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Thread: Boiling temp of syrup

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    69

    Default Boiling temp of syrup

    hey all, i got a simple question.... when you boil down the sap lets say 5 gals, and it reduces to not much, at that point when the temp hits 219-220 F deg. does that always mean that you have syrup? at that point? ... or do you also have to get the correct thickness also. im boiling my 3rd batch, and im trying to figure out at what point it i have syrup... and im boiling it right now!, nothing like asking last minute
    Connecticut
    1st yr tapping 2012
    10 taps, buckets
    barrel wood stove, 2 flat pans

    2nd yr 2013
    Same setup, just wiser...
    Hope to make a new arch this summer


    3rd yr 2014
    added 10 taps...
    20 taps on pails
    maybe next year a real rig

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mercer PA
    Posts
    249

    Default

    I'm new at this but you seem to be in a bind, so I'll tell you that I understand it to be at 7.2* above boiling point. So you need to boil water and see what the boiling point is currently due to atmospheric pressure. Once you determine what boiling point is, add 7.2* and that is the boiling point of the syrup. If you're too high, thin it with sap. I prefer a hydrometer. It's more accurate to me.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Broad Brook, Connecticut
    Posts
    493

    Default

    Once it hits the 219-220 then you are good to go. The best way to check is with a refractometer though. The weather and your elevation can effect the temp at which it boils. I would say though if you read 220 you are all set.
    2011-8 Taps on a very crude block arch
    2012- 38 taps Mason 2 X 3 with blower and arch paper.
    2013- 70 taps total-50 on tubing, 20 on buckets..still have the 2X3
    2014- 185 taps- Going 95% vacuum, 2X4 drop flue, (Mason 2X6 drop tube on order maybe ready this season)
    Building 14X20 post and beam shack
    11 beehives and an avid waterfowl hunter.
    Wishing I can quite my day job, keep bees, farm, and make syrup!
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Moshe...40072296064422

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    hopkinton nh
    Posts
    1,118

    Default

    that is the temp. that it is syrup is finished at. with the different pressure in the air the densitys will change. thats why you should have a hydrometer.

    spencer
    Spencer Carney
    350 taps
    phaneuf 2x4 with hybrid pan
    2-350 gal, 5-55 gal drums, and a cage tank

    only 16 yr old at school making syrup!

    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Carney...3279081?ref=hl

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    69

    Default

    thanks, so it hit 220, then i took it off heat, i read that it should be filtered to reduce cloudiness when it cool, also read to use a coffee filter, just tried it and it seem that the filter got stopped up with syrup... is there a filter that i should be using? btw it taste awesome!!! so i must be getting close... thanks again its fun to be a greenhorn again
    Connecticut
    1st yr tapping 2012
    10 taps, buckets
    barrel wood stove, 2 flat pans

    2nd yr 2013
    Same setup, just wiser...
    Hope to make a new arch this summer


    3rd yr 2014
    added 10 taps...
    20 taps on pails
    maybe next year a real rig

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    802

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Starting Small View Post
    Once it hits the 219-220 then you are good to go. The best way to check is with a refractometer though. The weather and your elevation can effect the temp at which it boils. I would say though if you read 220 you are all set.
    Don't go by this!

    The temp for 66 brix is 7.1 degrees F over the boiling point of water. The boiling point will possibly change every hour, also 1 thermometers can read different than the next that is why you must check with boiling water. Your best bet is to get close with a thermometer then check for density with a hydrometer(best $15 you will ever spend).
    2013- custom made 2x7 intensofire 1000 bags

    https://www.facebook.com/mayerlsmaplesyrup

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    1,256

    Default

    I will disagree that the best way to check is with a refractometer. I have watched guys boiling raw sap on a 2x3 and guys drawing 100 gallons/hour on a 6x16. All used a hydrometer. Refractometer takes too long to read and cost way too much. I read the other day about a new one that will compensate temp and take 1 minute to get an accurate reading. That is too long when you are drawing syrup.
    William
    1000 taps
    2 X 6 W.F.Mason drop Tube
    1984 Memtek 250 RO with 2 extra membranes

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    802

    Default

    I don't think that syrup would ever filter through a coffee filter. If you don't have a syrup filter I would just let it settle out then slowly cant it off. It won't get as clear as filtered but will still taste good.
    2013- custom made 2x7 intensofire 1000 bags

    https://www.facebook.com/mayerlsmaplesyrup

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    69

    Default

    ok so i need a hydrometer? where and which one should i get?

    and where and what kind of filter should i get?

    thanks again
    Connecticut
    1st yr tapping 2012
    10 taps, buckets
    barrel wood stove, 2 flat pans

    2nd yr 2013
    Same setup, just wiser...
    Hope to make a new arch this summer


    3rd yr 2014
    added 10 taps...
    20 taps on pails
    maybe next year a real rig

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Killingworth, Connecticut
    Posts
    174

    Default

    I live in Killingworth Ct if you live close give me a call and I can help with filters.

    Nathan
    860-604-8115

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