It's too bad that you don't live closer to NH. I would gladly show you mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnallin
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It's too bad that you don't live closer to NH. I would gladly show you mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnallin
We have defiantly gained evaporation rate with bubbler system. On our 3x12 we where doing 150gals an hour. Normally we are around 100-110.
Would love to see some pics of it in your setup. That will give me some ideas for this off season 😉Quote:
Originally Posted by S.S.S
Attachment 18390Attachment 18391Lighest syrup ever made with bubbler system. Pic is with tubes in my syrup pans.
Very nice! I've experienced the same thing. Samples from last years boils.Quote:
Originally Posted by S.S.S
Attachment 18392
Was wondering if a bubbler system would be of any help on a flat pan
I have one in my front pan which is a flat pan with dividers and it does help. It keeps the foam knocked down and it keeps the bottom of the pan cleaner.
Thanks Russ think I will try and make one out of half inch copper pipe would a bathroom exhaust fan make it work or do I need something with more power. I find when I get the niter on the bottom of the pan it will boil over easier, if its clean it doesn't do it near as bad, and you don't have to cut back on the fire. Just trying to make life easier is all lol
You're going to need a high pressure blower, a bathroom exhaust fan won't do it. I'm using a small shop vac but any vacuum cleaner with an exhaust port will work.
Thanks for your help now I just have to wait for next yr to see how it works:lol:
Just curious if you tried this with birch sap? I think it's a great idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by moeh1
I really think this would be great for birch sap, especially increasing evaporation rate. I have a modification ready for my heating oil arch that the pan will sit on top of firebrick to prevent burning.
I think I will use this manifold to keep things simple and less expensive.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Ch...xoCDXEQAvD_BwE
This is the bubbler I made for my flat pan.
Attachment 20019
Attachment 20020
Attachment 20083here is proof that the bubbles make a huge difference, I couldn't figure out why we weren't making golden in the beginning of the season, well you can see what day I found the holes in the tubes plugged with niter🤐, top left to bottom right was our season--
Link doesn't seem to work but it got me close enough. Great idea on the premade manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by billschi
I like the idea of the shop vac but how are you using these to blow air since they are suckers of air?
Most shop vacs now are made so you can put your hose on the exhaust port and use them as a blower.
Most small wet dry vacs are reversible or you can buy this spray painter on eBay and cannibalize the blower.Quote:
Originally Posted by BAP
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F332855308033
I use the outlet for the vacuum as the blower. The suction side is the air inlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mol1jb
If I were to take a line off of my AOF/AUF blower to power a bubbler would to be necessary to put a filter on that line? Using a bouncy house blower for AOF. Blower is in the attic of kitchen.
As long as the air you're pumping into your syrup is free of any fumes or dust etc, you should be fine. You probably won't know until you try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mol1jb
I'm not sure what Russ at Red Roof Maples uses, he has certainly paved the way on this forum regarding bubblers, and I'm sure he makes great syrup.
The H20 unit has 3 filters to clean the air. Outermost is a standard pleated filter much like on a small furnace; the inner two are charcoal.
My thoughts are that if you're certain the air is clean and you're not adding any nasty stuff, you should be fine. On the other hand; H20 is selling a product with little control over the installation so they went the extra mile with filters and all stainless construction.
As this is one piece of equipment that could really mess things up; for me going with a professionally made commercial unit was a no-brainer!
It's not like making your own arch or an RO, we're talking about injecting air directly into your finished product.
As a side benefit, I can Tee off the main air pipe and add AOF or AUF at a later date. The blower is that powerful.
I'm not sure if a bouncy house blower will make enough pressure. I tried using a squirrel cage blower and it moved a lot of air but didn't make enough pressure to force the air through the bubbler tubes. I use a small shop vac that I bought just for the bubbler and it works good.Quote:
Originally Posted by mol1jb
What do you think about making the manifold out of pvc and the take offs copper. That would help keep the cost down and make it easier to build for someone like me with no soldering experience
The manifold would melt if you made it out of pvc. My pvc supply pipes which are outside of the pans are warped from the heat that rises off of the side of the arch and pans.Quote:
Originally Posted by mol1jb
Soldering isn't that hard to do. Just make sure everything is clean and dry before you start. Start with something easy, like an elbow or tee and by the time you get to the difficult stuff you'll be a pro.
Thanks for the infoQuote:
Originally Posted by Russell Lampron
Would 3/4 inch be large enough for the manifold? I would like to do 1/2 inch branches. Larger than 3/4 makes fittings expensive.
I made mine with 1" manifolds and 3/8" tubes. The 1" manifolds transition into a 1 1/2" PVC air supply pipe. I think 3/4" manifolds will work but think that 1/2" tubes, if that's what you're referring to as branches, will be too big.Quote:
Originally Posted by mol1jb
Question - What distance between holes drilled in the arms?
I drilled mine an inch apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by mol1jb
Russ,
I just want to thank you for starting the bubbler thread and for answering all the questions over the years. Don't know how you had time to boil. I just built one and with the big help of a plumbing friend, I think it is going to work.
I bought an 3/4 manifold with eight 1/2' outlets that fit my 2x4 SL evaporator for $15 on Ebay. Just testing with water, my boil rate was much higher. None of this would have happened without your original post and answers.
Thank you,
Doc
We’ll see how it goes today. Have boiled about 4-5 times so far with the new bubbler system in the flue pan,couldn’t see much bubbling action going on,still lots of nitre and syrup not getting lighter. Had it “ teed in “ to the pipe feeding the steam away,not enough air I guess. Disconnected the pipe and hooked up to the shop vac,,voila,looks like the pan is boiling with no fire. Will permanently plumb it outside after the season if it works how I think it should.
Well I thought that I had exhausted most of the projects I wanted to try. Looks like we've just added another summertime project to try and make something other than dark syrup. Thanks Russ!
Craigwade,made all golden syrup from start to finish last year with the bubbler,turned it off after first 100 gallons made to make darker grades for customers requesting that instead. Now I have a selection of grades to sell for this yearQuote:
Originally Posted by craigwade2005
Adding this to my list as well :) Whipping up an auto-draw and a bubbler should be fun. This thread is a great resource!Quote:
Originally Posted by craigwade2005
Reviving an old thread with a question: Could the brass fittings used to make the manifolds be the Porta Press type vs. soldered fittings?
Hi @DMF, did the porta press fittings work for you? Which ones did you end up using? Thanks