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I just put together one of these systems and have a couple small leaks. I’m just wondering how to empty the system of water, can I just run the pump without anything on the input side to push it all out or do I just disconnect the fitting and let it spill out?
JDirksen: I posted this a couple of weeks ago on cleaning:
The soap I am using is from CDL - https://webstore.cdlusa.net/en/Catal...=022009001&ps= this is an organic product and was under 20 dollars so that is why I selected it.
The flushing and cleaning process I have been using this year:
After each time I run the RO I take 5 gallons of permeate in a bucket (1.5 - 2 gallons I put in a pot and bring to a boil then add it to the cold stuff - this gives me a temperature between 90-100 degrees *** don't go over 100 degrees) then run it through the system with the needle valve wide open and both the permeate and concentrate lines back in the bucket of warm water. I let this recirculate for at least an hour.
For cleaning - I have been doing after every two or three days of operation (this will increase as the season goes on with more bacteria building in the system) I take the same warm permeate but add the RO soap to it until it reaches a PH of 11. Then recirculate as above for 1-2 hours. It is amazing how this stuff works. For me I needed to about 1 level tablespoon of soap powder to achieve that level. So the 1kg container will be enough for me to do like 40 or 50 washings. Then I flush with permeate for at least an hour - this time letting it flow down the drain. If you don't have access to the soap right now I have heard back from some other folks who are using similar systems using 2 or 3 quarts of hydrogen peroxide instead and getting good results as well.
I have processed 400 gallons of sap this week and it seems to be working well. Last season as things went along the performance of my membranes deteriorated which is why I am trying the ro soap this year. I have also checked with the manufacturer specs on my membranes and 11ph is the max level.
I will be posting everything to my website at the end of the season to make sure it all works out - but there seems to be enough interest to put out what I am trying now.
MapleTime: you can shut off the feed and let the pump push what it can - only takes a few seconds but there is really no way of purging the system without letting it drain out of each housing.
Ok thanks.
I have a question about membrane storage. I know that they can't freeze and I don't have a heated sugar house so I'm trying to think of options. I've built a system with three 400gpd membranes and one thought I has is can I remove the membranes from the housings and place them in a plastic bag and put them in my refrigerator to keep them cool and moist and just leave the rest of the system at the sugar house or do I need to bring the whole thing in? I can do that but I'm just wondering about options.
ok, I suspect my shurflo 4008 isn;t robust enough for hodors model. I could only manage 10 PSI on my initial try. I didn;t even bother to open the needle valve up. I ordered an Aquatec for this. I ran about a gallon thru the membranes. DO I need to clean them before my next attempt?
Also, I was just sucking from a 5 gal bucket for my testing.....do I need any kind of head tank pressure?
Eustis:
Did you test with sap or water? If just water you won't build that much pressure. Yes you want to flush the membranes for about a half an hour or more to get them wet and to flush any funk that may be on them - even though they are new. Sorry I have never used any other pump can't help with that.
Dave:
I have heard of some people making a box out of 2" insulation foam board and putting an old style light bulb inside and leave it on. It will generate enough heat to keep from freezing from what I have been told. I would not let the membranes, water filter housing or pump freeze.
I tested with sap..prolly 1.5%. Another thing..I am unclear on the position of the needle valve at the start of things...all the way open or all the way closed until the pressure buillds?
Needle valve should be open when you start and then start closing this should build pressure and force things through the membranes.