Adding fins to bottom of flat pan (?)

Martin, how far down in the arch does that pan sit. Looks like if it sits on the arch rails the syrup pan would block off the hot gases from entering the tubes. I would get that pan down in the arch if you already have not thought that one out. Nice job too it looks great. Test boil that baby and let us know how she works.

Ken, Go get that pan done. I think you made the wise choice starting her now. You just never know. I want to see pictures when it is done. All these post you got out on this one we need to see that craftmanship. Good luck.

Got the tubes cut and flared today. Took a bit of doing to figure out how to flare them but found out they fit inside a peice of iron pipe so I cut it 5 3/4 inchs and the drop tubes 6 inchs and then used that to bend over the flare. Worked well once I figure out how to do it. The cap on the bottom is a bit harder to make but I have 3 made already.

I do not have the arch built yet. I plan on using block to start. The pan will fit inside the block and then rest on brick inside. That should shield the pan sides from cold and help boil better. It will be lower than the front pan and will sit so that the bottom of the front pan sits just above the thru holes in the back. I know it won't drain completely but it only needs emptying at end of season. It will be a couple weeks before I get anything more done. We are making another pan like it for a friend but 2' long instead of 4. The arch will be experimental so that pans can be moved up and down and the slope inside the arch can be changed to determine best positions for boil. The final arch will be made from steel.

Found out today that they actually make cut off disks for SS. The ones I was useing were burning up to quick and the one I bought today lasted for the whole time I was cutting. I should have checked weeks ago and not frustrated myself so bad. Am actually getting soemthing done now instead of looking at peices of steel and saying man i wish I could cut that faster somehow.
I now have to solder in my tubes and see if it hold water.

I must be doing something wrong. I can't get the solder to lay flat all it does is ball up on me. I could be useing the wrong flux or the solder could be wrong also. I am useing the silver solder and the flux is called Kester and says its for SS. Can't find flux that says SS and lead free on the same label. I tried tinning a hole in the pan and it also balled up on me. Any help would be appreciaited.

Brazing requires a lot of heat. - not just to the solder but to the metal as well. I suggest you try applying more heat directly to the stainless steel pan (and not to the solder or copper). The pan will act as a huge heat sink and rob all the heat away - you'll need a good size/hot torch to get the local temps high enough for the solder to start sticking.

i'm not a profience nor professoinal solder-er (if there is such a word) there are a few things i have noticed about people who do it alot.with copper water pipes they clean-flux-assemble-heat the joint-apply solder usually without anyflame and they are done.

never having done any SS i'm not sure, it sounds like not clean enough or not hot enough and the solder is melting in the heat of the flame instead of from the heat of the metal

i'd try cleaning ,fluxing where you want to tin and heating from underneath whne the flux starts to react to the heat try your solder, if it doesn't melt take it off and keep heating alittle more and try again. with a big heat sink like a pan it will take some time to get the area hot enough to melt the solder

patience and pratice in some scrap good luck
again i am NO expert this would be my next plpan of attack

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Originally Posted by MartinP

Pictures didn't attach with the last post.

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martinp, i just bought a second hand drop flue tube pan kind of like yours. it was actually made by leader for a few years. the only thing that i can see that different is i have two big 7in drop flues that are shapped in a v. these house about 10 of these tubes appeace, so 20 tubes altogether. the person i bought it off of said it boils awesome as he had made about 700 gal of finish product, with his ro machine of coarse.. but take this as some incentive, and we can only hope they work half as good as he says. nice work maple rookie

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Originally Posted by KenWP

I must be doing something wrong. I can't get the solder to lay flat all it does is ball up on me. I could be useing the wrong flux or the solder could be wrong also. I am useing the silver solder and the flux is called Kester and says its for SS. Can't find flux that says SS and lead free on the same label. I tried tinning a hole in the pan and it also balled up on me. Any help would be appreciaited.

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I have soldered SS with and iron and a torch. If you are going to use a torch, it must be very hot and a fine point. Get it hot then apply solder, if it flows out good its hot enough, if not more heat is needed. In most torch cases I have used oxy& acct.

I never realized that SS could have a film on it also. I hadn't really cleaned it well enough before I fluxed it. I will try again tomorrow with a cleaner surface. I read over the link Hanyes told me to search and it had better directions on how to solder SS. Guess there is clean and then clean. The solder I have and the flux is correct according to the web site.