2x4 Divided pan length or width

[sticbow]

Im sure I have read almost every thread on here about evaporators, arches, stacks, pans etc. etc. etc. I have no idea how people can stare at a computer screen all day. My eyes feel like they are burning out of my head!!I cannot believe the wealth of knowledge on this site and thanks to all for sharing it.

I know I ran across divided pans hundreds of times. Im sure someone had to have touched on this length-width question. I just cant find an answer!!


1) On a 2x4 pan or any pan, which is the more efficient way as far as boiling goes, to run the dividers?


2) Whichever way the dividers go, is more better?


3) Is there any advantage to putting a 2x4 pan on a 2x6 arch so the gases stay in the arch longer before exiting the stack?


Finally, for the people that made the drop flue pans with the copper arrestors hanging off the bottom. Do you think this would work as well with the arrestors coming into the pan like a raised flue?

[Big_Eddy]

1) On a 2x4 pan or any pan, which is the more efficient way as far as boiling goes, to run the dividers?
2) Whichever way the dividers go, is more better?
3) Is there any advantage to putting a 2x4 pan on a 2x6 arch so the gases stay in the arch longer before exiting the stack?

Finally, for the people that made the drop flue pans with the copper arrestors hanging off the bottom. Do you think this would work as well with the arrestors coming into the pan like a raised flue?

1) On a 2x4 - I would place one solid divider across the 2' width about 8" back from the front for syrup, then place 2 dividers lengthwise in the back 3'4" of the pan for sap, with openings at opposing ends. This way you can add sap at one back corner and it will flow through the 3 rear sections to the front on the other side. Scoop it over into a seperate front section for syrup.
Gives you the ability to run different depths front and back, and the ability to finish a reasonably small quantity at a time in the front.
2) What really matters most is the size of the syrup section. Smaller allows you to draw more frequently but in smaller amounts. More dividers in the rest of the pan creates more gradient and therefore gets you to the first draw off faster, and also reduces mixing between boils.
3) No - not unless you use that additional distance to heat sap with preheaters or pans. It's not a bad idea if you plan to expand later though.
4) Nope - arrestors up into the pan will be significantly less effective than drop arrestors. The flue gases will pass all around drop arrestors, but very few gases would circulate up into raised arrestors. Also - you would need to run that "flue" pan deeper than the length of the arrestors to avoid burning. If you're going to go to the effort of adding them - make them drops.

[sticbow]

Thanks Big Eddy!!! I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions!!!

[KenWP]

I also wouldn't want to be the guy who had to clean a pan with tubes going up instead of down. The tubes would have to be short also so that you could have sap over them or have scortch marks on every one.

[sticbow]

It all makes perfect sense now!! I kept thinking that you were draining the whole pan and your not. I was always wondering how you drained the drop flues. Now I know your not and your keeping the pan sweet through the season.