Auto drawoff valves

[Haynes Forest Products]

This year Im going with a Marcland full feature unit. I will have a auto shut down relay for added protection so I can go farther from the sap shack and "MULTI TASK" :emb: What is a good high limit shut down temp 3 degrees over before shut down or higher?

With three pans I hope to keep the bottom of the pans shinny BUT does flaking niter cause problems with the selonoid valves? I got a 1" SS ECHO TECK from ebay. I plan on a ball valve drain between the pan and selonoid valve and a 1/2" valve after the elec valve as a way to regulate down the flow for smaller longer drawoffs. What are others doing?

[lew]

Haynes,

Are you able to bypass the auto shutdown? Sometimes when I am "multi-tasking" before my first draw my temperature might go higher than 3 degrees above syrup. Something to consider.

The drain valve between the solenoid and the pan is a good idea for when the above happens. keep it a 1 inch full port valve just in case you want to dump a bunch of syrup in a hurry.


The 1/2 inch valve after the solenoid concerns me. Even if you keep your pans shiny, sugar sand can and will plug your solenoid valve. If you want to neck down after the solenoid, use a full port 1" balve and just crack it open to the desired opening. Keep it straight in line with the solenoid and hopefully with the pan. This way when things get plugged up, you can open up the 1" valve all the way and push a piece of no. 9 wire through to open it up without shutting down the evaporator. At least if you are using a solenoid cvalve that will allow this. I have seen some that don't, mine does. I think mine is a zone valve that opens similar to a ball valve, but has a relatively small opening, maybe 1/2" compared to the 1" pipe it is mounted in.

Just my 2 cents.

[sapsucker78]

One thing I like to do is put a camlock or some type of quick connection between your pan and the solenoid valve. This way you can take your valve off and flush with hot water between boils. The extra manual draw off valve is a good way to go too, if your auto valve sticks or the power goes off.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Im thinking the full feature unit has a switch to turn on and off the alarm/shut down option. To shut down the unit Im installing a relay that opens when the alarm would sound. All my fittings are cam lock so its easy to plug the port and remove the valves. Now I will need to remember to shut down the auto draw when I dump the bucket.............or do like others do and pump the bucket to the finisher.

[Brent]

I've been playing with the plumbing of an auto-draw off and one issue that concerns me a lot is the phenomena that
s*&t happens, more often than not.

As I tried different build ups of valves and fittings the whole thing kept getting longer and longer, sticking out out from the pan farther and farther. So far I've been lucky, but I fear the day will come that a coat pocket, a bucket, or whatever will snag the outside end and with all the leverage it will bend the pan all to hell.

I found I wanted a shut off between the auto-valve so I could stop the flow regardless of power on / off and cleaning. Then I wanted to be able to manually make draw offs the old way, if the power or auto draw-off failed.
So that meant putting in a T fitting with the auto valve off one side and a manual valve off the other. This year I think I'm going to put a slide vavle on between the pan and the T instead of a ball valve, just because it takes half the space.

I like the idea of cam-connects, but again they add a lot of length too.

Maybe we should weld a doubler on the outside of the pan to stiffen it.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Brent I have had the ball valve lever opened by a coat:mad: I also dont like alot of fittings so On my set up now the valve handle goes up or 1/4 turn down for open and its on the side not the front:) If I rip one more shirt walking past the float box I just have to start wareing a tank top:o

With my cam lock I had the nipple weded on it to save space PLUS I drilled the hole down low for total dranage on the pan. I will do the same with the new set up but will weld in a SS T that will have male threads instead of female threads and the close nipples.

[Haynes Forest Products]

OK so I recieved my Marcland auto drawoff and the only instructions are from the controler manf. I would expect better instructions pertaining to Maple syrup production. Maybe a few helpful hints as to what works best for syrup production:mad:

[Tmeeeh]

Call Bob Crooks at Marcland. He'll walk you through how to use it. In general use a hydrometer to determine your draw off temp. Put a ball valve between your syrup pan and the auto draw and only partially open it. Also another ball valve on a tee so you can bypass the auto draw and draw manually. That way the syrup comes off slowly and minimizes surges in the gradient in the evaporator. You want long draws with the pan temperature staying near syrup. Check frequently with a hydrometer and make adjustments to the auto draw temperature in small increments. It takes a little while to get the hang of it and requires monitoring but is like having another person helping in the sugarhouse.

[Brent]

Get used to it.

The entire maple syrup industry, with very few exceptions, seems to think that none of us need any directions for their products.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Brent once again you right on. I havent gotten a set of instructions on anything I spend $1000,00 or more. Bernard releaser..........nope! Filter press...................nope! 3x10 evaporator..................nope! auto drawoff............................tossed in the manf. teck sheet:confused: I have found more instructions on the handle of a screwdriver:rolleyes:

[brookledge]

I got excellent insructions with my leader products maybe that is why they sometimes cost more than other manufactuers. I also got a nice set of instructions from CDL for my RO even though it is co written in french. my marcland came with hand drawn and photocopied instructions,enough to get me by but I'm not sure if Bob stopped doing that
Keith

[Thad Blaisdell]

Get used to it.

The entire maple syrup industry, with very few exceptions, seems to think that none of us need any directions for their products.


We are men.... who uses instructions. The only time we ask for help is after we have screwed it up.

[DrTimPerkins]

The entire maple syrup industry, with very few exceptions, seems to think that none of us need any directions for their products.

The maple industry is far better in this regard than it was 20 yrs ago. Most of the major equipment manufacturers do have instructions for at last some of their equipment...typically ROs and evaporators/major accessories do have some instructions. It may be printed, or sometimes online, and you may have to look for or ask for it, but frequently it is available. Seems like instructions for pumps and releasers might be lagging a little bit behind, but getting better.

The Springtech Elite 1000 RO we got last year came with both a booklet and an instructional DVD. I've seen good instructional materials from the major equipment manufacturers for most of the other ROs out there as well. A few examples:

http://www.cdl-dallaire.com/?module=document&action=view&id=17
http://www.leaderevaporator.com/t-Maple-Syrup-Sugarmaker-Information-Center.aspx
http://www.sugaringequipment.elapierre.com/default_en.asp?no=114
(note, this is not a comprehensive list, just some examples)

Best thing to do is to ask for a copy of the installation/instruction manual BEFORE you buy and see what the salesperson says.

Good instructions are never a substitute for having a dealer nearby if things go wrong, you need repairs, or your installation is non-typical.

[BryanEx]

I have found more instructions on the handle of a screwdriver:rolleyes:

LOL... "Made in China, Always wear safety goggles, May contain nuts, Not warranted against improper use, Righty-tighty... Lefty-loosey, Do not use as a butter knife"?