Stack temp

Yes, my stack temps are internal which is significantly more than external and no, my stack never gets red, guess it has something to do with stainless. I have played with it many times and no, I don't like blowing that much heat up the stack but I am getting a slightly better wood to syrup ratio with those stack temps than I ever did before and getting a much faster evap rate. If I back of stack temps, the boil slows down significantly. Every evaporator is different, what works good for me may not work good for the next person.

I would like to have a higher efficiency arch with most of the air over top of the fire and may endeavor on that sometime, but we'll see.

Yes sir Brandon it is amazing the difference in arches. I also am a firm believer that location and of course barometric pressure has alot to do with it as well. Shoot for the stars and tweek from their.

A lower stack temperature is generally means a higher efficency. But all evaporators are different and have their own sweet spot.

I have my outside temp gauge at the top of the base stack and I got it up to 400-500 and it wasn't even burning at full force. that was for about 45 minutes after I cured my cement!!

I insulated the doors and I can still touch them after the 45 minute burn(I know the longer it cooks the hotter they will get)!! . the 1 inch ceramic blanket worked great!! I used 1- 1/4 #10 -24 machine screws with the biggest fender washers I could find. tapped it right into the door along the webbing. 4 screws per door took me about 30 minutes to do both doors easy!!!!

My stack temps last year were 1400-1600 for a good boil...anything less and it wouldn't boil good in the flue pan. These are internal stack temps. Called Leader and they said yes they were high, but if it's boiling good don't worry about it. My syrup/chord ratio wasn't any worse than anybody else's.

I find it odd that your's are that low...maybe you're not getting a good draft?

mine is that low because the base stack is 4-5 high (forgot the exact height) so its about 3-4 ft higher than it should be. and I didn't have it ripping full yet no reason to waste wood boiling water!!! and internal is alot higher than exterior.

I yet to see a base stack on a manufactured rig that isn't 4 to 5 foot high Red. That is the norm. I have never bothered checking stack temps on mine. Bottom line is, it is what it is and boils like crazy. Red you just wait until you get your first 100 gallons of sap. You are gonna put half in it and once it gets ripping good you are gonna have to shut it down.:lol: Ahhhhhh I remeber it like it was yesterday. " I got a hundred + gallons and Im gonna boil for a few hours to sweeten the pans. An hour goes by and I was like that is it Im done already, sort of bitter sweet. I wanna keep going but happy it boils so fast.

The directions for my thermometer I use for the house stove says to have it 18 inchs above the top of the heat chamber. Seems to let me know what's what so far. When I first started heating last year useing it the first thing I did was adjust the automatic draft controls to get the stack temp higher. it's no wonder the former owner had soot problems.

OH yeah 3rd gen I can't wait baby. I might make a plexiglass splash guard though when I was boiling water it was splashing a little on the oposite side of the float box on the flue pan not much but just enough to make a mess and I don't want anyone to get splashed!!!

on the woodstove its like the directions say my temp gage is 18" from the top of the stove. but for the evap it is really just going to be a monitor for me to "try" to maintain temps as consistant as posible!!!

I ran for 45 minutes to an hour. The water was not jumping out of the pan. most was a low boil with a few hot spots. I am going to insulate the door and split wood smaller. I do not have forced air. The guy who had water jumping out of the pan have forced air? I am new so set floats at 1 1/2 inches, is that to deep???