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Just dump some acid into it and heat it up and it should clean up pretty good. It you could make the holes for the front and back plate at the same time so they line up it would be semi okay to build. The plates could be thicker steel to make it a bit easyier to weld up.
Okay I need a name or something of a flux for SS and not useing lead solder. I can find no lead flux but not for SS. I found flux for SS but it dosn't say anything about non lead on the bottle.
Also is the solder for SS to SS the same as copper to SS. I might have to test out a peice before trying it on the real macoy.
I found that the liquid flux works better than the paste. The SS solder sticks the copper so well that you can bend the SS with it. Make sure to tin both the copper and the SS before soldering. Keep the heat low.
Found one type of flux named Kester that might work. It's liquid and cheap so trying it out wont break the bank. Bought a couple of the brushes to apply it with and will try this on a peice of scrape before I invest time in the real thing.
OK dont get mad but here I go........... If the flux your using will CLEAN the metal and allow the solder to stick to it........and you have two differant type of metals and the solder sticks to both of them and its the same type of solder what is the problem? Your really not attaching the two metals your joining the solder that is stuck to the metals. Think of the solder as the primer between the paint and the metal. Is the paint sticking to the metal or the primer? If your afraid that the metals wont like each other dont tell them let the solder worry about it. I used to solder gold to SS with a silver based solder its all about the solder being compatable with both metals. The trick is as stated by others is to tin both peices before you join them together. Then you only need to heat both items until the solder melts joining the items together. MartinP said it keep the heat low and slow. Over heating will cause the metal with the lower melting point to oxidize and at that point the solder will ball up and lose bond and your screwd.
The tinning both parts and then attaching makes sense. Sort of like contact cement. Guy just has to try it himself and see what happens.
I am going to try thin SS pipe as it was a lot cheaper to buy then copper pipe and see what happens.
I just have to buy a tubeing cutter instead of trying to cut it with hacksaw or skill saw.
We started soldering up the thru flue pan today. Got 2" Copper cut and flared. All the holes and flares tinned, ready to go. Ran out of solder. Still have to solder the flares to the pan ends and 2 more couplings in the middle. Hopefully we will get it finished Sunday. Will post pics when done.
The Thru pan is finally done. Now on to building an arch to fit.
Pictures didn't attach with the last post.
Took me a minute to figure out what i was looking at. Makes sense once I figured I was looking at the top of the pan. Should work as a flue pan. We need reports on how well it boils when it gets going.
I am working on the drop tubes for mine today fianlly 3rdgen has me fired up to get it built before next spring. I am useing SS tube as it was cheaper but it is a bit harder to work with when it comes to cutting and also flareing the ends. I think my cap system for the bottom should work out okay. If not back to the drawing board. Found out a freind of mine is a sort of retired electrician and hes has several sets of Greenlee Punchs that I can borrow so I am set to get things rolling now.