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How do people prevent wood chips from getting into your tubing system without risking bacteria infiltration? Running 3/16 tubing, want to prevent clogs from chips. Has anyone bought sterile cotton-tipped applicators to remove chips from tap holes before placing the taps?
Although not currently allowed in the States, some Canadian producers will give the hole a shot of IPA and water, with a spray bottle, to flush anything out.
Or you can use a small twig and simply push it in and twist back out. Green twigs work well as they are usually fairly “stringy” at the ends.
I have found that any small shaving will eventually plug-up a downstream fitting. You’re on the right track.
it's easiest to just break off a twig at each hole and swab it out. Takes maybe an extra 30 seconds. Actually, I usually break one off as I'm walking to the next tap and have it ready
I have tried the cotton "qtips" in a clean zip lock bag but it seems like another thing to carry, keep clean and use in the drilling procedure. If you wait until the sap is running, the hole will be cleaned quickly with good sap flow. A quick in out drilling with a good tapping bit will leave little or no shavings. I check the hole and now use a twig for the few holes that have shavings.
I wonder if anyone has ever used the aerosol canned air that is used to dust off computer keyboards.
Sticking anything into the tap hole, unless the item is sanitized between holes, is a good way to prematurely introduce bacteria into the hole and shorten it’s production lifespan.
I wonder if a small amount of distilled water from a mustard type squirt bottle would have any negative affect on the cleanliness and longevity of the tap hole.but gbeneke is right, just one more thing to carry. BAP's correct too, anything not sanatized will potential cause problems.
I like both the compressed air and DD H20 idea.
Seems compressed air would be a pain in the bush, but a squirt bottle with double distilled water would certainly be easy enough...
That said, the twig, and its "organic" tones, seems like the winner in my book!
All I've ever used if needed, is a twig from a nearby bush. Use it only on the one tap hole then toss it. As said above, most will not need cleaning if you drill in one quick motion. Hold the drill from wobbling and run the drill in and out without stopping. If using a tapping bit most will be clean holes. Don't stop the drill, just in, then out.
If you use a non tapping bit you may well have shavings left in the hole. A tapping bit has larger and faster spirals which helps remove the shavings better. The extra cost for tapping bits is worth it!
i asked about this last year , did not get any positive reply's. I may just try it this year. I rarely get chips but once in a while when I get sloppy drilling i do.Quote:
Originally Posted by heus
I'm a newbie trying to learn, but I have read about using a can of aerosol duster to clean out holes and figured I'd try it this year. I do have a proper tapping bit on the drill, but with the skinny straw on the duster can, I think you could easily blow-out the hole with just a quick spray of air; probably without even having to contact the wood/tree.
Being a nurse by trade, I’m used to seeing the sterile wrapped q tips on the long wooden shafts. I wondered if I bought a sleeve of them, & used one per tap hole if that wouldn’t keep it at lower risk for bacteria.Quote:
Originally Posted by BAP
Part of my living is made from woodworking these days and been doing it for a while now. It has taken me several years to accept the fact that not all bits are equal for removing wood chips from a bored hole.
Some bits remove chips from the hole substantially more effectively then others. The sharpness of the tip has something to do with that but just recently I lost or had stolen a box of original Craftsman drill bits passed on to me by my father, that were in mint condition. I noticed that the bits had an outstanding ability to hold and remove cut/drilled wood because of the design of the helical fluting up the shaft of the bit. The fluting had a more circular cross section in it allowing the bit to better grasp and remove the wood out the flutes of the bit itself. Makes for some frustrating cleanup of the bit after the hole is drilled and perhaps that works against you sanitation wise for the next hole drilled but the design removes chips from the hole more effectively.
Additionally a dull bit or bit with dull side blades is more likely to rip wood rather then cut it as it spins through the hole, causing bigger chips that are more difficult to slide out the helical fluting of any drill bit whether it be a well designed flute or not.
Finding that old craftsman box of bits is one of my biggest problems these days. My girlfriend bought me six locator beacons for Christmas. But so far I only have locator beacons on my phone and keys. The old Craftsman drill box is next. If I ever find it.
I am not sure how the expensive Leader "tapping bit" works as I have been too cheap to buy one but the extra cost and design may well be worth it if chips in the hole are the problem of your day.
Run the drill at full speed in and out in one motion and there shouldn't be any bits left in the hole. Acknowledged that we're only using 5/16" tubing on mechanical vacuum so our fittings are less likely to get plugged up than 3/16" gravity lines.
That could work, but it's lots of wrapping and Q-Tips going to the trash, also not sure you wouldn't be just pushing chips further up into the hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by t-ciccarello
A twig acts sort of like a brush or a pick and seems to pull chips out at you withdraw it. You're still on the right track though trying to eliminate chips with 3/16 tube fittings as small as they are...
Yes this would be good sage advice. And have been using that approach for a few years now.Quote:
Originally Posted by ennismaple
But incorrect bit design of the tip and flutes and poor condition of the blades can still leave some of the flute core in the hole even when the in out in one stroke approach is taken.
The absolute answers are always in the absolute details.
Ennismaple is right, remembering to pull the drill out without letting up is key. I catch myself every now and then not paying attention. If you let off ever so slightly; you may get chips. We never used tapping bits until we tried one. Now I buy a new one every year, 2 at the most. They’re worth it.
The statementQuote:
Originally Posted by mainebackswoodssyrup
"Because you will give any chips in the flute of the bit, as it is coming out of the hole, the time and thus friction needed to grab the wall of the tap hole and be pulled back down the flute of the bit and back into the hole"
will make thorough believers out of that.