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View Full Version : Tap hght and tubing length for 5 gal buckets



BoarsNest
02-14-2010, 03:12 PM
I have my 5/16 tubing and want to cut it to length before I get into the woods. I am going to use 5 gallon buckets with plastic spiles and tubing. I assume I want the tubing as straight as possible down to the bucket.

What height do you typically tap your trees?
How long is the tubing from the tree to the bucket?

kinalfarm
02-14-2010, 03:21 PM
i make mine up with the taps and y's on the tubing before i go into the woods. i use 18 inch drops from my tap to my y. and 2' from the y to the bucket 2 taps into each bucket if you plan on collecting after each heavy run if not than only do one but i do to. i tap my trees at or a little above waist hight. i also drill the hole in my lid so that the tubing goes in snug to prevent rain water from getting into your sap.

MapleME
02-14-2010, 03:24 PM
You can really tap at any height, I think the most important thing you need to consider is the snow around the trees. A few years ago I cut everything before I got out to the trees. For the most part everything was good, however as the snow melted (and the bucket got lower) some of my tubes become too short and I was cutting new lengths of tubing.

So as height on the tree is not a big deal, I think the anatomy of your tree and the bucket placement around the tree are what to consider. Some of my trees I put taps in all the way around, but since they are on a hill, I put all the buckets on one side of the tree, sorta bundled together. So, I have 2 really long lengths of tubing, and 2 shorter.

I think its easier to bring the loop of tubing and a set of cutters out to your trees and do it as you go, or you may waste more than you think.

You will be happy with this method- its a great way to collect.

MapleME


I have my 5/16 tubing and want to cut it to length before I get into the woods. I am going to use 5 gallon buckets with plastic spiles and tubing. I assume I want the tubing as straight as possible down to the bucket.

What height do you typically tap your trees?
How long is the tubing from the tree to the bucket?

kinalfarm
02-14-2010, 03:54 PM
i always shovel the snow out where i put my bucket because i have gone back to collect and it had rained the nite before and the snow melted under the buckets and some fell over and others were put on such an angle that they were only able to get half full. good luck!

BoarsNest
02-14-2010, 05:15 PM
Thanks for the info. I've seen other posts about holding the buckets in place with rocks on the top and maybe bungee cords to the tree. Any other tips you might have?

kinalfarm
02-14-2010, 06:47 PM
your arch looks sweet! do you have a float valve? i had a heck of a time keeping the right depth of sap in mine so i put in a universal brass float valve hooked to a copper float ball, only had about 30 bucks into it and it works awsome aways keeps the same level and dumps faster when you start to dra off syrup so the syrup always comes out the same speed. i just googled brass float valve and i think i paid 25 for it and the copper toilet tank float ball was about 7 special order from ace hardware. you just put a piece of 1/4/20 all thread between. i dont have a pic on my comp. of it but i have one on my cell phone if you want to see it icould send it to you.

whalems
02-14-2010, 07:15 PM
I put the holes in the side of the bucket near the top, Just below where the lid snaps on. That way when snow and rain gets on the lid it dosen't leek around the tube. Just a thought.

PerryW
02-14-2010, 07:25 PM
I assume I want the tubing as straight as possible down to the bucket.

I wouldn't worry too much about going straight down into the pail; just try not to have the tubing going uphill. It's best to leave a little slack to allow tapping the tree in different places each year.

BoarsNest
02-14-2010, 07:31 PM
your arch looks sweet! do you have a float valve? i had a heck of a time keeping the right depth of sap in mine so i put in a universal brass float valve hooked to a copper float ball, only had about 30 bucks into it and it works awsome aways keeps the same level and dumps faster when you start to dra off syrup so the syrup always comes out the same speed. i just googled brass float valve and i think i paid 25 for it and the copper toilet tank float ball was about 7 special order from ace hardware. you just put a piece of 1/4/20 all thread between. i dont have a pic on my comp. of it but i have one on my cell phone if you want to see it icould send it to you.

Thanks on the arch. Hopefully I get the brick done this week and can move it to my camp next Saturday. I don't have a float valve yet. I talked to our Grainger rep and he's looking for something cheap. I would appreciate your picture.

Z/MAN
02-14-2010, 11:43 PM
Thanks on the arch. Hopefully I get the brick done this week and can move it to my camp next Saturday. I don't have a float valve yet. I talked to our Grainger rep and he's looking for something cheap. I would appreciate your picture.

Here is the link to the float valve at Grainger.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2X524

BoarsNest
02-15-2010, 08:35 PM
Thanks, that looks like the same one that Kinalfarm sent me a picture of.

Dill
02-15-2010, 10:02 PM
That has to be one of the prettiest homemade evaporators I've seen. You quite a craftsman. Also the filter tank is nice, if you have time you could probably sell some on here.

3rdgen.maple
02-15-2010, 10:47 PM
BoarsNest nice job on that evaporator. One word of caution is to put it in place then brick it. It would be very heavy to move and also you would take a chance of tweaking it with all the weight in it when trying to move it.

Haynes Forest Products
02-15-2010, 11:23 PM
Get the copper float for the valve shown. They have plastic but I think it would get soft and deform. or spend the big $$$ for the SS

BoarsNest
02-16-2010, 12:20 PM
Thanks for the comments on the evaporator, it helps when you have the right equipment and guys to work with.

valleyman
02-16-2010, 02:56 PM
very nice evaporator.
Nothing much to add but a pic of one of my trees w/tubing into 5 gal pail. 5 feet would be good if you want to precut. Of course depends on snow cover. I cut mine at 4' and they're almost to short.

BoarsNest
02-17-2010, 08:07 PM
very nice evaporator.
Nothing much to add but a pic of one of my trees w/tubing into 5 gal pail. 5 feet would be good if you want to precut. Of course depends on snow cover. I cut mine at 4' and they're almost to short.



I precut some of mine at 3-1/2' to start. I will cut the rest after I put a few in. I see you drilled the top of the cover, do you get water in? I've seen others that drill in the side because they've had rain or snow get into their sap.

kinalfarm
02-17-2010, 08:27 PM
if you drill the hole in the lid so the tubing fits very snug its waterproof and you dont need to worry i think its 3/8 that will do it but im not sure

kinalfarm
02-17-2010, 08:31 PM
get a float valve made in USA others are cheap and not well made. and def. go with the copper float ball mine works good.

BoarsNest
02-17-2010, 09:15 PM
if you drill the hole in the lid so the tubing fits very snug its waterproof and you dont need to worry i think its 3/8 that will do it but im not sure

I drilled a 7/16 in the side and that fit pretty snug. I wonder if 3/8 would tend to colapse the tube too much.

lpakiz
02-17-2010, 09:25 PM
7/16 fits the tubing just right.
I drilled the hole in the cover, because the pail always tips a bit and I put the tube/hole on the high side so it sheds water. Then I unsnap the lid and leave it hang there on the tube while I empty the pail.