Log Cabin Sealing and Chinking advice

[SColum]

Hello,

I know its off topiv but I figured I may find some advice here. I have been building a small log cabin for fun, and now I am on to the finishing stages. My questions are, what type of stain or sealent should I use on the logs if any? Also, if any of you have chinked a log cabin what should I use? Oh and I'm only 17 so I want to spend as little money as possible, thats why I'm considering not even staining the logs just chinking. Thanks

[lastwoodsman]

Hello,

I know its off topiv but I figured I may find some advice here. I have been building a small log cabin for fun, and now I am on to the finishing stages. My questions are, what type of stain or sealent should I use on the logs if any? Also, if any of you have chinked a log cabin what should I use? Oh and I'm only 17 so I want to spend as little money as possible, thats why I'm considering not even staining the logs just chinking. Thanks

If it is just a hunting and week-end shack like mine I over 30 years have replaced the fiberglass insluation beteen the logs with the new spray foam. Seals it up tight. looks pretty good as well.
Mine has been up for all those years with no sealer. But I have sprayed a long lasting (6month_ insecticide to stop the small borers.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/cyonara-97-oz-p-428.html

woodsman

[maple flats]

I would suggest a clear stain and spray it on if possible. Clear stains do not peal and need scraping before re-doing in the future. As for chinking, the spray foam is a good idea if you can afford it. Remember, it expands a lot so experiment to see how little you need after it fully expands. The expansion continues for a few hours but most is in the first hour. Also, a month after it is installed a compatable paint will make it last much longer but even without you will get several years.

[mapleack]

Check out http://www.permachink.com/ I've heard alot of good things about the permachink gap sealing product. Don't know about their stains though. If you can afford it I'd recommend Cabot brand stains. Nice cabin by the way!

[steve J]

Northeastern log homes sells weather seal stain and for an extra charge they add a bug repellant to the stain. I have had good luck with this stain and the bug repellant has work well on the logs. I think spray foam would be the easiest way to fill the gaps.

[C.Wilcox]

Nice looking cabin! You can split small diameter trees into quarters and nail them in for chinking. Not sure if there's a name for the technique, but I've seen it done many times. Obviously it wouldn't make sense to do it unless you've got a band saw or a sawmill capable of cutting the quarters. Doing it by hand would be time prohibitive to say the least. As for staining, keep checking at the local big box store for returned cans of deck stain. They usually sell them cheap just to get them out of the store. You can always search for the same thing on craigslist. The more opaque your stain the better it will protect, but if it were me and I was hoping to do it on the cheap I would collect any color stain I could get my hands on and then when I had enough I would just mix them altogether to make a uniform shade. Do make sure they're all compatible before doing that though. DO NOT USE a varnish or any surface building product no matter whether it says it's for exterior use or not. It will only last a short while before fading, peeling, and looking generally terrible.

[3rdgen.maple]

If you want cheap and a product that works. Used motor oil.

[Haynes Forest Products]

If you want the cabin to last and you want it water tight then Permachink or Log Jam are two great products. Depending on the size of the joints will determine the cost of doing it. They do make foam roap that you can put in between the logs to insulate and take up space so you use less chinking. Both products are expensive about $150.00 for 5 gallons. what is nice about them is they will last forever and adhear to the wood and will expand and contract with the weather. I had my cabin done the old fashion way with morter on the outside but thats labor intensive with all the retention nails and screen. I had the inside done with permachink and its cool stuff. It can be applied buy trowel or grout bag. Its a latex base so its water soluble. When it dries out it is like the sidewalls of a car tire and is plyable.

I would stain it afterwards so the chink can adhere to the raw wood.

[lastwoodsman]

I did my outside of the the cabin with strips of expanded metal used for stuccoing houses and mortar mix. Has lasted over 30 years with no maintainance at all.
Again I have just a hunting shack and not a log home. Cost was the point for me at the time.

[umpwood1]

I chinked my log cabin with the baged mortar mix. I tried many mixtures and the premixed motar mix did the best and easiest job. All you have to do is get yourself some wire mesh and cut it to size. Tack it between the logs with some lath nails. Get yourself a grout bag, squeeze the mortar onto the mesh, let it sit awhile till it stiffens. Take a trowel and smooth it out. After it sets awhile, brush it to give it some texture. I placed small flat stones into my chinking to give it a differant look. I'm sure you can do it with no problems.
As far as sealant, I just spray my cabin down with Thompson's watershield every year.
Good luck,
Umpwood1

[Pete S]

Never "chinked" myself, but a builder that I worked with used a "mastic" type of chinking. He backed this material with cut slivers of the "pink" foam board.

He would cut long triangular "wedges" if you will, and press them in place holding them with an occasional roofing nail.

The "chink" would then be worked over. He did both sides as folks were living in these and it worked well. The chink came in pails and when dry would still be pliable.

I personally think the spray foam would work well BUT it may be a bit hard to control thus leaving your beautiful log structure with that "I did this myself" look. (sorry)

To seal the logs,............I would and look for something that discourages insects.

As for being cheap,.......avoid it at this point. You have a wonderful building and it would be a shame to see it rot and eaten by the "unfriendlies"!

17, or 70 nice job Dewd!

[Turtlecreek]

I live in a log home and it is the best thing ever, the maintenance isn't as bad as some may say.

My house has no chinking since it uses a young and groove design. As far as your cabin you should select a chinking that is flexable. Your logs still need to dry so they are going to shrink. Although the spray foam sounds like a really good idea it does not streach so you may be left with gaps after a year or so. I would sugest temporary chinking such as moss or fiberglass insulation for at least one year. After that I would use log jam or permachink (I use log jam) you shoul used a closed cell foam rope (aka backer rod) to fill the joints the caulk or chink over top of that. The rope is avalible from a big box store or your local hardware store. The caulk that is made for log homes will adhear to the logs and remain flexable foe ever unlike your typical latex caulk so stay away from latex.

As far as stain, there are several options. You coulée go clear, but that gives you zero uv protection. I would sugest going with a pigminted stain. There are several out there for log homes such as, permachink, wood guard and many others but are pretty salty. I like the idea of a big box store mix it would be cheaper and if it wears out you coul apply somethig better then.