Vogelzang firedoor (barrel kit)

[BryanEx]

Been doing some research on barrel kits and it seems the Vogelzang Deluxe is by far the nicest but I'm also turning up very mixed reviews on it. Anyone familiar with them? Some people seem to love them for home made arches while others seem to feel they are short lived for a cast iron door.

Vogelzang Deluxe Barrel Kit (http://www.vogelzang.com/browse.cfm/deluxe-barrel-kit/4,5.html)

[maple sapper]

I run a barrel stove rig. It looks as thought if you want to use it for boiling you will need to cut and modify the top to accept a pan. It looks as thought mine was done with a slice down the top and it was peeled back in each direction. Then there was some steel l stock welded to make a rim for the pan. Then the open ares on the edges were filled in with extra material. Then a door added. I would like to invest in a air tight door. That would be my only fix at this point. I also lined the inside with 1 1/2 ceramic blankets. When I first had it, I layed fire bricks inside to shield it. Now with the blankets, the heat on the bottom of the pan is like nothing ive had before. If I only had a nice air tight door Id be all set when running the blower. It makes it a bit smokey with out the hood going.

[BryanEx]

I'm not looking at doing a barrel evaporator but the "barrel kit" is the only way to get the cast iron door. The legs and collar would likely end up in my (wife's) next garage sale. I know others have used this kit for the door on all kinds of home made evaporators but the posts I found were years old. I'm looking to replace my existing steel door with a nice cast iron one but without getting into welding. The Vogelzang is a little larger so I'd just have to cut, drill, and bolt... all of which I can do.

[Gary R]

I have that exact door on mine. I got it used for $25. It works great. I used flat gasket and stainless hardware to attach it. I think 3/8" round fits the door groove to seal it. If you use forced air you will need to protect it. I used 1" ceramic blanket cut to fit the opening. That is held on by SS bolts and fender washers. You have to drill holes through the door.

[maple sapper]

well let me know if you come up with a good solution. Your looking to do the same as me. Thats how I found your post. How funny is that?

[BryanEx]

I have that exact door on mine.
Perfect! How long have you been using it? The two complaints I've read online have been about cracking within a year and the latch. The review was not specific about the latch - simply said it should be "redesigned". Any issue with either one?


I used 1" ceramic blanket cut to fit the opening. That is held on by SS bolts and fender washers. You have to drill holes through the door.
How is it to drill through cast iron? I always though it was too hard to drill through.

[BryanEx]

well let me know if you come up with a good solution. Your looking to do the same as me. Thats how I found your post. How funny is that?
Do a search for Vogelzang but choose the post option... not threads and there are several pictures from other members. I really like this fire door for what I'm looking for.

[lpakiz]

Most cast iron will drill easier than plain "black" steel--try it!

[Z/MAN]

I'm not looking at doing a barrel evaporator but the "barrel kit" is the only way to get the cast iron door. The legs and collar would likely end up in my (wife's) next garage sale. I know others have used this kit for the door on all kinds of home made evaporators but the posts I found were years old. I'm looking to replace my existing steel door with a nice cast iron one but without getting into welding. The Vogelzang is a little larger so I'd just have to cut, drill, and bolt... all of which I can do.

I'm pretty sure my Ace Hardware store sells just the Vogelzang door alone.
Paul

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Might check ebay too, find about anything there.

[BryanEx]

Ace is US based and ebay only has the basic version of the door listed which does not have the secondary lower "draft" door. Either way, sourcing it wouldn't be a problem just a matter of money for shipping and cross-border crap. What I want to know is if it's worth it. If the door cracks or the latch warps at 600 degrees I won't bother. If a few others have had good results with it I'll buy one to replace the plain steel and gate hardware I have now.

[BryanEx]

Most cast iron will drill easier than plain "black" steel--try it!
Cool! Thanks Larry. I would never have even tried... til now. :)

[Clan Delaney]

Been doing some research on barrel kits and it seems the Vogelzang Deluxe is by far the nicest but I'm also turning up very mixed reviews on it. Anyone familiar with them? Some people seem to love them for home made arches while others seem to feel they are short lived for a cast iron door.

Vogelzang Deluxe Barrel Kit (http://www.vogelzang.com/browse.cfm/deluxe-barrel-kit/4,5.html)

Edit: Whoops... could a moderator move this thread to Home made equipment? Right idea but wrong forum.

There you go.

[Gary R]

I've had it on for 3 years. 2 with forced air. I have melted brick in my fire box. The latch isn't that great. If you make sure you use blanket on the back that just fits your opening you'll be ok.

[valleyman]

I went "all out" and Vogelzang's Deluxe airtight w/ two doors. I also lined it with ceramic blanket. Like I mentioned in the other post I push some extra air through the lower door and I get my 4 pan block evaporator rippin' with a great boil. I like the door but I'm still new at this insane obsession called SUGARIN'

You probably already saw it but I have a couple of pics in the thread under Homemade Maple Equipment > "arch doors" started by Maplerob.

http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?t=8885

[BryanEx]

I've had it on for 3 years. 2 with forced air. I have melted brick in my fire box. The latch isn't that great. If you make sure you use blanket on the back that just fits your opening you'll be ok.
Fantastic... thanks for the feedback Gary R. I won't be using forced air due to my "traditional methods" marketing... at least when someone is around so I should be good. By the time I get this thing to Canada it will be a stupid amount of $$$ but I don't mind paying for something I feel is worth it. Curious though, what is the issue with the latch?


You probably already saw it but I have a couple of pics in the thread under Homemade Maple Equipment > "arch doors" started by Maplerob.
Yes... thanks very much valleyman. Your pics are what turned me onto this door in the first place. I've done tons of searches but have yet to find a nicer option for what I want to do but it was the reviews attached to many of those searches that made me question the quality.

[Gary R]

It's just a curved piece of metal. Some heat and presure and the door may loosen. Just smack it with a hammer and it will tighten back up:)

[twofer]

It's just a curved piece of metal. Some heat and presure and the door may loosen. Just smack it with a hammer and it will tighten back up:)

Agreed

It is a minor annoyance but the fix is quick, easy, and releases some frustration. :)

As far as heat and cracking goes I did like many on here and sandwiched a cutout of ceramic blanket behind some 1/4" plate on the door. It still got hot to touch but no cracking or warping (not on blower though). I also wrapped the outside with stove gasket in order to get a more air tight seal.

In hindsight I would/will probably get the basic door since I had better luck with regulating the air coming from the under the grates.

[Pete S]

I had good luck using a "used" door from an old coal/wood fired furnace. 'Round these parts, many furnaces that are converted soild fuel units get replaced and then junked.

Nice cast iron door! Just build a frame, and give'er!

Pete