View Full Version : 2x6 homemade arch
Brian Kloepfer
03-14-2010, 09:40 AM
Here are some pictures of my arch that I am making.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0141.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0140.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0139.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0138.jpg
birdmancf
03-14-2010, 10:21 AM
Hey Brian,
Nice looking rig. Would you be interested in sharing any measurements? I don't weld so I have to have someone else fabricate it. I've been trying to determine if others are basing their measurements upon insulaltion plus brick plus desired clearance, or just eyeballing the back slope of the arch.
The sap is flowing great up here so I'm going to have to get bigger than my barrel and restaurant pans. Tired of 10 hour boils for 50 gallons o' sap.
A friend of mine has a weld shop and said he would make one for me if I get dimensions for him. If you can share the dimensions that would be great. If not, I understand.
Looks great!!! Congrats!!!:)
Brian Kloepfer
03-14-2010, 12:37 PM
Here are some of the dimensions. If you would like more let me know.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/demetions-1.jpg
jdesq
03-14-2010, 02:05 PM
Very nice!! Keep the pictures of your progress coming>
SeanD
03-14-2010, 03:49 PM
Yeah, that's really well done. I especially appreciate the large pics. I wouldn't have considered doubling up the angles under the fire box and the transition to the slope, but now I can see why.
Would you mind including a close-up of one of those inside angles where the grate supports meet inside the vertical supports? Did you have to notch one to meet flush with the other horizontal support or is it just welded on the edges of the verticals?
Thanks for sharing!
Sean
Brian Kloepfer
03-14-2010, 06:25 PM
Yeah, that's really well done. I especially appreciate the large pics. I wouldn't have considered doubling up the angles under the fire box and the transition to the slope, but now I can see why.
Would you mind including a close-up of one of those inside angles where the grate supports meet inside the vertical supports? Did you have to notch one to meet flush with the other horizontal support or is it just welded on the edges of the verticals?
Thanks for sharing!
Sean
Here are some for you Sean of the fire box area.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_3245.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_3246.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_3247.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_3248.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
03-14-2010, 06:30 PM
Here are some with the sides on.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0142.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0144.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0146.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0149.jpg
kinalfarm
03-14-2010, 06:54 PM
looks like an exact replica of my homade 2x6 great job. mine boils 15-20 gal/hr with flat pans and a blower. what are you doing for pans?
vtsnowedin
03-14-2010, 09:14 PM
She's Hell for Stout for sure. Remind me not to volunteer when you have to load it in the truck.:D She should last until the forth owners grand kids move on to something bigger.
WoodButcher
03-14-2010, 09:15 PM
looks like an exact replica of my homade 2x6 great job.
looks identical to mine too ! but mines a 2x4 . nice job , looks good . love the tack welds instead of rivets. my forearms still hurt from all those 3/16" rivets every 5" ! :o
Brian Kloepfer
03-15-2010, 07:03 PM
Pans on the new arch. The stack is just set in the back of the arch for looks.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_3257.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_3258.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
03-15-2010, 07:08 PM
This is what I am graduating from.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/maple%20syrup%202009/March2009pictures110.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/maple%20syrup%202009/March2009pictures118.jpg
Syrup from this year.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/maple%20syrup%202009/IMG_3249.jpg
SeanD
03-15-2010, 07:17 PM
Thanks for the close-ups. Looks really good. You are flying along!
Sean
maplemaple2020
03-15-2010, 07:31 PM
HOLY CRAP THATS NICE!!! but it would of been awesome if it can accommodate a flue pan but thats frekin sweetttt:D:D
maplerob
03-16-2010, 08:37 PM
where u guys getting doors big enough for these fire boxes
xyz5150
03-17-2010, 02:04 PM
how do you make the sides air tight with only spot welds?
Ausable
03-18-2010, 06:44 AM
where u guys getting doors big enough for these fire boxes
Hi - The Vogelzang Doors You see in some of the pictures come from a barrel stove kit that Vogelzang used to make. I don't think they still make them. I have used one for about 15 years and when my Son and Grandson built me a new evaporator and arch ---- The old Vogelzang door found a new home on the new arch. ---- Mike
jpryde
03-18-2010, 10:35 AM
Hi - The Vogelzang Doors You see in some of the pictures come from a barrel stove kit that Vogelzang used to make. I don't think they still make them. I have used one for about 15 years and when my Son and Grandson built me a new evaporator and arch ---- The old Vogelzang door found a new home on the new arch. ---- Mike
You can still get the Vogelzang doors. I just purchased one from Ebay (about a week ago). Just search "Barrel Stove Kit" They work great and are easy to install.
Clan Delaney
03-18-2010, 12:55 PM
I'm toying with the idea of builing a new arch for next year with a design much like this. One difference I wanted to plan for was to make the arch wider than the pans to accomodate for the thickness of the brick and insulation. So when I set the pans on, I know that they're getting heat right up to the edges.
vtsnowedin
03-18-2010, 05:16 PM
I'm toying with the idea of builing a new arch for next year with a design much like this. One difference I wanted to plan for was to make the arch wider than the pans to accomodate for the thickness of the brick and insulation. So when I set the pans on, I know that they're getting heat right up to the edges.
That's a good idea with all the arch boards taking up so much space. I'd leave at least an inch of bearing on each side for every two foot of span to provide enough support and to hold the pan gasket. Maybe go with a 1.5x3 angle iron with the long leg horizontal to cover the bricks and insulation. On a two foot pan that would give you two feet four inches out to out.
Brian Kloepfer
03-18-2010, 06:43 PM
You can still get the Vogelzang doors. I just purchased one from Ebay (about a week ago). Just search "Barrel Stove Kit" They work great and are easy to install.
I got the one that's on the barrel (my old arch) from Menard's. I am going to trans plant it to the new arch.
Brian Kloepfer
01-16-2011, 07:05 PM
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4975.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4976.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4977.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4978.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
01-16-2011, 07:07 PM
Got the front on and the door and the chimney made and the fronting flange for the chimney
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4980.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4981.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_4982.jpg
xulgiy
01-17-2011, 08:49 AM
Brian,
One mistake I made when I fabricated mine was that I put the stack right tight to the pan. Bad move. When I get a really rolling boil the splash on the back side of the pan burns to a crisp. This year I'm going to put a layer of insulation in the stack and sandwich it with another piece of steel. Dumb move on my part!
fishman
02-04-2011, 07:45 PM
I'm new to this site (great site by the way) and I'm thinking of building the same thing as you did. Just got a new 2 x 4 with a preater pan. What size angle and thickness of sheet metal did you use? Do you have to weld a continuous bead around the whole sheet metal or just tack it every 6" or so. Wouldn't it leak with just a few tack welds? What size fire brick and did you have to do much cutting to get it all to fit? Would I get that much extra performance from an arch or could I just put a flat piece across the top at the back with a 8" pipe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
smith3455
02-09-2011, 11:11 AM
You can still buy the doors at Northern tool Co and at any Tractor Supply Store check their web sits for barrel stove kits.
kiegscustoms
02-09-2011, 07:13 PM
I don't think your base stack will burn out any time soon! That has to be the most rugged one I've ever seen! Fishman- My tin on my old 2x6 was 20 gauge and it was pop riveted every 3 inches. As far as the bricks go use full brick at the bottom and 1 run of 1/2 brick under the rail so heat can transfer fully to the pans. It will require some cutting but a diamond blade on a skill saw or better yet a large wet tile / brick saw works good. You can probably get away with 2" x 3/16 angle for your rails on that size rig. The base stack is used to make the flue gasses evacuate the rig across the entire width so you have even heat on your back pan. If you decided to use a round thimble instead of a base stack you would have to stack bricks or something with air space in between them in the middle to get the gasses to move to the outside of the pan before exiting the flue. Hope this helps.
fishman
02-10-2011, 05:11 PM
did you use steel rivets and rivet from the inside? Do I really need archboard and do I need to mortar the firebrick or can I just lay it in? The help is greatly appreciated. Wife is starting to get that look after the new pan and all the fittings plus the steel, new taps, tubing and containers. I haven't mentioned the firebrick yet.:rolleyes:
kiegscustoms
02-10-2011, 06:53 PM
Yes large steel rivets from the inside. The arch board is just another barrier between the tin on your sides and the fire, some don't use it but I recommend it. If you don't use the arch board you should use refractory cement to seal up any holes where fire could get through. My feeling is you have to have the bricks, so why not add that extra insulation to help your sides from burning out as fast. A few bucks now could save money and time down the road. The arch I am building now has 1" arch board on the outside of the entire firebox, 4 rows of full bricks laid flat (4.5" thick) and 3 rows of full brick on edge (under the rails / pans for complete heat transfer) all refractory cemented together. The person helping me build the arch said he can put his hand on the outside of his arch.
Brian Kloepfer
02-11-2011, 07:28 PM
I used 1 1/4 X1 1/4 x 1/16 angel iron and 16 gage sheet steal. Welded the sheet steal on the in side with tack welds every inch or so. Insulated with arch board then bricked with fire bricks.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5028.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5029.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5030.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5031.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
02-11-2011, 07:29 PM
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5032.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5033.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5034.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5035.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
02-11-2011, 08:20 PM
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5036.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5037.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5038.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5039.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
02-11-2011, 08:21 PM
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5040.jpg
70 Buick
02-12-2011, 11:56 AM
really awesome job
now build and sell them LOL
let me know where to send my order !!
Brian Kloepfer
02-12-2011, 01:04 PM
Moved the arch from the shop to my sugar shack.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0284.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0283.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_0282.jpg
fishman
02-12-2011, 07:40 PM
great looking rig. What did you move it with-a crane? Are you losing 2" on each side of the pan due to the archboard and firebrick?
fishman
02-12-2011, 07:51 PM
ps-how do you attach the archboard to the steel-with refractory cement?
Brian Kloepfer
02-12-2011, 08:53 PM
The arch board is just set in place and the fire brick is holding it all together. I did loose 1 inch do to the fire brick. The arch board is the same thickness as the frame of the arch.
This is how I move the arch.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5165.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5166.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5167.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5169.jpg
WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER
02-13-2011, 09:23 AM
Looks very nice. Can you turn the grates up the other way so the ash can fill the angle iron to insulate it too and it helps with draft letting the air suck up thru the "V". This is how I moved my evaporator a few years ago but I used 2" wide x 20' tow straps rated for 10,000 lbs.
70 Buick
02-13-2011, 04:17 PM
boy life is alot easier when you have the right tools to do a job LOL
nice looking log splitter you got there also
fishman
02-13-2011, 05:46 PM
Are you 24" outside to outside with a 24" wide pan?
Brian Kloepfer
02-13-2011, 08:24 PM
Are you 24" outside to outside with a 24" wide pan?
Yes I did.
UNDRBLLY
02-15-2011, 09:06 PM
I have a 48x16 hobby propane evaporator. I am having trouble getting a gas company to put a tank in and give me high pressure. Even with high pressure i can only get 10-11 gallons an hour. Would I be better off building a homemade arch like Brians and put an oil burner on it. With the gas units , there has to be air flow under the pans and the heat loss is unreal. You can't gasket it or the flame doesn't burn right. Does anyone have any ideas or answers?
Dick
Greg Morin
02-16-2011, 06:31 AM
I have a 48x16 hobby propane evaporator. I am having trouble getting a gas company to put a tank in and give me high pressure. Even with high pressure i can only get 10-11 gallons an hour. Would I be better off building a homemade arch like Brians and put an oil burner on it. With the gas units , there has to be air flow under the pans and the heat loss is unreal. You can't gasket it or the flame doesn't burn right. Does anyone have any ideas or answers?
Dick
I believe by code 2# is all that can be piped thru a building 10-11 gallons isnt terrible for 4x16 really is it? a 2x4 is only 15 gal per hr.
UNDRBLLY
02-17-2011, 01:00 AM
Maybe I'm a little nieve, but when I bought the evaporator from Lapierre, they advertised it at around 20 gph. Not even close. In my line of work I need to be able to leave at a moments notice and a wood fire would not be acceptable. That's why I went to propane. Turn it on , turn it off. How should I go about building an arch for fuel oil and are there any venting or insulating factors that I should be aware of? Could I build an arch like Brians, firebrick it and put an oil burner where the door is or is that not going to work?
Dick
sugar ED
02-17-2011, 03:36 AM
Maybe I'm a little nieve, but when I bought the evaporator from Lapierre, they advertised it at around 20 gph. Not even close. In my line of work I need to be able to leave at a moments notice and a wood fire would not be acceptable. That's why I went to propane. Turn it on , turn it off. How should I go about building an arch for fuel oil and are there any venting or insulating factors that I should be aware of? Could I build an arch like Brians, firebrick it and put an oil burner where the door is or is that not going to work?
Dick
Dick ,I have just finnished my arch ,made from a old wood/fuel oil gun burner furnace .I have removed the gun part as I'm going to use wood only,however there is fire brick on both sides and rear BUT the rear fire brick was covered with a heave 1/4 plate steel with 1" by 1" 1/4 angle suport all around it (welded) and across the center (4 more suport on back of plate) this plate also had a sheet of stanless steel welded onto the front to refelect the gun heat.... by the way the s/s was warped bad !!! but the furnace is over 30 years old .. hope this helps . ps. and you won't need an ash pan, ok now heres my PROBLEM / Question, lol . As u can see -30yr. furnace to an arch .maybe I'm alittle cheap, but the 20yr old 55 gal barrow stove wasn't going to keep me up for days this year ! So I made a 2x6 arch, found a used 2x4rear pan and ordered (local metal shop) a 2x2 divided front syrup pan (continus flow) ...But to make long...to shorter story- when I went to pick it up... It looked sweet !! but a little big.. like 24"x28" Now I gots to figger out what to do with the extra 4" of pan (is it going work hanging over the front of the arch by 2 to 4 inches?) as time is not on my side to make the flu longer or should I turn the pan and leave 2" on each side overhanging? 1 other option - raise the rail by 2" at sametime add 4" to the front allowing heat to reach all the bottoms of pans ???? What too do :confused: otherhaft is about to move me to the sugar shack !
UNDRBLLY
02-17-2011, 07:25 AM
Thank you for your input Ed. I have some time as I am still going to try to use propane this year.
Brian Kloepfer
02-20-2011, 12:30 PM
I used my new arch for the first time on Friday. Wow it worked great. I had to add a steam hood and vent to my building. I never thought this thing would put out this much steam.:mrgreen:
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5241.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5246.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5242.jpg
Brian Kloepfer
02-20-2011, 12:34 PM
Here is a short video of it working. Click on the image.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/th_Archvideo.jpg (http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/?action=view¤t=Archvideo.mp4)
coreyws05
02-20-2011, 07:38 PM
That is a very nice arch you have built there. I love all the detailed pics and measurements of it. I think I am going to try and see if I can make one this summer and hope it turns out to look half that good. Very nice job
Ausable
02-22-2011, 09:26 AM
Brian -- Now that is what I call - Showing Off - I've had 25 trees tapped for over a week and less than a gallon of sap to show for it. lol - Hey - That is a really nice looking Rig and doing the job it was built for. My little evaporator is sitting in the back of the shack and pouting --- and keeps asking "where the heck is the sap?" ------- Have a great year --- Mike
mike z
02-22-2011, 02:51 PM
Hey, there it is boiling away. What a site to behold. Like putting electricity to Frankenstein's monster and having it walk around. Except no scary Frankenstein ending just sweet wonderful syrup. Thanks for posting the journey. I learned a lot along the way.
jdesq
02-26-2011, 09:46 AM
That is one awesome evaporator you've made! I am very jealous of your talent and am coveting something fierce.
fishman
03-02-2011, 06:55 PM
Was your stack made out of 16 gauge steel? I wonder if my plans for making mine out of 20 gauge is going to burn out. Last thing I have to do besides bricking . Running out of time.
Brian Kloepfer
03-02-2011, 07:24 PM
Yes the stack is made out of 16gage steel. It seams to be working very well.
I painted it with black stove paint. I have used it 2 times and the paint has not burned off yet.
C&C maple sugar bush
03-06-2011, 05:42 PM
How many GPH do you burn up with that?
Brian Kloepfer
03-06-2011, 08:53 PM
I am not sure. Some time I should pay attention to it. I am guessing 10-12 GPH
Brian Kloepfer
06-04-2011, 03:32 PM
I am looking to add forced air to this arch. Is there an advantage of round in let verses rectangle?
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/bckloepfer/New%20arch/IMG_5246.jpg
sunapeemaple
08-06-2011, 01:19 PM
how much did it cost to build this rig?
MoCoFarm
01-22-2012, 01:26 PM
Thanks for the inspiration, Just finished this 2x4 arch. Using Stainless Steel Creations pans
Things I did different:
Pullout ash drawer
Provisions for small blower under grate
Increased dim's so only about 1/2 inch of pan is on arch frame
Cost for materials for the arch was more than I expected(as usual) $600+
I will brick it next week and add more pictures.513451355136
RileySugarbush
01-22-2012, 04:25 PM
Very nice Moco!
Do you have some way of keeping the condensation on that warming pan from dripping back in you pan?
Sledheed
01-17-2015, 08:54 PM
Thread was helpful. Thanks.
Sugarmaker
01-18-2015, 07:10 PM
did you use steel rivets and rivet from the inside? Do I really need archboard and do I need to mortar the firebrick or can I just lay it in? The help is greatly appreciated. Wife is starting to get that look after the new pan and all the fittings plus the steel, new taps, tubing and containers. I haven't mentioned the firebrick yet.:rolleyes:
If she is getting that look like "hurry up we have to make high quality syrup on the best equipment money can buy" then your OK! If that's not it, then this is not the last time you will get the look:) Just sayin........
Regards,
Chris
Sledheed
01-31-2015, 09:35 PM
Making some progress. Time is not on my side. Thanks again.
Sledheed
01-31-2015, 09:39 PM
Hoping for lots of sap.
supersapper
02-01-2015, 11:53 PM
I used the same basic plan and it worked great. I used a 2-2 undivided pan for my sap pan and a 2-4 with two dividers for my front pan. I want o have a 2-2 pan made with three dividers in it and move it to the front for my syrup pan but I don't know who can make one. Any help?
Peepers
02-02-2015, 09:40 AM
Supersapper - When I made my pan I had my local welder bend up some dividers for me then I got a big soldering iron and used silver solder to assemble like this.
10556
Was my first pan build so not sure if this is the optimal divider design but it works for my 2x3 pan.
WI Sugarpop
02-02-2015, 06:40 PM
I used the same basic plan and it worked great. I used a 2-2 undivided pan for my sap pan and a 2-4 with two dividers for my front pan. I want o have a 2-2 pan made with three dividers in it and move it to the front for my syrup pan but I don't know who can make one. Any help?
https://www.smokylakemaple.com/
MBarbieri
10-06-2015, 07:35 AM
I am just getting started with this build too. It looks like a great project my high school students are going to try and tackle it with me. a few questions seeing that the chimney pipe takes up the back 12" that means I am looking to get 5' of pans correct? I was thinking a 2X3 flat pan in the back and a 2X2 divided pan in the front does this make sense? also whats the best way to connect the two together? sorry for the newbie questions this past season was my first where I made a block arch with a single 2X2 flat pan. let me know what you guys think I will try and post pictures when its all finished! thank you for the plans on this project!
n8hutch
10-06-2015, 12:38 PM
If you want to run a true set of 2x6 pans in the future your going to want to build your Arch about 7' long, maybe slightly shorter if you use a Rectangular Base stack vs, a round base.
MBarbieri
10-07-2015, 09:10 AM
Ok thanks! that is good to know we are building it 6' long with a rectangle base stack but i am going to make them make the transition piece to fit to challenge them a bit! i should be ok with the 5' of pans i am still a small operation starting with new trees this year because i moved this past spring and lost the trees that were giving me 5 gallons a day each! :(
Bricklayer
12-10-2015, 05:04 AM
Great build, I was wondering if you had any issues with the angles at the base stack warping, I am building a similar arch and am trying to figure out how to make the lip for the stack to fit over. There really isn't a way to protect that angle properly. It looks like in your arch it's just exposed steel angle. And your stack slides over top of it. Did you put a gasket there or is it just tight fitted?
Brian Kloepfer
12-22-2015, 02:49 PM
It has been working great. No gasket at base the stack just slides over the angle and is not a tight fit.
lpakiz
12-22-2015, 05:28 PM
Mine also just sits on the base stack plate, with a 1 inch lip to locate the transition stack. No problem with smoke leakage.
As far as insulation on that piece, my theory says that it should not be that hot back there. You should have used that heat up before it gets that far.
Bricklayer
12-22-2015, 07:02 PM
Can run at over 1000f back there. I decided to use 1/2" plate steel as a plate on back with my stack similar to brians stack welded to the plate, then bolted the plate to the arch rails with 6 stainless bolts. I cut the bolt holes in the plate 1/8" bigger so if it starts to warp it dosnt bring the arch rails with it
MBarbieri
01-04-2016, 08:18 AM
What kind of Steel did you skin the sides with? Have the frame made just trying to find an economical material to skin it with that can still hold the firebricks. Thanks!
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