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Thread: stone built arch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wilmot, New Hampshire
    Posts
    45

    Default stone built arch

    I came into some pans 2x6 raised flu...I need an arch and was going to build one. Then I had an idea of building a stone arch. I have a supply of field-stone and an arch front and coller. I could basically build a rectangle from stone and step it up in the rear. I would use some angel iron to shelf the pans so they get the full amount of heat under them. I also think it would be a little different than a normal run of the mill arch. Thats the concept...Let me know your thoughts PROS & CONS. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    camden ny
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    92

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    BHMC , Just my thoughts ? Pros -no cost .Cons -Unless the field stone is heavly insulated and fire bricked (and even than?)May get hot ! crack and blow apart !.Concret blocks ( heavly insulated and fire bricked ) even crack sometimes ,but work well and are easy to frame with angle iron /front door /rear stack .
    However ,Iv'e seen a many a thing work, if a little thought is put into it ...So if all u gots is field stone ? Wear football gear an helmet ? lol .
    But it dose sound like u got a nice start with the pans ! Good luck tappin !
    2009 50 taps,outside barrow stove, 2 1/2 gals
    2010 75 taps 12x12 w/upstairs Scrap made sugar shack,barrow stove 4 1/2 gals
    2011 200+ taps,tubeing gravty feed shack,scrap oil/wood furnace homemade into a 2x6 arch upstairs holding tank and a new pump(thanks to my son Brian)Sap&wood hauler-4 g-kids model A front end,fram, spoked rims, and a tractor trailer rearend (just don't get in her way), lol, speaking of that,she now thinks "I've gone over the edge",that is (otherhaft) Total 35 gals.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hastings, MN
    Posts
    125

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    I'm with Ed in that the sustained heat that we generate making syrup could destroy the field stones. I'm going to run on dry stacked cement blocks again this year and instead of losing 1/4-1/3 of them from the heat I am going to try making temporary side heat shields inside my arch with some scrap metal and ceramic blanket. Next year I'm hoping to build a steel arch and reuse the blanket.
    I've thought about making a permanent block or stone arch but don't have a dedicated spot for one. While not easily moved, a steel arch would be more portable as site plans change.

    The other con to using masonry or stone is the heat it stores. All that mass stays hot for hours after you're done firing whereas a steel arch cools off and stops evaporating faster.

    It all depends on your take on the pros and cons. Any way you go there are a lot of great folks and excellent wisdom around this site. Good luck and let us know what you choose and how it goes!
    20+ taps (mostly silvers) - welded shut kitchen sink + 2x3 divided pan on a dry stacked block arch.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Peshtigo Wisconsin
    Posts
    84

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    I had a friend build one out of field stone and it worked fine, the only problem they had was with the mortar joints cracking. They fixed the joints with a different type of mortar and it held up pretty good. Just requires a little maintenance from year to year is all.
    Made with care by us & two German Shorthairs
    2x4 Smokey lake Pan w/ dividers
    100 taps on buckets
    28x12 Sap Shack
    2 German Shorthairs
    Masonry Arch, my design
    Heavy slitting maul

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Maine
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    824

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    What ever you do don't use river rocks they can and will explode don't ask how I know that

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wilmot, New Hampshire
    Posts
    45

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    Guys...Thanks for the info....One thought I had was to obviously fire brick it, but also to place a fire blanket between the stone and brick... Thoughts on that idea?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    New Hartford, N.Y.
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    2,098

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    That would be a good way to go. Its basically what everyone does with a traditional arch- so the archsides are protected from the high heat. The bricks protect the insulation from getting damaged when fueling. The only concern would be are you mortaring the bricks in? Maybe you mentioned how your doing it and I missed it. The blanket will soak up moisture, so you would'nt want it 'trapped' behind unremovable bricks. I assumed the earlier mention of the steel panels and insulation was removable, seeing it would be outdoors and not in an arch with a roof over it keeping it dry.

    Steve
    2014 Upgrades!: 24x40 sugarhouse & 30"x10' Lapierre welded pans, wood fired w/ forced draft, homemade hood & preheater
    400 taps- half on gravity 5/16, half on gravity 3/16
    Airablo R.O. machine - in the house basement!
    Ford F-350 4x4 sap gatherer
    An assortment of barrels, cage tanks & bulk tanks- with one operational for cooling/holding concentrate
    And a few puzzled neighbors...

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wilmot, New Hampshire
    Posts
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    Ok lets reset a little bit...I have a friend who has some granite slabs. They are 6" thick and 8" to 10" tall. So I was thinking place three or four high and hang the arch door on the front so the door and draft set-up would be there. I could use angle iron to make a shelf on the inside to place the pans on and also make it level. The only concern would be making sure I had enough room to clear the draw-off. I would still brick the inside. So think on that and let me know...Thanks for the info so far.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Richfield, WI
    Posts
    456

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    What you're doing is pretty much the same as what the guys with the concrete block arches do and those work just fine. I had one for a season or two and there are things about it that I miss. If you brick and insulate the granite so it's not subjected to intense heat it should hold up great and you'll have a pretty sharp looking arch.
    Homemade 2X4 w/Flat Pan
    50 taps....but always looking to expand
    Mostly box elders with a scattering of red, silver, & sugar maples
    Allis Chalmers C & Homemade Sap Sled

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Plymouth, WI
    Posts
    457

    Default

    I'm thinking on doing the same thing, or possibly brick. I have to get my stone and timber shack done first, BUT;
    Air space is your best insulator! If there is a way to use full sized firebrick and leave about a 1" air space, you'll get great results.

    While laying awake I'm thinking about this delema, as stone work is hard yet rewarding, but to watch it crumble as your boil,.......NO WAY.

    I would try to use "smaller" field stones just so you can get the "look" but not toop big as to create a 5' wide evaporator for a 3' pan.

    Just some thoughts.

    PLEASE post photos!

    Good luck!

    Just thought,........I used type S mortar and this is the first winter for my walls and they seem OK. There may be a "refractory" type cement that you could use or "blend". I don't think anyone will tell you blend them but hey this is Maple Syrupin' Homemade stuff!
    Badgerland 2x6 drop flue to fire in 2015
    Sugar Shack functional 2013.
    Home Comfort wood cook for pancake sampling.
    Hoping to grow the operation in 2017-18

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