Float box

[Mike Czok]

Right now I only have a gate valve between my flue pan and syrup pan and having depth problems in the syrup pan. Should I have a float box instead? I have a 2x6. If so where do I get one

[Haynes Forest Products]

From the manf. they will be the ones to design the right float box. I had a 2x8 old english tin rig that didnt have a valve or a box and I was able to get things level and running continious. Things too work on the rate that you fill the rate you draw off and the level of the sap during full boil. Just a gate valve between the pans can lead to surging. To fast to slow you cant see it but you will set up a wave effect that is hard to compensate for. Open the valve all the way and then regulate the infeed and dont over draw.

[3rdgen.maple]

Mike is it a drop flue or raised flue? Drops have only one float box on the flue pan and raised flure has two. If It is a raised and you got it from Patrick give him a call right now so you will get it in time for next year. If it is a drop check to see how level your arch is and if it is report back I have a sloution that made alot of difference on sap and syrup levels in my drop. It helps exacally what Haynes describes as the surging effect.

[sterling gold]

I also have a 2x6 and last year we ran without the float box. It was a pain to regulate the flow, and as a result we'd end up with 8 gallon draws and then no draws for a couple of boils, leading to a degradation in the quality of the syrup.

If you want to get the float box setup, give the guys at Leader a call. They helped me get set up for this year, and they might have some used float boxes and valve assemblies to work with your evaporator. Good luck!

[Mike Czok]

Mike is it a drop flue or raised flue? Drops have only one float box on the flue pan and raised flure has two. If It is a raised and you got it from Patrick give him a call right now so you will get it in time for next year. If it is a drop check to see how level your arch is and if it is report back I have a sloution that made alot of difference on sap and syrup levels in my drop. It helps exacally what Haynes describes as the surging effect.

It is a drop flue. I would really be interested in you solution. Thanks

[3rdgen.maple]

Okay Mike your drop flue only takes one float box from the tank to the flue pan. What happens is it boils really hard and the way the inlet for the raw sap coming into the flue pan allows the boiling sap to enter the float box and raises the float up and does not allow fresh sap to enter the pans. Then when you open the doors to load wood it kills the boil enough to suck the sap right out of the float box and then you get a big surge of raw sap entering the pans and it overfills them past your desired level. I watched this happen too many times when I first got the my evaporator. To solve this problem go to your hardware store and buy yourself an 1 1/4 90 degree elbow and couple inches of pipe. Solder the pipe in the elbow and then just put the elbow in the opening on the flue pan. It fits tight enough so no need to make it permanent there. Have the opening face the back of the flue pan. Doing this allows no sap to back flow into the float box and cause the surging problem. After I did this I maintained a constant depth and had no more of the problems you described. Good luck .

Got to thinking Dont get the short pipe. The large end of the elbow goes into the opening in the flue pan so you need to get another straight fitting that will fit over the smaller diameter end of the elbow. For the life of me I cannot think of their name. Dry fit it first to make sure it fits then just solder the peice on the elbow.