Suggestions on sections for a new pan

If you were building a pan for a halfpint would you build it with 3 or 4 sections? Also, how many sections should it be if maybe at some time I want to use it as part of a larger unit, say as a cross flow or syrup pan? Are there other things I should consider while I'm having a new pan built?

I currently have a half pint that has soldered joints and I burned it last year so I'm going to have a local menonite build me a new one. I just want to make sure I think of all of the options and build this right the first time.

First question, how wide is a Halfpint pan? Second, what size evaporator do you hope to have "down the road"? I don't know what width a halfpint pan is, but lets say its two and a half feet wide, you would want to fashion the new pan to what a 2.5x8, or 10' rig would have for a syrup pan. Likewise for a 2 or 3 footer. My homemade 2.5 wide syrup pan has 4 compartments and has a floatbox on each side. Can the halfpint arch accept a pan that has float boxes on it? Is it a newer style arch (box-like), or is it the older steel barrel arch type? I'm thinking the newer style just has the pan setting on it and the barrel one the pan sets in it. The older style would need some modification, if I'm remembering correctly. I'm sure others here will share what they have for compartments, and you could always look on e-bay, craigslist, Bascoms, etc., and see what other pans close to what size you want have for compartments.

Steve

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Originally Posted by Bucket Head

First question, how wide is a Halfpint pan? Second, what size evaporator do you hope to have "down the road"? I don't know what width a halfpint pan is, but lets say its two and a half feet wide, you would want to fashion the new pan to what a 2.5x8, or 10' rig would have for a syrup pan. Likewise for a 2 or 3 footer. My homemade 2.5 wide syrup pan has 4 compartments and has a floatbox on each side. Can the halfpint arch accept a pan that has float boxes on it? Is it a newer style arch (box-like), or is it the older steel barrel arch type? I'm thinking the newer style just has the pan setting on it and the barrel one the pan sets in it. The older style would need some modification, if I'm remembering correctly. I'm sure others here will share what they have for compartments, and you could always look on e-bay, craigslist, Bascoms, etc., and see what other pans close to what size you want have for compartments.

Steve

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The half pint pan is 24 inches wide by 33 inches long.Deffinatly make it with four sections each 6 inches wide.I had a half pint pan last year on my 2 by 6 which i added another channel to make the flow right.The 8 inch channels on the half pint are to wide.It takes for ever to get that much syrup built up in the last section for you to draw off.The 4 sections will make it easier to draw off actual syrup without you having to finish it in another pot.Last year it was nearly impossible for me to draw syrup thats why this year i ordered the right pan with 4 dividers and got the thermometer fittings on them as well. With the four channels it will be easier to add a second pan and keep the flow pattern right.

Thiems, my current half pint is a 4 section pan with isolation door whitch I think I'll omit from the new design since I feel that they still allow the sweet to mix in the pan anyway when I'm not operating.

what about draw offs? Should I have them box out on either side with draw offs comming off the bottom so I can draw off the bottom of the pan? Currently I have 2 draw offs so I can reverse the flow but they are 3/4 inch pipe and don't really let me draw off the bottom totally. Does that make sence?

I would have boxes on the outside of the pan with the drawoffs comin out of them.I dont see a big problem with the valves being on the sides of the boxes as long as they are low towards the bottom but mine are coming out of the bottom.The boxes will also be where you can connect the pans together once you get a new pan.That is how my flue pan connects to my syrup pan.Also if the isolation doors you are talking about are so the 2 end sections can close when trying to bring the temp up i would keep them one reason is so that when you are all done the more concentrated sap(almost syrup) will not mix throughout the pan and reason number two is so if you are having trouble bringing the syrup up to temp you can close the door and boil the last bit of water out so you can draw syrup off does this make sense?

I would make it 4 sections with 2 draw off boxes. Otherwise when you make it part of a larger rig you will need to reverse the pan to reverse flow.

Ok so the draw off boxed are in, I'm thinking I'll have them install threaded nipples out the bottom, I see that Leader does it that way from some pics. How big are the draw off boxes, and aew the openings in the pan the same size as the boxes?

I think my boxes are 6 inches wide 4 1/2 inches deep and 3 1/2 tall.My openings in the pan are about 3 by 3 inches maby not sure but do know that it is not the same size smaller derinatley

Consider having the draw off boxes sitting lower than the pans and having the valve on the side. This will allow all the syrup to drain out of the pan and you dont have to do the maple pan shuffle to get it all out. It is also a great spot to add a fitting anlged down into the pan for a thermometer port. The boxes on both my flue pan and syrup pan are built this way and I like it alot. It gives a few advantages such as setting the pan down on a flat surface to clean or whatever, The drawoff valves are not on the bottom so it allow the pan to sit easy. Also it is easier to clean as there are no elbows to reach into and scrub. The only other thing I would be thinking about is making sure you get some nice high sides on that with a nice bent lip on the tops for strength. Doesnt take long for pan to boil over if your not on your toes. My finshing pan is a 2x2 and 3 dividers is perfect so with a longer pan I would have four sections also.

Well I dropped off my old pan at the welding shop today. I drew up the modifications including boxes on the side with the fittings on the bottom. He said he would use 302 ss and 18ga so he can weld it. He will call me with a price soon he said so we will have to see, Ill keep everyone informed. Anyone want to take a guess on what the bid comes back as?

Here are the specs:
12x33
4 section
isolation door in the pan
2 draw off boxes (6"long x 4" high x 4" wide) with a 1/2 inch nipple off the bottom.
Basically the same design as a half pint.

Any guesses?

The danger of asking and posting what we think is dangerous because any reaction by you to what we think will tip him off:rolleyes:............BUT what the hey its your money not mine.................$985.00:lol:

It will be menonite made, he's not old order but I'm not sure if he uses a computer or not, I kinda doubt it. He's a friend of mine and is a volunteer firefighter in the next town over.

You might want to look at the mods I made to my old half pint. I did a float box that acts as a warming pan (old preheater), thermo ports and reversible with valves. I would draw finished syrup off, if you finish on a stove all this is not needed. The pix are in my signature.



As for using the pan on a diffident arch, I dont think its worth it, there is a lot of mods you would need to do to connect the pans. You will get your money back on it, just put it toward the new evaporator.

Well I got it back today just in the Nick of time! I had him make it the same size as the halfpint with draw off boxes and drawoff on the bottom, all 302 welded steel.

The price? Well Hayes was way off it cost me 350.00!! Now that my friend is a deal!!