New pan build questions

I currently have a 2x3 pan with two dividers but I built my arch to handle a 4' pan. I would like to build a 12" pan to fill up the arch. Would it alright to use this after the divided pan for drawing off the syrup? I would connect the two with a pipe.
Rather than pay a lot to a welding shop, I was hoping to try my hand at soldering. If I solder the 4 corners, would a lap seam be easier to solder? I've welded lots of mild steel and soldering copper pipe is a breeze. With the right flux and solder, is it difficult to solder stainless?

that's how I do my pans,with a lap corner with stainless pop rivets to hold the seams tight.If you use the right flux it solders easy.I used 22 guage and 24 guage stainless,I never tried heaver than that.The flux I use is a liquid that states it's good for most metals.Hope this helps

Pop rivets sound like a good idea. Does it solder as easy as copper?

It's not as easy as copper but not that hard either.I use an electric soldering iron and lead free solder.I find it a lot better than a torch as you can control the heat much better and prevent warping the metal.What guage are you using?

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Originally Posted by seclark

It's not as easy as copper but not that hard either.I use an electric soldering iron and lead free solder.I find it a lot better than a torch as you can control the heat much better and prevent warping the metal.What guage are you using?

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I plan on making a 2'x2' pan. I thought you had to use silver solder on stainless?

never tried silver solder,all I used for my pans was lead free solder with no problems.I guess it would work but I have had no experience using it on stainless so I couldn't give any help there,but I know lead free works for me with the right flux and heat.Maybe someone else has more input about the silver solder.

I hope to find some 20 or 22 gauge stainless at the scrap yard this weekend. I wasn't planning to use any dividers since it's small pan. Just 4 corners with pop rivets, it shouldn't warp.....I hope.

I found several sheets of stainless at the scrap yard. I'm guessing it's around 26 gauge. Is this too thin to make into a soldered 12"x24" pan?

I would use it as some of my pans are 26 guage. As long as you have a hemmed flange on the top edges for stiffing it will be fine.How deep do you plan on making it?

My main pain is around 7" deep so I'll likely keep it the same height. I just found a website showing 1 lb of stainless per square foot equals 24 gauge.

Do any of you guys melt the lead-free solder when the pans are on the arch with a full fire going? It seems that the temperature of the pan could reach the melting point of solder. The lead-free solder melts at approx. 750°F to 930°F (400°C to 500°C) depending on the alloys. And if the sap flow is interrupted for any reason it seems that the pan temperatures could go higher than this. Please share your thoughts on this. Thanks.

As long as there is liquid in the pans it should not melt as the boiling temperature is way below the melting temp. of solder.The only time I ever had any slight melt problem was on my first home made arch the stack was way to close to the pan and there was a small amount of sag above the sap line caused by the high stack temps. but not enough to cause a leak.My newer arch has enough stack clearance now that it has not effected the solder in 5 years so far and that is with either 26 gauge or 24 gauge stainless pans.Hope this helps answer your question.