+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Blower questions for my homemade arch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default Blower questions for my homemade arch

    Hey everyone, last year I built a homemade evaporator with a 2x3 divided pan. This year I want to add a centrifugal blower to the ash door to get the boiling rate up a little. The grates are made of angle with holes in them for draft. Now my thinking is and really with all the bower set ups, if I attatch a blower to the ash door openings wouldnt that draft be too much force to allow the wood to settle and therefore the ash go out the stack. I have an ash compartment below the ash door and am wondering if it will not longer collect ash with a blower. I am also concerned as I do not want all the ash blowing out the stack and making a mess and getting into my sap and everything else as I boil outside. As far as centrifugal blower size I am looking at some on ebay and what cfm would you say is appropriate, I dont want to get something too strong either. Thanks everyone! 042.jpg039.jpg046.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    chardon,ohio
    Posts
    59

    Default

    i have mine on the ash door also. i have a removable cleanout pan inside. the air from the fan in deflected upwards off the front of the cleanout pan & works just fine. as far as blowing ash out the flu i have never noticed anything out of the ordinary & my flu is piped outside my sugarhouse anyway. not sure as what size my fan is. i know it was from grainger. i welded it directlly to the ash door with a slidable pice of sheetmetal in between as a adjustable damper of sorts. ill c if i can upload aome pictures of it in ther next day or two. good luck!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Banks of the Wabash
    Posts
    266

    Default

    Hi, I have been learning about blowers myself. Here is the best place that I have found for small blowers. https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.a...c&keyword=EBSA

    I agree that you won't need a whole lot of CFM's to light up your wood with air under the fire. One of the 60CFM units would work, but let one the other guys here with more experience chime in.

    Nice looking rig.
    2011 19 taps, 5 gallons of syrup
    Moved from turkey fryers to barrel stove.
    A copy of the North American Maple Manual.
    "2012 in the book" 85 taps, new 24"X60" rig 5" drop flue, made 15 gallons
    2013 75 buckets and bags, 50 taps on tubing= 32.6875 gallons in glass.

    http://s1129.photobucket.com/albums/...%20rig%202011/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Southern Ohio
    Posts
    1,349

    Default

    I added a blower to my half pint last year and was really happy with the results.I cut a hole in the fire box and plumbed pipe into the mid area (across fire) of the firebox. I think I'll spit it into two nozzles this year as sometimes wood blocked air flow on one side. I used a blower out of an old vacuum and really don't know the CFM, but it works fine. I had no problem with ash going up my flue pipe. I'm guessing my efficiency went up 20-30% with the blower. I would definately recommend it even for small evaporators.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mooers Forks, NY (Clinton County)
    Posts
    61

    Default

    I agree with the blower suggestion. We used to have a Mason 2x3 with a homemade preheater and just a small fan clipped on the ash door blowing air in under the grates. We would simply switch the fan off when we opened the door to fire. We increased our evaporation rate from 7 to 9+ gph. Boiled like crazy, had a lot of fun!!
    English River Maple

    A family operation

    *16'x28' Sugarhouse
    *WF Mason 30"x8' drop tube, w/blower & preheater
    *1000 taps

    http://s1187.photobucket.com/home/AnctilFamilyMaple

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eden Prairie, MN
    Posts
    1,636

    Default

    With a blower adding air up through the grates you will get much more complete combustion and therefore much less ash. If you really crank it up, you might get some flying out the stack, but it shouldn't be bad. If you want to throttle back the blower, I find the best way is to have an adjustable baffle on the blower inlet. It is much easier on the motor and works great.

    Also, from looking at your photos, I suggest you tilt your sap warmer and have it hang over the back of your pan so condensate doesn't drip back into your sap, forcing you to evaporate it again.
    John
    2x8 Smokylake drop flue with AOF/ AUF
    180 taps on sacks
    75 on 3/16 tubing with shurflo
    Eden Prairie, Minnesota

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    Thanks alot guys I will take that into consideration and yes typically I pull the preheater back as there is about a 6 inch gap between the base stack and the pan so it just leans up agains the base stack for the most part. I ordered a centrifugal blower off of ebay a few days ago and I am planning on hooking up rheostat or variable speed control knob to adjust the speed. Also when looking at alot of you commercial and factory build evaporators i notice that they mount the blower behind the firebox and not in front on the ash door. What is the reasoning behind this and/or does it make a difference? Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eden Prairie, MN
    Posts
    1,636

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blaircountysugarin85 View Post
    Thanks alot guys I will take that into consideration and yes typically I pull the preheater back as there is about a 6 inch gap between the base stack and the pan so it just leans up agains the base stack for the most part. I ordered a centrifugal blower off of ebay a few days ago and I am planning on hooking up rheostat or variable speed control knob to adjust the speed. Also when looking at alot of you commercial and factory build evaporators i notice that they mount the blower behind the firebox and not in front on the ash door. What is the reasoning behind this and/or does it make a difference? Thanks
    It won't make a difference in performance. It is just blowing air in the volume under the grates. much more convenient and quiet out of the way back there though.
    John
    2x8 Smokylake drop flue with AOF/ AUF
    180 taps on sacks
    75 on 3/16 tubing with shurflo
    Eden Prairie, Minnesota

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    ok that's what I had figured thanks

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blaircountysugarin85 View Post
    Thanks alot guys I will take that into consideration and yes typically I pull the preheater back as there is about a 6 inch gap between the base stack and the pan so it just leans up agains the base stack for the most part. I ordered a centrifugal blower off of ebay a few days ago and I am planning on hooking up rheostat or variable speed control knob to adjust the speed. Also when looking at alot of you commercial and factory build evaporators i notice that they mount the blower behind the firebox and not in front on the ash door. What is the reasoning behind this and/or does it make a difference? Thanks


    I have fired rigs with blower in front and underneath. The nice part about underneath is your not bumping it with wood or tripping over it.
    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts