View Full Version : Masonary arch for evaporator?
ibby458
09-03-2010, 12:55 PM
While I'm still mostly laid up, I'm doing a lot of thinking. (Sure to get me in trouble!)
While planning out a new sugarhouse, I've been reading thru my resource material. An old picture of a brick arch caught my attention.
Sinch I need a new arch as well as a new sugarhouse, I wonder if masonary is still a viable option.
I'm thinking a doubled brick outside wall, 2+ inches arch board, then firebrick next to the fire. A few SS ties between the walls would keep everything together. I have some 2x2x.25 SS angle that I can use as a top rail to set the pans on. (plus around door and stack openings) I don't think the extra wall thickness sticking out from the pans would be a problem. Just gotta extend the draw off pipes.
Walls that thick also make it simple to install SS pipes to inject air over the fire.
Is there something I'm missing? - Any drawbacks to this plan?
C.Wilcox
09-03-2010, 01:19 PM
There are several threads here that deal with exactly what you're thinking about doing. Sounds like you're mostly looking at something like this http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?t=7334&highlight=keith+talbot
ibby458
09-05-2010, 04:37 AM
There are several threads here that deal with exactly what you're thinking about doing. Sounds like you're mostly looking at something like this http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?t=7334&highlight=keith+talbot
Thanks for the link! That IS about what I had in mind. Any updates on how it's working? ( My connection is so bad I can't do much searching myself) Thanks!
C.Wilcox
09-05-2010, 09:59 AM
No problem ibby. For an update I'd try PM'ing "Sugarmaker" and see if he can give you more info. There are also other threads here that talk about masonry (concrete block) arches which are a little less expensive and not quite as pretty, but work just as well.
http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?t=6996&highlight=concrete+block
http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?t=8764&highlight=cement+block
http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?t=6770&highlight=cement+block
I would also recommend a search for threads by "Valleyman" as he posted quite a bit of information about his cement block evaporator project.
Sugarmaker
09-07-2010, 08:56 PM
Ibby458,
Brief Update on the Keith Talbot brick arch.
he did use red brick on the outside and fire brick on the inside and poured some heat resistant material between them.
Keith had a problem this spring with the frost heaving the pad of cement and buckling the brick arch, maybe about 1/2 inch.
He is doing two things to relieve this for the 2011 season.
he has added additional drainage on the upper side of his sugar house to get the water from going under the slab.
Second he is fabricating a stainless rail system that he plans to use to level the pans if the arch does move.
I think this can be traced back to the need for a foundation below the frost line for almost any type of evaporator if in a frost prone area.
Keith made several gallons of nice syrup. and plans to go at it again next year. He is looking for a pan since his warped really bad for some reason.
BTW a speedy recovery to you.
Regards,
Chris
markct
09-12-2010, 09:28 PM
"I think this can be traced back to the need for a foundation below the frost line for almost any type of evaporator if in a frost prone area."
there is very little call for evaporators in areas not prone to frost i believe.....:)
Sugarmaker
09-13-2010, 09:08 AM
Markct,
Agreed that we cant make syrup with out frost.:) But some areas don't get deep frost penetration as we do. I know there are many evaporators set on slab floors. If the drainage and soil conditions are such, then they may never have a problem with concrete heaving.
In our area with deep frost possible and wet clay soil I would recommend a foundation under the evaporator if possible. Or a good way to level the evaporator if there is a frost problem.
Regards,
Chris
PerryW
09-13-2010, 12:27 PM
Laying some rigid foam insulation around the footings of your brick arch will greatly reduce the frost problems. Otherwise, your footings should extend below the maximum frost depth (three to four feet)
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