Pipe Or Hose??

[gunnergo4th]

Wondering if I should use PVC pipe or hose to feed float box? The 325 gal storage tank is outside and a couple of feet above the flue pan for gravity feed. The feed line will be 1" and the evaporator is a new maple pro raised flue 2x6

[markct]

my evap is fed with copper, coupled with short sections of silicone hose where it goes to the float box and preheater to allow it to flew and be easily disasembled. i like copper cause if it freezes you can thaw it alot easier too

[ejmaple]

i would use poly pipe instead of pvc. if the pvc freezes it will crack, poly pipe has more flexabilty. either way put a union on each side to allow to drain.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I might be crazy so please help me out. When we do sprinkler systems we use PVC Because its OK for NON POTABLE water use. Does that mean its not food grade??? Now if you go to Home Depot and ask for PVC for your water system they will tell you to use the CPVC that is for inside the house FOOD GRADE:lol:

[gunnergo4th]

So what does everyone else use for plumbing there feed tanks to there evaporators? My tank is outside and there will be about 3feet outside then inside. There will be shut off and drain at tank and a shut off inside at the float box. I want to do it right the first time and have thought about copper pipe as it would be easier to thaw if it freezes. Suggestions??

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

You can also put some heat tape on the feed line. Heat tape is also good on the valve especially if you are leaving sap in it outside all night to keep it from freezing and busting. I have it taped all on the underside of my feed tank as I almost never leave any sap in it, but my sugarhouse is on the north side and it is usually colder inside it than outside with the full concrete floor. The heat tape on the underside keeps it from freezing up into around the outside and will keep most of the ice out of the tank.

[3rdgen.maple]

If you put a valve at the feed tank before you connect your lines the line will drain and there will be nothin in it to freeze. It would be the valve and what is before it you will have to worry about freezing. Some heat like brandon suggested will work on that area but use caution and by the best stuff cause it has been known to cause potential fires. My head tank is inside and I used 1 1/4 clear braided hose that is safe for potable water.
Haynes you are not crazy at all on the pvc deal. Seems there is no end to the madness. The old timers put metal pipe in our houses and then we are told it is not safe, then the pvc craze cam along and now that is not safe, I am just waiting for the word from the government that pex,cpvcand copper are not safe either and there will be a new generation of soon to be unsafe water lines on the market.

[PerryW]

I put the valve as close as possible to the feed tank and use black plastic 1-1/4" plastic pipe to feed the float box. When I'm done boiling, I close the valve and disconnect the pipe from the float box and lower the end into a sap bucket. This drains the feed hose to prevent freezing.

I usually drain my tank completely, but if (for some reason) I can't, I will point a light bulb at the valve to keep it ice-free overnight.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I do have my valve immediately after the 90 degree elbow coming out of my tank.

[maple flats]

PVC vs CPVC- PVC is only rated for cold water, rated 100 psi@73F, will not hold hot water, it softens too easily, CPVC will hold according to it's rating 180F at 100 psi. PVC IS used for cold water lines, most often underground, in conduit or direct burial. The 2 are not the same size either. 3/4" in PVC is much bigger hole than 3/4" CPVC. I can't explain that one. Might be like horse power, some horses are bigger. I used to have an old 3 HP Briggs Model ZZ engine, it had lots more power than today's 3 HP. The problem however PVC and CPVC are both now products and not now vs then.
As far as what the use, I too like copper because of the heat factor if it freezes. I use pieces of vinyl tubeing cut to about 3" long pieces for couplings rather than solder, they come apart and re assemble easily when needed. I have the original milk tank valve on my 415 gal elevated feed tank, after the valve I reduce to 3/4" copper and go to the evap with that. I have thought of increasing to 1" but haven't yet. Never had a problem with the 3/4 (yet). Sometimes it freezes, I warm the copper withot taking apart, usually works. If not I pull it apart and thaw with a propane torch. Outside I do have 3/3" thick wall pipe insulation, just loosly over it. Inside I don't need it.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I use copper and have a small section of clear plastic at the float box that I can see from across the room so I can see how the flow is doing. You will get to know how well things are cooking along and when its EMPTY:o

[farmall h]

Rearranged my plastic stock tanks(not galvi) and ss bulk tank in the sugarhse today. Going to plumb everything with 1" copper. No more frozen pvc & heat tapes. Hopefully just wand it with the torch.