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View Full Version : how do you attach insulation to firebox door?



TC matt
02-20-2010, 09:24 AM
How do you attach insulation to firebox door and other parts of the firebox that aren't bricked? I was thinking of just using nuts, bolts and washers, but am worried that standard fasteners may not withstand the heat.

Haynes Forest Products
02-20-2010, 01:00 PM
I used SS bolts, washers and nut on the oil fired and they flaked apart over the first 2 years so SS isnt all that great. I would go with a grade 8 bolts and washer and put the nuts on the outside so the head takes all the heat. What type of insulation are you using?

maple flats
02-20-2010, 02:40 PM
Has anyone ever tried water glass to glue the ceramic blanket in place? Does the blanket hold together enough to do that, or does something need to go thru the blanket to hold it?

TC matt
02-20-2010, 03:11 PM
I was planning on using mineral wool. Also, thought of using some type of metal grating (knowing that it will likely warp, but is easily replaceable) to hold the insulation in place - less drill holes, bolts, etc.

Haynes Forest Products
02-20-2010, 06:23 PM
I would be inclined to get a small peice of expanded metal to hold it in place and it would help keep the logs that fall back against the door from ripping up the insulation.

KenWP
02-20-2010, 06:44 PM
I tried SS bolts on a crematorium once and they last for less time then regular steel. If they made ceramic bolts I would try those instead.
Amazing how hot the inside of a arch gets.

markct
02-20-2010, 06:50 PM
gota get the right stainless, the 18-8 stainless thats cheapest usualy doesnt take heat as well as 304 or 316 stainless does. my ceramic blanket is held to the door with 5 1/4-20 stainless bolts and 2 inch stainless sheetmetal squares as washers. they are glowing bright orange when ya open the door but they look just fine this being the second season. yea there black, but i can still read the writing on the heads! so they havent deteriorated and the sheet metal squares are fine too. i didnt want to put holes thru my door, so i welded on 1/4 inch coupling nuts to the inside to thread them into

TC matt
02-20-2010, 06:54 PM
after a bit of research on the web I found that there is a special heat-resistant type of SS - SS316Ti, and they make both fasteners and expanded metal from it for high temp applications. I found a couple of distributors and will call them on Monday to see how much. if anyone wants links, let me know.

highroadsyrup
02-20-2010, 07:43 PM
Our Small Brothers arc has some square shaped pins that are welded to the door. Stick the insulating blanket on over the pins and washers with square holes are inserted to hold the blanket in place. I need to find some as my doors need some attention.

RileySugarbush
02-20-2010, 07:44 PM
For mine I drilled and tapped right through the cast iron door and used stainless screws and washers through the ceramic blanket. I screwed them right into the door and ground off the threads that stuck through.

I just now took it apart since I'm making a new airtight front and they were in good shape after a couple of seasons. Just hardware store 18-8 stainless.

johnallin
02-20-2010, 09:33 PM
Just insulated the door on mine this week. I glued ceramic board to the front and used the cut out for the door. Sandwiched that between the door and a piece of 1/8" galvanized plate cut to same dimension. Drilled through the door, insulation and plate and used 2½" 1/4 -20 steel bolts with fender washers on the inside. Won't know how the fasteners will hold up till later this season - but it looks like it should work pretty well. Has to be better than nothing though.

WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER
02-21-2010, 08:38 PM
Our Small Brothers arc has some square shaped pins that are welded to the door. Stick the insulating blanket on over the pins and washers with square holes are inserted to hold the blanket in place. I need to find some as my doors need some attention.

They are called Iconel pins and washers. My spelling is probably wrong and someone can correct me on the spelling.

JohnsSugarShack
02-21-2010, 11:36 PM
johnallin so you drilled the door. I was going to but couldn't bring myself to putting a drill through the door. If you get a chance could you post a couple of pictures of your door? I'm still undecided but it definitely makes since to insulate the door.

muddyfootprints
02-22-2010, 07:30 AM
johnallin I'm in the same boat as johnsSugar. I just finished bricking my leader this weekend and am unsure of what to do with door. I would like to see what you did.

thanks

Turtlecreek
02-22-2010, 08:43 AM
I used 1/2 inch ceramic blanket. To fasten it I drilled my door and used steel rivets with heavy flat washers on the inside. The rivits I used were fat headed like 5/8 inch heads and the washers were from guidrails alng the road. After firing all day yeasterday it's still there, I'll have to see how it works for the rest of the season.

johnallin
02-22-2010, 09:09 AM
Johnsugarshack and Muddy. will post this evening. After hooking everything up, I ran the evaporator yesterday - boiled water with baking soda added and then just plain water to rinse- the door and handle never "glowed" as my half pint did and the door could be openned with a gloved hand. Ran it for about 4 hours and am happy with the way it turned out.

red maples
02-22-2010, 09:37 AM
I used 1" ceramic blanket and 1 1/4 " 10-24 ss machine screws and the largest fender ss washers I could find. On my doors I have webbing cast in so I drilled and tapped at those points 4 on each door I didn't driil all the way through. cut the blanket to fit and screwed them in place. no sheet metal inside works great those screws glow red though. but doors stay much cooler. I think the whole thing took about 30 minutes if that. easy

can handle them easy with welding gloves. they pretty much have become the sugarhouse gloves they rarely come off.

johnallin
02-22-2010, 05:57 PM
Johnssugarshack and muddy....
Here are the pictures of the insulated door on our 2x6 Leader Patriot. It worked great yesterday and doesn't take long to do.

I think the galvanized plate will help keep the insulation board in one piece. The stuff kind of flakes off if you get rough with it, and I thought firing could cause some damage, but it is probably not all that important as long as you have big enough washers or use expanded metal as was mentioned earlier. Hope this helps...

maple flats
02-22-2010, 06:50 PM
I used 1/2 inch ceramic blanket. To fasten it I drilled my door and used steel rivets with heavy flat washers on the inside. The rivits I used were fat headed like 5/8 inch heads and the washers were from guidrails alng the road. After firing all day yeasterday it's still there, I'll have to see how it works for the rest of the season.
Turtlecreek, do you think anyone will ever notice you took the washers from the guiderails? You must have had to get them in the dark of night.

johnallin
02-22-2010, 10:11 PM
Dave, I'm thinking they were just laying there, that would be one heck of a job to pull off without being noticed...those things got to be on there tighter than a three dollar pocket watch!

Turtlecreek
02-22-2010, 10:20 PM
There is nothing I mean nothing that can stop a backyarder from reaching his goal!! The guard rails just lean a bit on the one side, but you can't really notice! No actually I was working near where they just replaced the rails and they left a bunch of them lay, I thought I may be able to use them some where.

highroadsyrup
02-22-2010, 11:15 PM
They are called Iconel pins and washers. My spelling is probably wrong and someone can correct me on the spelling.

While installing the some new insulation under my pans Sunday, I actually found the invoice from 2002. The order # is 2BSTUD35 for the studs & EBWASH35 for the washers.