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So the sugar shack smoke stack consists of duct tubing made up of a 2’ horizontal section, elbow, then up 10’ vertical. Problem- The system is outside of the shack hence exposed to the elements and the horizontal piece rots out every season or two. Any suggestions on how to protect it? I was told to drill a drain hole. Thanks in advance! Ps- I no longer use the pre heat coil feed tank system)
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It's hard to see it clearly in the picture. Are you saying precip. is coming down the smoke stack and rotting the horizontal piece from the inside? If so, a stack cover will take care of that. A cheaper version is to put a bucket over the top in the off season or when you are not boiling. If you use a metal bucket you can put it on when you are finished boiling.
for many years the end of our arch was outside the shack we used old metal roofing to make back wall of the shack next to the stack. Our chimney was made out of 1/4" steel material though, it collected scale but never rusted out. it was outside until last season we build a new arch and moved the whole setup just inside the metal roofing so it's out of the weather. re used the whole stack just cut the width down. Still need to do something about a roof jack though.
http://mapletrader.com/community/att...id=22498&stc=1http://mapletrader.com/community/att...id=22499&stc=1
Thanks woodville! Yeah the pic sucks. I do cover the stack after use but the moisture is still finding it’s way down. I’m not sure if it’s rusting more from inside out or outside in. As I’m now thinking since I’m not using the pre heat and rear tank feed any longer, I’m thinking that there area can probably be more enclosed by boxing it in with cement board or maybe corrugated roofing material making sure there’s ample space around the stack.
I think the heat rusts out the thin wall duct tubing. Easier/cheaper just to replace it every couple years than trying to make it last longer.
I agree. I use single wall stove pipe and I have to replace it every other year, inside and out. The heat just breaks it down. The only way to avoid it is go stainless or heavy gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop
I put a nice new metal roof on my barn-turned-sugar shack this summer. Previously, I had a 90 deg turn out the window, and another 90 deg turn up for the 6" stack. You can imagine how much draft I didn't get. While the new roof was getting put on, I figured now is the time to put a hole in it, so I had a boot put in that would accommodate a double walled 8" (essentially a 10") SS pipe. (yes, changed from 6 to 8"). Double walled SS is a little pricey, so I had thought that once I got a bit above the roof, I could go back to single walled. I need 8' above the base of the boot to meet the required 2' above the peak, which is less than 10' away. The shop where I am getting my stuff said I need to go double walled all the way up, and there is no adapter to go from double to single, without trapping water and possibly freezing and leaking when not in use.
Question is: Should I really go double walled all the way up? The attachment of the double walled to another piece of double walled seems stronger, and less likely to blow over (even though - yes - I have been told I should stabilize the top piece with wire). And its not going to break the bank.
Or : should I reduce to single walled after going up out of the boot about 4'? I could use a collar to shield it, as it goes from double to single, same as the collar that goes around the double walled at the top of the boot?
I am leaning toward double all the way up as I want to do this ONCE, the right way.
Comments?
Is there a way to angle the pipe while its on the inside of the shack and have it exit near the peak? That way you could run single wall on the interior and then transition only at the peak.
hmmm . . good idea, but the boot in the roof is already over the evaporator. The main idea was to eliminate the bends, and go straight up. A small angle along the roof line probably wouldn't be bad, but I am past that point of no return.
I think the piece you are looking for is called an appliance adapter. It is what would be used to make the connection to a wood stove etc. I have installed a few on wood burning appliances and not had an issue. As far as water I can't imagine an instance where there would be enough water clinging to the wall of the pipe for long enough to cause a problem before the arch rusted out.
I went with the double wall from the base stack all the way out. I also used a boot and really like how well they seal around the pipe, but still used a collar. Me personally I would stick with double wall.
Thanks for the thoughts! I am going to look into the appliance adapter, but also look at pricing one more piece of double walled. weigh my options.
I have a 6" single wall from a woodstove and it adapts to 6" double wall with this adapter
http://https://www.amazon.com/Selkir...07480785&psc=1 In your case you would also need a single wall adapter that selkirk also sells to go from the 6 to 8. jay
One more thought:
To cap or not to cap? That is the question!
I had a six inch stove pipe that started out with a cap, which got knocked off because it was thought that it restricted the draft too much. I am going from a 6 to an 8” pipe, and I am getting rid of two 90 deg turns and going straight up. Will putting a cap on negate the improvements I have made? Should I be worried about inhibiting the draft with a cap? If I don’t put a cap on, it will just get covered with a bucket during the off season. If I do put a cap on, what type do you recommend?
I would definitely put a cap on it. I wouldn't want any moisture getting in there at any time. The question on whether it would restrict draft has several variables including the design of the cap and the size of your evaporator. Woodstoves have far lower throughput than an evaporator so caps intended for use with them may end up restricting the draft somewhat. I used a metalbestos cap for several years before switching to a flip style cap due to concerns about restriction and sparks. I believe it made a difference but I'm not exactly sure how much. I'm guessing that lots of people use woodstove type caps and are perfectly happy with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by therealtreehugger
I would put a flip over cap that you can close when not boiling. Don’t use a Chinese style cap because it will restrict flow when you are boiling. You want good flow of smoke out your chimney for the best draft and fire.
I have used just a simple rain cap for years and do fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Chimney-Flue-...n%2C121&sr=1-8
I ordered a fixed cap but am having it made SS. I want to do this once, and not have to redo it next year. If the draft really is an issue, I will change it to a flip cap next year. but I’m crossing my fingers that overall, considering the increase in stack diameter and loss of elbows in the chimney, it will be an improvement over last year.
Wish me luck! Thanks for all the advice!