View Full Version : Evaporator Temperatures
C.Wilcox
02-23-2010, 01:04 PM
There have been a number of posts by members about temperatures inside the firebox and/or stack of their evaporator, but has anyone ever measured the temperature on the outside surface? In other words, how hot is the outside of the arch adjacent to where the firebox would be? I realize the answer could vary greatly depending on how the arch is insulated, but for the sake of this question I'd be interested in hearing from folks that use 1-inch of archboard/blanket and half bricks. I'm considering doing a bit of a custom paint job and am wondering if it's just going to burn off in the first 5 minutes. Would 1200 degree paint hold up?
3rdgen.maple
02-23-2010, 11:06 PM
If you read the can of high temp paint it is pretty much worthless unless it is baked on the surface at such and such temperatures for a certain amount of time. Been down this road. I repaint the arch rails and the doors because ofter a seasons boil they look like crap and even painting the with high temp and lighting a fire to cure it it still burns off. I also have 1 inch archboard and split brick but it really doesnt cover the doors or rails. Last year I took the doors off at the end of the season and painted and stuck them in the bbq grill and baked them per instructions so I will see how it holds up this year. By the way I used ceramic 1800* degree paint.
C.Wilcox
02-24-2010, 09:15 AM
Thanks 3rdgen. That's what I was wondering. I'm going to have the same 1" board and half bricks that you mentioned so it sounds like this might not be the best idea unless I want to redo it every year....which I don't.
C Wilcox... I have a fancy laser temp gun, that is pretty accurate... I also hace an arch lined with 1" arch board I got from "themaple guys" with 1/2 brick... Stainless Steel sides.... next time I fire it up I'll shoot some readings for the both of us,,,,, as I was considering painting the rasied "Maple Pro" of the front of my cast iron doors.
Mac
C.Wilcox
02-24-2010, 09:41 AM
C Wilcox... I have a fancy laser temp gun, that is pretty accurate... I also hace an arch lined with 1" arch board I got from "themaple guys" with 1/2 brick... Stainless Steel sides.... next time I fire it up I'll shoot some readings for the both of us,,,,, as I was considering painting the rasied "Maple Pro" of the front of my cast iron doors.
Mac
Cool....thanks Mac!
TF Maple
02-24-2010, 11:27 AM
I have a laser temp gun too, I was thinking of trying to read the temp of my syrup with it.
JuniperHillSugar
02-24-2010, 11:36 AM
It is interesting to see how much heat is escaping from the side of the arch. But is it a "food grade" laser?
KenWP
02-24-2010, 05:48 PM
The lazer temp gizmo tends to take only the surface temp of liquids. With the steak escaping so hard its possible that temp will be lower then the internal temp. We use one to make huge pots of oyster stew in order to get close and then use the thermometer.
Haynes Forest Products
02-24-2010, 11:06 PM
My Laser missreads liquid and even shinny copper will give a misleading temp. My rig is still looking good after 6 years with the same High temp paint. Most people make the mistake of using High temp over regular primer:mad: I must say that a little heat from the arch is nice on cold days. If the sides of the SS pan show 112 doesnt it stand to reason the liquid inside is close to that?
Treetapper
02-25-2010, 12:05 AM
Has anyone ever used Wood Stove Polish rather than high temp. paint with any success?
3rdgen.maple
02-25-2010, 12:10 AM
Never tried it but my grandfather always took a stick of parafin wax and coated the arch rails and doors after the last boil while the arch was still hot. It always looked good. No rust and never had to repaint it. First boil of the season smelt like wax though. Forgot all about that little trick thanks treetapper for refreshing the memory. I gotta give it a shot this year.
red maples
02-25-2010, 09:15 AM
I used arch board and full brick and I can still touch the sides for a split second but it will burn pre filters:( and syrup drips if it is there too long.
C.Wilcox
02-25-2010, 10:53 AM
Has anyone ever used Wood Stove Polish rather than high temp. paint with any success?
I thought of this too, but when I read the container it says for "black steel or cast iron". Being that I have a fuel drum arch that will be shiny silver when I buff the old paint off I don't think it would work too well. If you have dark cast or steel then it should work great. I've used it on my woodstove in the past and got good results. Smells a bit rough when you first fire it up, but that only lasts a few minutes.
Treetapper
02-25-2010, 11:56 AM
Never tried it but my grandfather always took a stick of parafin wax and coated the arch rails and doors after the last boil while the arch was still hot. It always looked good. No rust and never had to repaint it. First boil of the season smelt like wax though. Forgot all about that little trick thanks treetapper for refreshing the memory. I gotta give it a shot this year.
Parafin wax sounds like a good idea for storage off season. I will try that too. Thanks for the tip. I think i will try stove polish on the new arch when its done. I will report back with results good or bad.
Brent
02-25-2010, 03:46 PM
I asked Patrick Phaneuf what black paint to use to touch up my evap and he says Rustoleum Hi Temp is as good as anything else, and repainting every year or two is normal.
Anyone know what the temperature is in firebox. I'm trying to source some new insulation and the guys want to know the real temps.
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