrel but my objective was keep it simple and still be able to put any length scrap wood inside of the barrel ....so it still works for me

evaporator.jpg

Ultimately, the damage this barel evaporator sustained can be easily and cheaply be repaired during the off season. Also I am thinking about getting rid of the center section in favor of adding a 3rd steam tray but this will mostly likely overhang the front a little so I should be able to support this by bolting on a simple "L:" bracket for support.

[Agent914]

I just wanted post the group with an update the results of my first boil for 2013 ~75 gallons in 12hrs =6.25GPH..... not bad for a small back yard set-up with only 2 restaurant warming trays.

I lost my SAP warming station with this mod so I filled with cold SAP until I figure something out. I had a more uniform stack temperature - meaning the fire stayed hotter longer and required less load of wood. The adding the outer insulation definitely trapped more heat inside of the barrel and the sides only got warm (not scalding).

The Rear Pan (#2) boiled like crazy so it require more sap. The Front Pan (#1) took a bit longer to boil and when it did it did not have the same boil vigor as the Rear Pan. So I am thinking about adding a smaller separate baffle (or a partitioned baffle) somewhere between Pan#1 and #2 so it can push more heat up front ….kind like how a how BBQ smoker cooks.

More to follow as the 2013 season progresses....

Note to Self: load wood quickly because the stove will send a flame the door after about 30 seconds

[Agent914]

Thanks for the feedback, but I am having troubling uploading the 1 page PDf illustration on my improvements. Everything I do to the files (doc,pdf..etc.) and the website says it is a little to big. The mod is simple and requires no welding. I got the idea from a reverse smoke and the woodstove (insert) I use to heat my house.

[JuniperHillSugar]

My first outdoor rig was built for next nothing. A roadside barrel stove and a canner. I've got pics on my blog. Check it out.

[Agent914]

Converted to doc into a jpeg hopefully you can read it

[maple flats]

Look good. I got the first one, but had to jump thru some hoops. The last one you posted is better, just click on it and up it comes.
I agree, looks very nice for a barrel stove. Looks like you should have the scorching on the sides pretty well fixed if those gaskets are sealed good. You will do better if you can add a blower to burn faster. I hope the deflector works, it look like a real short path from the rear pan to out the stack, holding the heat under the pans will help, but most do not do it with a damper. Dampers slow the burn rate.

[maple flats]

You "might" do better if you lower the stack outlet a few inches. That way more heat will build above the stack outlet, where the pans are.