need a lil help moveing my evaporator

[sapbrush]

i have my half pint in the garage now into a chimeny flue, has worked fine there for several years, i have a 20 by 18 shed that i am going to move it into this summer, looking for info on what to put on the floor for the heat from the evaporator, the floor is plywood, and is it beter to go threw the roof with pipe or a jack or out the side of the shed and up and what kind of pipe would you recomend
Jim

[stoweski]

This is a bit overkill but I went to Lowes and bought 8" double walled chimney pipe and a roof jack kit to go through the roof. Probably not necessary but gave me peace of mind since I was within 4" of combustibles. I used 8" stovepipe the rest of the way down and then used an adapter to go from 6" to 8" to make the final connection. Worked great... but cost close to $600 total. My insurance company liked it though.

The reason for 8" is in case I decide to upgrade evaporators. Well, after this season, decision has been made! And I'm glad I got 8"!

[sapbrush]

Thanks For The Help Im Still Kicking The Out Threw The Roof Or Out Threw The Side Of The Shed What Did You Use On The Floor To Protect The Wooden Floor Jim

[maple flats]

Straight up is best. Also realize the stack should be protected BETTER than a conventional woodstove. This is because you will run the evaporator flat out for hours on end. You need to be protected. This however does not need to be a conventional insulated or triple wall chimney. I made my own triple wall. I have the original stack (12") and around that I have a layer of 30ga pipe 16" diameter, on spacers made of tin and around that I have another layer also 30 ga tin spaced the same so my outer layer is 20". The general rule of thumb is you need to protect any combustable surface within 36". Every layer you put inbetween with at least a 1" space cuts the distance in half. Thus I need 36" from 12" but only 18" from 16" and 9" from 20", a fourth layer spaced 1" or more brings it to 4.5" from a 24" pipe. My trusses are spaced to accommodate this. Another route would be insulate with a ceramic blanket or other high R rating insulation. This would be even more protective. 2 layers of 1" spaced enough to allow air circulation between would do the trick with comfort to spare. This would take much less room but I had the 30 ga and made my own outer pipes and spacers. If I had more uniform round pipes I could have easily gone 12,14,16,18", 4 layers and 4.5" required space outside. Or a combo of 2 layers and a layer of ceramic insulation. You will also be much safer with a steel roof rather than any combustable, then use a roof jack or fashion your own.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Home Depot sell 4 X 8 sheets of 1/4" Hardi tile backer lay that down and then square patio pavers on top and it will be fine. Cheap and fast. ASlot depends on your arch and how well its insulated. What was the temp of the floor when the rig was running in its present location that should tell you what to do.

[maplemark]

I had the same problem when I set up my stuff in a preexisting shed with a wood floor. I laid down cement board ( 3 x 5 foot boards) , then the 12 x 12 patio blocks , 3 ft to the sides and about 5 ft in the front , to catch any sparks jumping out of the firebox .
defiantly go straight up with the stack

[justlookingon]

Just bought a 2x3 Mason evaporator last summer and put it into a 12x16 machine shed which is up on blocks right now with a dirt floor. I ran a metalbestos chimney, which I had, out through the back wall about 3' and then straight up and it works just fine. Maybe not as efficient as straight up, but still works. (we've made 8 gals of syrup so far)

I don't find that my evaporator throws much radiant heat down towards the floor, but I would be nervous about any coals that may fall out when filling the firebox, cleaning, etc. Lots of options here-cement board, patio blocks, bricks, etc.

I want to pour a cement floor this summer, put a layer of block around the base and then drop the building back down. I am also moving the evaporator to the end of the building so it will be directly under the cupola. Right now the steam hits the roof 6' lower than the cupola opening and then rolls up. We get drips on some days.

I was anxious about getting a good seal on the roof where my stovepipe goes up through so I opted for wall venting (I'm no carpenter). If you go through the roof, you can change heights on the evaporator without issue-like adding flooring material underneath it or, in my case, jacking up the building. You can't do that if you wall vent it. We are still going for a wall vent, but this time it will be on the gable end centered just about on the peak. I have a metal roof too which is indeed comforting. Good luck!

[stoweski]

Thanks For The Help Im Still Kicking The Out Threw The Roof Or Out Threw The Side Of The Shed What Did You Use On The Floor To Protect The Wooden Floor Jim


I have a concrete floor so I don't have an issue with this. However, the ideas mentioned above with Durrock or Hardibacker would work for you. My 1/2 pint is 8" off the floor on concrete blocks. If you were to do the same (which makes it easier for you to operate as you're not bending over as much) and put a sheet or two of hardibacker on the floor I think that would be fine. I stacked wood ready to burn right next to the barrel for hours and never had a problem. Yes, they were warm but with firebrick lining the barrel they were never hot. As a matter of fact the bottom of the barrel was hot but definitely not putting off a tremendous amount of heat.

[sapbrush]

thanks for all your help, got some great ideas here, now a job and some cash flow, and ill be in business for next year, thanks agan jim