Flat pan with draw off vs. steam table pans

I have been boiling outside on a block arch (insulated with firebrick) with 3 steam table pans. This works well for me until I need to empty my pans. At that point, I have to pick them up out of my arch and pour off the boiling almost-syrup' into large SS pots that I carry inside and finish off in my kitchen. I have been thinking about getting a flat pan with a draw off valve to make this a safer process. Anyone out there switched from steam table pans to a flat pan on a block arch?

I plan on 45 taps this year - probably will be my max. in our yard.

Is the switch to a flat pan from my configuration worth the switch? Your advice please.... :confused:

How much is it worth not to have a sever burn from handling those pans? Just considering the safety factor may justify going to the flat pan with a integral draw off port/s.
You are going to spend some dollars to get the new pan, but setting above the fire it will probably boil better.
You will need to decide on the design of the pan too. since you cant draw all the syrup out while boiling. Depending on the size you may be able to have some partitions and actually have some gradient moving the syrup to a draw off point.
Good luck. Getting a new pan at this point may be a issue with some of the manufactures? Check local weld/fabrication shops to see if they have experience in making pans too. Around 22 gauge (thickness) 304 stainless would be a preferred material.
Regards,
Chris

I asked myself the same question last year about halfway thru the season. Best thing I ever did.
http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...ce-a-Pan-Makes

Hi MapleLady:

I like your idea of losing the buffet pans and getting the flat pan. Great move.
I have a flat pan with the valve also, I batch boil each time.
When it comes time to draw-off it is tricky unless your prepared.
What I do is, I have a setup with pallets stacked same height as the bottom of my boiling pan and pull the whole pan off the arch onto the pallets. I then use the spout to draw-off.
I have seen also a steel framed steel table used instead of pallets. Just use something strong and stable.

This prevents burning any sap, stops the boil immediately, gets you away from the fire while your drawing off.

It works for me and maybe can work for you. It also allows me to stop boiling at any stage and continue tomorrow if I want.

Good luck whatever you do and don't get burned from boiling sap !!

Terry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TerryEspo

Hi MapleLady:

I like your idea of losing the buffet pans and getting the flat pan. Great move.
I have a flat pan with the valve also, I batch boil each time.
When it comes time to draw-off it is tricky unless your prepared.
What I do is, I have a setup with pallets stacked same height as the bottom of my boiling pan and pull the whole pan off the arch onto the pallets. I then use the spout to draw-off.
I have seen also a steel framed steel table used instead of pallets. Just use something strong and stable
Terry

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I used to boil on a 2x4 flat pan with draw off valve and I had 2 saw bucks cut to same height as my arch that I would pull of on. I did that for a couple years and then lengthen my arch and set a 16"x24" pan in front of the 2x4 pan. I would continue to ladle sap from the back pan to the front and add sap to the back pan. When the front pan was close to syrup, I would lift it off and drain it and start over ladling sap in from the back pan.

Last year I put a smoky lake 2x4 continuous on a block arch. Worked just fine. Jim Schumacher might actually have that on the shelf.

Thank you everyone for your advice. I shoveled out my arch yesterday and took measurements of the top opening I have been using. I probably should have given more thought to changing my pan set up last fall, but am now looking for a 2 x 3 flat pan with a draw off point. I also like the idea of sliding that pan off of the arch onto a sturdy structure before drawing off.

I also switched from steam tray to a flat pan with draw off. My pan was a cross flow syrup pan that I use as my only pan. It was originally set up to be 3' wide, which I use as the length. The divider allows me to get a gradient set up and draw off near syrup to finish on the turkey fryer. Much more efficient than ladling between steam trays and lighter syrup because I don't get it burning on the sides.

sam

http://nh.craigslist.org/grd/4909291849.html

I just added a fourth stream pan to my setup. I only take one pan out when I'm done with the boil. I go to syrup in my final pan. I use the flat scoop to consolidate my pans and flush with fresh sap. Then flood the empty pans with water. I put two handles on my finishing pan. I snuff the fire out when I'm close and just lift out the final pan and pour that into my filters.

Ready to try the three steam pan setup, they only cost 22 bucks each. I also got some tray handles that snap right onto the pan, so the plan is to have an easier time transfering. I can add more bricks and another pan if I want to.
Wondering if I set up a small tube over the top in between each, will it act as a siphon to connect the three. I may try that with water before I boil. If it works, then it creates a steady flow system without the ladling, just fill the back pan.
Also figured for the metal, I could always convert these pans to become a full system by welding connections, drain, and a outer frame. May be cheaper than a complete designed setup now that I already bought these.

We boiled the first two years in 4 hotel pans. Made enough money to by a 2x4 flat pan with draw off from smokey lake. Nice pan. Haven't cooked on it yet but planning on doing it tonight.
Test boil went ok but could be better. Had to rebuild block arch but still needs dialing in. I changed flue to 7". Going to go back to 6" and see if that helps.