Very Simple Sap Lines

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Originally Posted by Swingpure

I actually walked the lines today, and I by passed some lower trees to make sure I had the “crux”. One of the two lines finishing off with an 80’ uninterrupted stretch at 35° slope and the second line finishes off with a 125’ uninterrupted stretch at a 25° slope. This line actually runs by a viable tree, but the tree is only 30’ from the collection area. I will put a bucket on that tree.

Both collection buckets are side by side and the wire that holds the end of the line, will hold both line ends.

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mm

From experience ...

At about mid season, 3 seasons ago my highest potential natural vacuum run had 9 taps on it. 6 taps up high then 65 feet to 3 more taps just before the collection barrel. After I removed the three taps and put those 3 taps on a individual line into the barrel and put the upper six taps on a undisturbed run into the collection barrel. Within hours the 6 taps were flowing better then they ever had before, even with the 9 taps on them. In addition the three tap line was then flowing sap at a decent rate but not even half as fast as the 6 tap run which obviously was in a natural vacuum state of obvious benefit.

Last year I had 3 on one line into the collection and 7 on another line into the collection. The 7 generated 17 inches at peak and was very close to a constant stream at peak flow on 5/16.

Now keep in mind ... I use 5/16 for whatever I do and get. If you use 3/16 results might be different I suppose.

I respect everybody's opinion on here, but about 5 years ago a humble soft spoken lady who worked at the Rutland Leader store and ran/runs a decent size commercial operation in Benson told me that "I think" you need at least 75 feet of good sloping final run after your "LAST" tap to generate decent vacuum on 5/16 and of course the appropriate number of taps and sap flow above it.

After lots of stumbling and perhaps not wanting to take a woman's word for it mainly cause I only had the 70/75 feet of final run on one of my runs, that piece of taping info I received from her has been VERY consistent with my experience in my gravity runs and not just this one.

Unfortunately the Rutland Leader store is no more.

With that said Dr. Tim Perkins does have me convinced that mathematically/physically speaking it should not matter. As he describes it and now think of it for what it is.

But .... my real world experience does not seem to back it up. Simply put the lower taps "seem" to reduce effectiveness for me. Both in forming vacuum on the upper taps and the efficiency of the lower taps.

Like everybody else on this planet it is very possible I am mistaken.

Rob

Today I paced off the planned lines, just to make sure I had enough tubing. At first I allowed three foot for each step, but then realized a large pace is three feet, but my steps were closer to two feet. So I grabbed a 100’ tape and then accurately measured off one line. It was very close to the 2’ per step measurement.

That left me confident I had lots of tubing, so for my first time, I made the drops for the two lines. I likely will run a third and a short fourth line, just for the purpose of consolidating collection points and do not expect much natural vacuum bonus from them.

The one handed tool was cool to use for the first time. I can see now how important of a tool it is. Likely in three to four weeks I will be running the lines.

On one of the lines, I wanted to add a 22” diameter healthy tree, but was a little concerned about the zig it put in the line direction, but more concerned if I would still be able to maintain a good slope.

I used twine to simulate the tubing and ran 150’ of it connecting to some of the trees on the line. I also used a line level to make sure there was a good drop. I had good slope for all of the trees. I painted a small mark on the tree where the twine crossed it. I also took advantage of the opportunity and cleared away any obstructions in the actual path of the twine and eventually tubing. I left today’s twine up. The highest I had to go up on any tree was 5’ and most were 4’ from the ground.

Tomorrow I will run more twine, to help me identify any obstructions along the path of the other lines, so that when it comes to run the actual tubing in about a month’s time, it will go as smoothly as possible.

Edit: I put twine on the other line this evening and finished putting twine on the first line. There was one large tree I though I might want to add to the first line, but by doing this exercise, I was able to eliminate it because of elevation and it was too big of a zag.

As mentioned in the previous post, when I ran my practice twine line, I zigged to a 22” tree and was able to maintain my slope. It haunts me though, that I am breaking a cardinal rule of not going basically straight with only some S turns.

The 22” tree is a little difficult to get to as I plow a lot of snow from my driveway between the road and the tree and would continue up to do so anytime it snowed. If I could incorporate it into the line it would save time and effort. However it would not be worth it if it sabotaged the line.

What would you recommend, skip the tree or incorporate it?

The yellow lines are the straighter route skipping the tree and the red lines are going to the tree in question and to the next tree.The x’s are the location of some of the trees in the line.

Attachment 22522

If you have adequate slope it will be just fine.

Thanks.

I guess to get good vacumn, one the keys is a significant drop, especially at the end. 3 of my lines will have a 30 foot overall drop with a long run at the end. The fourth line will have a steady drop the whole way, but will only be an overall drop of maybe 15’ with 12 taps. It will have a long run at the end of 75’ with about a five foot overall drop.

Although I will not see high vacuum numbers, should I still get as much as with buckets and maybe a little more, with the bonus of one collection point?

You will get more on this tubing setup than you would on buckets.