View Full Version : cinder block arch flue
beerbrewer99
02-14-2010, 03:01 PM
Hi everyone,
I have a newbie question (this will be my 2nd year - I made 1 gal last year).
I have seen many pictures and descriptions of cinder block arches in this site and other websites but I haven't found where is it detailed how to attach a flue pipe to a block setup. Every pic I've seen does a magnificent job of showing stacked blocks and the pans from a front or side angle view to show how to build one but there's usually no picture of the flue junction (or if there is it doesn't show enough to give a clue how to do it)
Also, every description (including Rick Mann's book and mother earth news) just says something like "and attach the flue to the back".
Any hints are much appreciated! Thanks!
-Mark
morningstarfarm
02-14-2010, 03:09 PM
when you stack the blocks leave a half block out in the center of the back. lay a short piece of your stack pipe in it and fill around it with fireplace caulk or mortar..let dry/ cure and attach your stack to the short piece with an elbow...good luck
PerryW
02-14-2010, 04:26 PM
here's some pictures of one way to do it.. (you can thank valleyman from CT)
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=981&d=1257776580
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=983&d=1257776597
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=984&d=1257776606
Groves
02-14-2010, 05:15 PM
I just used blocks for my stack, too.
Here's the best picture I have from the front. We removed those flat cement pavers you see in the picture.
http://matthewgroves.com/Hobbies/Sugaring09.html#2
Here's a pic from the rear. You're basically using the holes in the blocks to allow air to pass through while using the block to hold up the flue, too.
http://matthewgroves.com/Hobbies/Sugaring09.html#3
PerryW
02-14-2010, 06:15 PM
Groves,
love the idea of using the cinderblock as the stack. At least you don't have to worry about it rusting out.
Groves
02-14-2010, 06:22 PM
Don't think it's a world changer. These blocks crack pretty easily with high heat. It's what was on hand, and gets the smoke out of my eyes.
You can set another pan on top and preheat, or some pavers on top to regulate flow.
Tim in NY
02-14-2010, 07:31 PM
Looks like a well designed set up. Two questions, 1) how did you remove the pans when they needed to be emptied? and 2) where did you get the pans, and how much did they cost?
Thanks!
Tim
Groves
02-14-2010, 07:47 PM
Last year we ran 4 pans on the arch, one on top of the stack. I bought a few more cinder blocks (ok, concrete), and extended the length to have all 5 on the arch.
I get my pans from a restaurant supply store here in town. I just check in every once in a while and see if they have used ones. Depending on condition they're $1 to $10 dollars used. I only use the 6inch pans, but I try to keep the level less than 2 inches, so I could probably go with 4inch deep pans. We're pretty much at the mercy of the used section of the store.s
I don't empty any pans until the end of the batch when there's no more sap and the level in the pans is getting too low for comfort.
At that point, I use a screwdriver to get under a pan, lift the pan far enough to pour into another one or several otherss, dunk the pan into a vat of water enough to fill it partially, then back on the fire.
I only keep it on the fire to maintain the integrity of the smoke flow so I don't have a pan sized hole on top of the fire.
Obviously, you can't keep it on the fire empty unless you like burnt pans and are wealthy, so some water keeps the fire at bay. It's also a convenient place to get the current boiling temp of water if you use that method.
Eventually the pans all get consolidated into one and you can finish on the fire or remove it to finish elsewhere.
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