Float question

[steve J]

In another thread it became apparent that I may need a float.My new unit is a 2x4 with a blower and I suspect I will boil at about 15 to 16 gallons an hour. The pre heater with this unit sits on back of evaporator above the elbow to smoke stack vs over the pan. This holds I think about 5 gallons of sap. From here I have no idea what I am doing. My thought is to have a head tank that is higher then the preheater with a feed line I can open and close to fill the pre heater? But if I use a float does that control the flow of the sap tp the pre heater or do I elimate the pre heater and have the head tank run stright to the pan?

[Tapmealot]

well generally you would just have one float in your type of setup and thats on the pan itself and not feeding into the preheater. all you would have to do is plum in yor holding tank to your preheater and it should work because as long as your pans are not calling for any sap your preheater shouldnt as well. but yes definately put a shutoff on the line coming from your holding tank it comes in very handy and also put a drain on it so if your using like pvc where you cant move it you can still drain it at end of the night for freezing puposes

[steve J]

Well the pre heater is set up with a valve its either open or closed. So if the preheater was in between the float and the feed tank would that not defeat the purpose of the float? and of course minus the preheater then I am not warming the sap? anyone have any photos of such a set up?

[Haynes Forest Products]

NO quit over thinking the prheater. You have a head tank with valve. You have a float valve that regulates that sap into the evap. As the evap calls for sap the float lets it in as needed Bingo bango life is good. Now you install a preheater in between the head tank and valve and the float valve COOL its just a long curly pipe that heats sap. All regulating is done with the float valve. Using a valve between the head tank and float valve TO REGULATE sap flow is a disaster waiting to happen.

Steve There are tons of preheaters pics on the site so start there. But keep in mind they are all daravations of the same thing...............a way of using the unused heat from the evap to heat the sap before it goes into the flue pan to speed up to prosess.

[mapleack]

Guys, Steve isn't talking about a copper tube preheater, he's talking about a preheater tank at the top rear of the pan. Look at Bill Mason's website for his 2x4 hobby model. The "preheater" is like the ones on half pints. Therefore, to use a float to feed the evaporator and use the preheater, either a second float will have to control the feed into the preheater, or a valve will have to control the feed to the preheater. The second option is riskier, but if he pays attention its the cheap way to go, and the volume of the preheater tank will provide some safety buffer.

[steve J]

Yes Mapleack that is my set up exactly except I had Bill weld a brack onto the back of the evaporator so that my pan sits over the elbow vs the syrup pan to avoid the condensation dropping back into the pan.

[Haynes Forest Products]

So your preheater tank sits over the flue pipe elbo for heat......................MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM OK. I would use a simple Grainger float valve that mounts inside the preheater tank. Valve and float about $50.00 and doesnt need to be all high heat proof. Then go with the float box on the evap......SEE how this gets started:o

[Maplewalnut]

SteveJ

I had the same preheater set up on my first rig. I wouldn't bother with a float. Crack your valve feeding the preheater tank and adjust from there. It will take a little time but once you get it dialed in with your evaporation rate it is pretty carefree. With a 2x4 you generally have plenty of time to keep and eye on things! Keep it simple and enjoy. Wait for floats and pre heaters and hoods til when you buy a 2x6

My 2cents

[steve J]

I think I am going to go with just cracking the two for this year and if I can pull the sap the way I think is possible I will trade up on the evaporator next year and build a proper sugar house.

Side not what are you all paying for fire brick I just bought 50 to get started with and got nailed for $4.50 a brick is that the going price these days?

[Maplewalnut]

Side not what are you all paying for fire brick I just bought 50 to get started with and got nailed for $4.50 a brick is that the going price these days?

Yikes are they gold plated? I can get halves for $1.00 (which is all you need for a 2x4) and full brick for $1.75

[C.Wilcox]

Side not what are you all paying for fire brick I just bought 50 to get started with and got nailed for $4.50 a brick is that the going price these days?

Way too much. Full brick run about $1.80 each here and splits are a few cents more (yes, halves cost more than fulls...go figure). I'm guessing you bought from a fireplace supply store? Try the local masonry supply shop or even general/hardware stores. You should definitely be able to do better than $4.50 each.

[maple flats]

simplest thing to do is ask WF Mason, he is a member. Send a PM to see if a float would be possible or feasable. Most smaller units just have manual control of the valve for level but that does not mean it is the only option. At 2x4 you might be big enough to really want a float.