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Thread: Arch design questions

  1. #11
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    Alrighty then!

    Is there any down side to having too large an area under the grate? Mine may be quite large from where the curve of the barrel starts down, probably over a foot?

    and, is there a minimum size below grate?

  2. #12
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    the space below the grates shouldn't matter.

    As for your grates go as thick as steel as you can. I used 1/4" angle for my barrel evap and by the end of the season the grates were sagging in the middle by about 3/4". the grates were only 18" long.
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  3. #13
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    Thanks, I read where someone had used C channel as a grate. Does anyone know how that worked out? Would angle be better?

  4. #14
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    vermontville michigan
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    I would think angle iron would be better as long as they stay far enough
    apart to let the *** slip threw. They may slid side to side and the ashes couldn't escape, thats maybe why they used c channel, let me know how you come out

  5. #15
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    1/8 angle is easy to come by as that's what I planned on using for pan supports and such. I'll see if the guy has any 1/4" when I go back, scrapyard.

    I'm waiting on a couple folks to see if they can locate a free or inexpensive oil tank. If not I'll be buying one for 60 bucks brought to my door.

    I sold my recip saw a year or two back because I hadn't used it in ages. Now, will have to see about renting one I guess.
    Last edited by 3fires; 12-25-2010 at 10:44 AM.

  6. #16
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    Consider using fire bricks for a grate. I tried steel and cheap cast iron and it doesn't hold up. The bricks are easy to drill and cut. The forced air will keep most of them open and flowing air.
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  7. #17
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    Gary R, would that work without forced air?

    Do you just use a standard masonry bit?
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  8. #18
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    my grates on my 2x8 i made from 1/8 thick angle iron from a bedframe, just cheap junk, they havent warped or sagged at all, and havent even got the paint burned off in some places after 2 seasons use. i think the forced draft helps cool them, but also the sand and or ash in the v is what makes the big difference and insulates them from the fire
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  9. #19
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    I think if you don't have forced air, all your air should come from the wood feed door. I think too much ash would build up on any grate type to get sufficient air flow with out forced air. A standard (cheap) masonry bit and a drill press. No hammer drill. 3/4" holes were drilled.
    136 on high vacuum for 2019
    A&A 2X8, raised flue evaporator
    hood, parallel flow pre heater and air over fire
    12X28 sugar shack

  10. #20
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    Thanks markct!

    Gary are you using angle to support the grate bricks? I couldn't quite tell from the pics. Thanks.

    I've pretty much got the whole thing planned out now, just trying to decide on a grate setup and also how to support the firebox bricks.

    I'm considering letting the steam table pans sit on top rather than having them down in resting on the lip, not 100% sure on this. It would probably be less efficient this year with many sides of pans exposed to air, but would be easier to construct and would make it easier to go larger pans/ pan in the future. Also, because I don't want sap to scorch on the sides of the pans.
    2010: 3 taps and a Coleman stove
    2011: 30 taps, knock on wood! Home built fuel oil tank arch, lotsa buckets, 2 55 gallon drum storage tanks.
    2012: ??
    No dogs or chickens, but plenty of stray cats, an opossum or two, a couple groundhogs and a hawk.

    http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m...view=slideshow

    http://www.youtube.com/user/MiWilderness

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