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chipa
05-19-2010, 03:47 PM
This my new "pump in a pipe" setup. It is a 1/2 hp deep well pump in a 4" pipe .Pumping the sap this way will avoid sucking air through pump seals at high vacuum.



http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo87/chipa267/119.jpg

bigtreemaple
05-19-2010, 04:19 PM
Please explain why the T on the out flow of the pump leading back to the releaser. I know this is necessary but never fully understood why. Your pump is 120V submersible correct?

chipa
05-19-2010, 05:15 PM
The return hose to the releaser allows the vacuum to equalize on the suction and discharge sides of the pump.The check valve on the return line has a 1/8 inch hole drilled in it to allow recirculation.This helps to prime the pump and protects it from overheating if the discharge pipe is frozen(can't pump to the tank).The pump is 230 volts.

bigtreemaple
05-19-2010, 07:31 PM
So the check valve would always be closed due both to the vacuume and to the sap pressure when the pump is running, correct? Why is it important to equalize the vac level on both sides of the pump?

chipa
05-19-2010, 07:55 PM
If the vacuum level is equal on both sides of the pump,the pump doesn't have to overcome the vacuum on the suction side every time it starts.

brookledge
05-19-2010, 09:20 PM
Chipa
why do you need to do all that? And can you take the pump out of the pvc pipe to clean it? If all you are doing with the deep well pump is pumping the sap up to a holding tank why not just have the releaser empty into a small pan/tank and then a submersable sump pump with a float to pump the sap.
I'm not being critical, just wondering what your objectives are. How far do you need to pump the sap from the releaser to your storafe tank?
Keith

Randy Brutkoski
05-19-2010, 10:09 PM
I do the sub pump thing and it works better than what i thought it would

chipa
05-19-2010, 10:20 PM
My lines come into my pump house pretty low.The releaser pumps the sap into a tank next to the pump house,then I pump it up a hill to another tank.
The area where the pump house is is prone to flooding,so I can't set a tank any lower (to use a mechanical releaser).
The pump I have used the last 2 years started sucking air through the seal at the end of this season.
This setup took some work,but it was cheaper than buying a pressure pump and hopefully more reliable;plus I like to make things complicated.

brookledge
05-19-2010, 10:30 PM
Chipa
Ok. I know height is an issue with many of us. I was just pointing out that once the releaser dumps it is at atmosphiric pressure and a small submersable pump for 40 bucks works good.
Keith

chipa
05-20-2010, 08:34 AM
Yes I thought about going the "dump and pump" route.
That would have required a new releaser at a pretty good cost and probably revamping the pump house. I have used this releaser for 8 years.I only had the problems when I went to high vacuum.I hope this solution works;overall it was fairly low cost.
I also removed the rod/float system and replaced it with a tether float switch (like on a sump pump). I would think that the releaser manufacturers would change to this setup;it is much simpler.

Amber Gold
05-20-2010, 09:20 AM
What was your total cost to put this together? I'm wondering if this would be a good application for me.

Brent
05-21-2010, 04:43 PM
Some submersible well pumps need flow around them for cooling. In fact some even draw in from the top near the pipe connection and suck water down to the bottom then pump it up to the top and out. I don't know how your duty cycle will work but lots of starts and stops generate extra heat too !

Keep an eye ( or a hand ) on it to see if it keeps cool enough.

Randy Brutkoski
05-21-2010, 08:52 PM
If you use a big releaser you wont have that problem. It wont stop and start and stop as much. I have 2500 taps going into it and never a problem.