looking over last years sap report survey got me to wondering, what are the main contributors to the sugar content each year? it seems that even in the same general areas there was a large difference in the reporting.
Printable View
looking over last years sap report survey got me to wondering, what are the main contributors to the sugar content each year? it seems that even in the same general areas there was a large difference in the reporting.
Some of what controls sap sugar content (SSC) is genetic, some is environmental. Genetics play a role in dictating the maximum SSC, and most environmental factors tend to reduce the level from there. So a tree that is genetically programmed to have a max of 3% SSC will essentially never produce 4%.
Tree size and canopy position is a big factor...the more exposed the crown, the more light hits the leaves, the faster the photosynthetic engine runs, the more sugar is made and in the sap. Big dominant trees and open-grown trees tend to have the highest SSC.
Time of season is important. In fall and winter, SSC tends to be low. In the spring it peaks, then falls off.
Several studies have shown that nutrition is important. Again, it's a matter of the photosynthetic engine running well. Good nutrition is like high octane fuel.
Then there is the matter of weather/climate/biological stresses. All are important, and as mentioned, if not optimal, tend to drive SSC downward. The relationships are not especially strong, but they are detectible. We have a nearly 40 yr record of SSC at PMRC, and have assembled a large dataset of different variables we think could affect SSC. I've spoken on it a few times at various meetings, but no PPT or video is available yet. Typically things like adequate moisture in the fall, winter and spring are good. Drought and delayed fall/winter cool temperatures are not good. More to come as we dig deeper into the data.
thanks Dr. Tim.
i always understood the tree size and canopy played a large roll, but i guese there are a lot of other factors that we just don't have that much more control over that matters.
i also now know why some of my trees i tap have never produced, genetics, it just not in their genes.
Is there a difference in sugar maples from different areas? As in VT, vs. CT, vs. WI, ??? does elevation make a difference? I know there are really too many variables to scientifically compare, no two maples are the same, but I hear a lot about ssc in VT being higher than southern CT (where I am). Although most of my trees have been in wooded areas and have smaller canopies, and last I checked, ssc = 1.5-2.0 brix, I will be expanding to include maples with more space and canopies this year, and hope they have a higher ssc.
Genetics play a big part, but canopy likely has more of an influence on SSC.
All I know is I see these reports of 2.5-3% and higher. Most years I average 1.5-1.6% and occasionally see a few days of 2%, if I ever saw anything over 2% I might faint or look for an empty sugar bag .....surely someone would be messing with me. I hope Those who have 2.5% and higher realize how blessed they are.
Great question.It seems hot sunny weather in the summer should produce best.I bought a sap hydrometer
and can hardly wait to check this year..one maple in particular that stands alone in my neighbours front yard.It is a
solid six feet across and has a canopy bigger than the farm house.I only put 2 taps in it each year.I have taken over
12 gallons of sap from this tree in one day. Two - 3 gallon pails overflowing at noon and again at 6 pm on one occasion.
My neighbour wants me to put in 8 or 10 taps but i don't want to harm this tree in any way, shape or form and use 1/4" taps.
Buckeye - I am in the same boat as you with ssc!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by buckeye gold
I'm 90% reds with a few sugars on the roadside of our property. We have a stand of sugars behind my work we tap but every tree is new to my wife and I. We are hoping the sugars make up the difference this year. But our woods are crowded and need thinning. We hope to at least see 2% as a high
You should switch out those 3 gallon pails to five gallon buckets.
how big are the trees? make sure when you start the thinning process to go slow allowing time for the trees to take hold where the others were removed before proceeding with more removal in the same general area this allows the root systems to take hold better.
Our trees are most between 15-20 inches in diameter with a few 36"+. Our thinning will be a very long process , as I'm just starting with cleaning up dead stuff now and will only thin out a few here and there as I need more wood for the next year.
4 Paws sounds like a nice woodlot. Have lots of fun and enjoy yourself. I'll bet soon you'll be thinking about getting the high output pans for that corsair arch after you run the continuous pan, and increasing your tap count.
We will definitely be upping our tap count in the future as our property is primarily maples so 100+ taps per acre is a easy feat. So yes we will be looking into the high output pan setup on the next few years. Do you use a r.o Pdiamond?
I do not have an RO machine. I boil straight sap. My little 2 x 4 does around 40 to 50 gph keeping the fire fed. Your 2 x 6 will kick some butt with the high output pans. This year I am going to try something different with the fire wood. Start with wrist size, then when it gets rock'in, go a little bigger to see if I can get away without having to fire so often.
40-50 gph is extremely impressive from your 2x4. You should easily be able to keep up with your 100 taps this year. Now you have me looking into new pans next year. My wife is going to kill me 😂
I do this and I can't see it hurts my efficiency very much if any. It does save some loadingQuote:
Start with wrist size, then when it gets rock'in, go a little bigger to see if I can get away without having to fire so often.
Nah. Just say honey I can trade in the old pan and just think what we can do with the new ones. My suggestion. I prefer the raised flue rear pan, and when you get float boxes get the sight glasses. Also the simplicity auto draw off is another nice addition. I mention these only because if you are going to get the equipment get what you want all at once. You may say Well I can add that later, it never happens. They have a very good leasing program thru North Star Leasing. When you talk with smoky Lake ask Angela about it. Let me know how your season goes.
Buckeye,
How much time in between would you estimate you need to fire using the slightly larger blocks?
gosh pdiamond I never really timed the difference, I'm guessing I can wait an extra 3-5 minutes. I don't do this until the fire is raging and a bed of coals is established
Okay thanks Buckeye