size of feedline

[thenewguy]

hi, just getting my 2.5x10 getting ready to go. Wondering what size of a feed line i should use from my feed tank to float box, it needs to be about 5-6 long. on my old previous 2 x 8 i ran a 3/4 line which seemed to work o.k. thanks for the help!

[bees1st]

on my 3x10 I run a 1" supply line from the tank.

[danno]

On my 3x10, which maxes out at about 90 gph, I have 3/4" line. It keeps up. I only run into problems with vapor lock on the pre-heater, but that's not caused by the 3/4".

[brookledge]

If it is convenient I'd go with the 1". My 3X12 is fed with a 1 1/2" line.
Keith

[red maples]

I only have a 2x6 but I used a 3/4 last year but had problems it didn't keep up for what ever reason. but my float box is set up for 1 1/4" so thats what I am going to use this year.

[maple flats]

Bigger is likely better, but on my 3x8 I use 3/4" and never had a problem (yet).

[Brent]

The other big factor in the size of the feed line is the height of the tank above the float box. If it's only a couple of feet, then you should have a bigger line. If its 8-10 feet you'll get better pressure and might get away with a tiny line. But really, hose is cheap. Go for one inch. If you need to clean it you can pull a rag through easier too.

[802maple]

The main reason for a larger line to feed the evaporator isn't if it will keep up during a regular boil but if you all of a sudden need to feed it, because it got low and you need to fill it fast. You always have to plan for the worst. you should feed it with the same size line as the company has on your float entrance.

[DrTimPerkins]

You always have to plan for the worst. you should feed it with the same size line as the company has on your float entrance.

You might also consider adding a line that tees off your feed line but goes directly above your syrup pan (front pan) and ends with a valve. This is the spot where folks often get into trouble, so having an emergency dump line is helpful. Put it on a flexible hose so you can direct the stream to all parts of the front pan. Alternatively, keep a bucket of water or sap close by. Or do both.

[Brent]

Now those last 2 posts have some real value. Thanks guys.

These will keep the blood pressure down.

[802maple]

You might also consider adding a line that tees off your feed line but goes directly above your syrup pan (front pan) and ends with a valve. This is the spot where folks often get into trouble, so having an emergency dump line is helpful. Put it on a flexible hose so you can direct the stream to all parts of the front pan. Alternatively, keep a bucket of water or sap close by. Or do both.

Though this a very good idea, if you have a preheater I would T-in after the sap has gone thru it as adding cold sap to a heated pan can distort it more than a bad burn. If you don't have a preheater I would always keep a pail of sap over the pans so as to heat it, if you are going to try this.

[red maples]

I like that line over the syrup pan idea. Since I am re plumbing it this year I will add one in. I always keep that bucket of raw sap handy for emergencies and for when people come to visit because I like to talk when people stop by, as we all do, and burned a little syrup last year:mad: SO when ever I see some one coming down the driveway I add a little raw sap and I am fine!!! and my head tank is only about 3 feet above the float box so thats why I need to go with the bigger feedline!!!

[DrTimPerkins]

Though this a very good idea, if you have a preheater I would T-in after the sap has gone thru it as adding cold sap to a heated pan can distort it more than a bad burn. If you don't have a preheater I would always keep a pail of sap over the pans so as to heat it, if you are going to try this.

True. I wouldn't suggest that anyone dump a full pail of cold sap in one spot of a pan...that's why you need the flexible hose so you can direct it all around in a spray-like fashion. Conversely, you can empty the pail across several of the partitions to achieve the same effect.

This is only to be used in an emergency. Whether more distortion is going to occur from overheating or rapid cooling is hard to say, and it isn't like you've got a lot of time to stand there and ponder the question. Either way it's going to make for an unhappy day.

The advantage of having the emergency dump BEFORE the preheater is that there is less that can go wrong. If the emergency pipe comes straight out of the feed tank, especially if you're using clear (milk-hose) so you can tell immediately if there is a problem with the sap supply from the tank (better grab the bucket), or if the inadequate supply of sap is due to a float that stuck-closed or some other obstruction somewhere. If you tee off AFTER the preheater and the blockage happens in the preheater or in the preheater float, then the emergency line dump isn't going to do you any good. In our case, we use a feed line from the tank that is clear, and it tees off into the front pan before it gets to any float or possible obstruction. The line is long enough so it can be directed anywhere in the front pan, float-box, or drawoff.

Finally...if you have a soldered pan....and it is on the verge of burning up and the solder starting to melt...I'd hit it with the cold sap right away and hope for the best.

[802maple]

We can go tit for tat on this all day, as long as we are using all kinds of scenarios what if the tank gets plugged. The truth is if you pay attention there is no need for any of this. I have made syrup for nearly 40 years and I have never had a pail of sap or an emergency system to dump sap in the front pan and I have never needed one for that matter. But if it makes a sugarmaker feel better than by all means use it.

[Slatebelt*Pa*Tapper]

My Lil maple pro calls for a 1" line..using clear 1" tubing for the line just to make sure i can see the sap coming in,., our head tanks will be outside of the shack. will be doing periodic checks on the tanks outside until i get a clear translucent one installed inside the shack up in the rafters next summer

but for this first year i will keep a 5 gallon jug of fresh sap in the shack encase something goes wrong and i need to cool things down fast.. because I'm new to this type of setup..

[shane hickey]

I think that you'll like that set up, I have a 1 inch water line that dumps into the float box as a fail safe, never had to use it yet, But when you run out of sap, pans get very expensive.

[Bucket Head]

I have a separate line from the feed tank to my flue pan in case of a problem. I also have an emergency set-up for the front too. I have made up feed lines that go from the flue outlets to the sides of my syrup pan. This way I can flood the syrup partition on the front pan using that sides flue outlet since the float and incoming sap is on the other side at that time. I switch everything when I "reverse" things. Of course this style "emergency plan" will only work with a raised flue rig.

For simplicity, for either a raised flue or drop, soldered or welded, veteran sugarmaker or novice, individual lines to each pan from your feed tank would be cheap insurance.

Many things can go wrong during the course of a season, but there is nothing worse than burned syrup and a scorched pan.

[Nick7]

I agree with Dr.Tim,no matter I have been boiling for over 40 years,I still keep an emergency pail of sap sitting beside the pans while everything is boiling,if I don't need it that's fine,but once in a blue moon it has saved the pans when a float sticks,larger than normal batch of syrup,etc.

[Chad802]

I agree to, better safe than $$$.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

hi, just getting my 2.5x10 getting ready to go. Wondering what size of a feed line i should use from my feed tank to float box, it needs to be about 5-6 long. on my old previous 2 x 8 i ran a 3/4 line which seemed to work o.k. thanks for the help!

One thing I could mention that might help a few out is that if are running clear flexible line into a copper fitting around the evaporator or preheater is that 1.25" copper fittings OD is the same as the ID of a 1.5" flexible pipe. I run a 1.5" inch from my 320 gallon SS Lappierre head tank as it has a 1.5" fitting coming out of it and just before I connect to my preheater from the flexible pipe to the copper, I use a 1.25" copper reducer to 3/4" and the 1.25" end of the copper reducer fits perfect inside the pipe with a nice snug fit. Probably work the same for other sizes too, never tried it but makes a good adapter from flexible line to copper.

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

I used an 1-1/4 line. Once it comes into the garage I T at the float and then continued to left side to go through preheater. I have a breather on the preheater just in case it still vapor lock but I can dump cold sap into float by opening ball valve. Think there might be a couple pics u can take a look at.