I started my oil drum build ,i have all the pieces cut, but before i start weiding my top angle iorn i thought about extending the frount and back pieces so i could pull my pan off when done boiling or shutting down.
Is this a good or bad idea??
275 oil drum idea
I started my oil drum build ,i have all the pieces cut, but before i start weiding my top angle iorn i thought about extending the frount and back pieces so i could pull my pan off when done boiling or shutting down.
Is this a good or bad idea??
I have seen other designs where the pan can be pulled off to the side when done, maybe that person will chime in, but here are my thoughts.
1) Most of us just add sap to the pan when done, enough to ensure that the pan doesn't burn.
2) Moving a pan with sap in it is not an easy thing. It doesn't take much sap in there for it to become unwieldy for one person.Most are not designed to be strong when not supported on all four edges.
3) If you are boiling in an enclosed structure, what are you going to do with an open firebox after the pan is removed?
4) The blower on my unit, not high pressure, helps the wood burn so completely that the fire doesnot linger for too long after I stop feeding it. The residual heat in the brick and metal does take a while to leave, but not as big a concern.
If you are a batch boiler, or it is the last of the year, these are the same issues we all try to figure out. Have fun with your build!
Chri
Some evaporators have what are called "sugaring off legs". They are on the side of the rig for pulling the pan off and the pan slides on them, over to the side and off the fire. As Birdman stated, you have to figure out if these devices are a good fit for wherever the arch is going to be, and if you feel you can safely move the pan like this. From experience, I can tell you its a little easier and a little safer moving a pan like that with two people. Do you boil by yourself or is there another pair of hands close by for assistance?
Steve
2014 Upgrades!: 24x40 sugarhouse & 30"x10' Lapierre welded pans, wood fired w/ forced draft, homemade hood & preheater
400 taps- half on gravity 5/16, half on gravity 3/16
Airablo R.O. machine - in the house basement!
Ford F-350 4x4 sap gatherer
An assortment of barrels, cage tanks & bulk tanks- with one operational for cooling/holding concentrate
And a few puzzled neighbors...
http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/t...uckethead1920/
I have never moved a pan at day's end. I used to flood the pans to protect them from boiling dry. Gradually I reduced the flooding amount as I found too much in the pan to start the next day right. (I used to bring up to 3" in both, then started reducing the flood). After a couple of years of continually reducing the flood, I stopped flooding. All I do is stop feeding the fire. I do some cleaning up and then I shut off the feed line. The next day the pans are at about 1/8-1/4" lower to start. I run my front pan at 3/4" and the flue pan at about 1/2" over the flues. Not flooding has never caused any problems, and upon start up and reversing my flow I get a new gradient and draw sooner. This makes for lighter syrup. There is no reason to remove the pan from the fire.
With a homemade rig you might want to start at more depth but then with experience, reduce the sap level as you discover what depth you need.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
I'm new to responding, I think your idea is good but a rib catcher. I would do something but set it back about 12 inches and put legs under it to support your pan and keep your fuel barrel from tipping over.
Here is a pix of my first try with a 275,I will take pix of the 2 metal bars welded to the side and downward to pull the pan off and it's pitched to the drain ball valve.I only have around 30 taps thats all so not alot of sap at times of boiling.My pan is 2 by 2 by 8" high0205120825.jpg
The set-up that I work at has two pieces of L shaped rebar attached to the side of the arch by means of a metal cylinder on the arch that they sit in. This way they can be easily folded against the side of the arch when not in use. Also, they are configured so that when the pan is on them, it is sloped toward the draw off valve. We slide a piece of flat metal or tin roofing over the arch as we pull off the pan to keep the ashes out of the syrup. This set up is useful for us,since we use a flat pan and no gradient is ever established, and we are able spray/wash out the pans after every boil. I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend when I'm home from College so that this will be easier to understand.
Help relatives every year:
A few hundred taps on 3/16 into 3/4" mainline
Can't stop thinking maple, more fun, than work.
I always drag mine straight over the front onto my wheel barrel. Gives me the correct slope to draw off into a stock pot.
IMG00150-20120228-1823.jpgIMG00152-20120228-2048.jpgIMG00154-20120307-1928.jpgThis is my setup..I still need to tweak some stuff...but I get 20GPH with dry wood on a dry day...with the blower on full tilt.
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