Ideal Stack Temp

[Mac]

I have read the threads I searched, looking to find out how you know what your ideal stack temp is. I know it will be different for each set up and that black smoke = low temp. But how do you folks figure what your ideal temp is. Or is it a "tighten it tll you strip the threads and then back it off a quarter turn" type of thing:) where you wait for flame out the top and then take a log offf the fire.. Any help thanks in advance.

[driske]

With clean pans and dry wood, the temp was 430F. As the pans fowled with soot the temp climbed, usually to around 750-800F. Obviously a lot of wasted heat leaving the rig once the soot layer accumulated.

[RileySugarbush]

It's different for everybody!

Think of it like a road trip.

Pedal to the floor and you get there quick, but spend a fortune on gas. That is 1200°F stack temps or higher.

Nice cruise through the country side. Take your time, easy on the throttle, no jack rabbit starts. You still get to Grandma's house, but it takes a while. Fuel efficient but slow. Think of that as 600°F at the stack or so


That analogy leaves out all sorts of details, but frames the choices we can make on a given rig.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

As stated before, it is different for everyone. I run mine from 1400 to 1800 degrees and some people think that is crazy and some run it at 700 to 800. I find I get the greatest evap rate at the highest stack temp I can get it too. Yes, I know I burn more wood but if I burn less wood and gph rate is less, it comes out the same so I would rather boil it off as quick as possible.

I run both pans 1.5 to 2 inches deep and still made mostly light syrup in a normal year.

[KenWP]

Another problem is what kind of gauge you use. I use one on the outside of the stack and it only goes to 900 degrees which is hot hot. The other gauge has a probe and takes the inside temp. So 900 outside is like 1600 or 1800 inside if I remember right. You basically have to decide whats good for you. With flue pans and such you need to have lots of hot gasses going towards the back which will mean a high stack temp. If you have a short pan with no flues you don't need to have it roaring as much.

[3rdgen.maple]

After 3 generations of this addiction there is one thing I have learned. I could care less what my stack temp is as long as the pans have a raging boil in them and syrup is pouring out the end.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

After 3 generations of this addiction there is one thing I have learned. I could care less what my stack temp is as long as the pans have a raging boil in them and syrup is pouring out the end.

I agree with you on that one but it is interesting to watch the stack temperature. It gives you a good indication of how well your evaporator is performing once you figure out your ideal stack temperature. I use an internal stack thermometer and here is the link for it:

http://www.condar.com/probe_meters.html

I use the flueguard thermometer.

[michiganfarmer]

Ive never considered stack temp. It never even entered my mind. I might havfe to check into it

[Mac]

Thanks for all the input, Brandon.... thanks for the link, I will be ordering one...
Mac

[diehlhollow]

When we were fireing with wood we would mix the wood around to get the highest amount of heat as possible. At night you could normaly see the top of the chimeny red and a flame comming out about 6 feet. But now we switched over to used oil. Not quite as hot at the top of the stack but still more efficient.

[RileySugarbush]

Yes thanks Brandon. I just ordered one too.

We were using an external mag stack thermometer, and knew we were running hot when it would demagnetize and fall off!

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I have a stainless stack and the link for the Condar flue guard stack thermometer I posted has a magnet and it sticks really good to the stainless stack as the probe goes inside.

Tapper turned me on to this one about 3 or 4 years ago.

[sapman]

On oil, my temps used to be around 6-700 on 4.5 gph oil. I've upped it to 6gph for better production, but temps now are around 1000.

Tim