Temporary fix for backyard operation

[wnybassman]

For the last bunch of years I have been boiling on this set-up and it was working OK with the pans that I had. The blocks that I put in did not have to be 100% level for this system. (good thing)

A few weeks ago I made the quick decision to order a 2x4 pan. It is not a divided pan with channels, but does have a separated back and front section.

I disassembled the old set-up today and started tossing the level on things, and discovered I wasn't too picky about level way back when when I built this. Kinda too late to do a complete overhaul, besides the ground is pretty frozen to try anything major anyway. I am hoping to limp through this year and do something different for the future.

The metal pieces on the block are level. Both sides drop about an 1 1/2" from back to front. Can anyone think of a temporary fix to get a pan sitting somewhat level on what I have to work with? Fortunately side to side I am relatively level. I have a couple ideas kicking around in my head, but would like to hear other brainstorming too.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s163/wnybassman/maple/firepit1.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s163/wnybassman/maple/firepit2.jpg

[C.Wilcox]

To fix the existing set up I would use small pieces of tile, metal, crushed tin cans, etc. to shim under the top row of blocks until they sit level.

[walkerpa]

I would shim in-between the top and bottom block. You could use anything that will not burn, maybe dirt.

[Jeff E]

This would be a pain, but it would work.
Get 10 Full size fire bricks, and masonry blade for your skill saw, and cut wedges as needed to get your taper.

Pulling the pan off when your done may be tricky, but what the heck, just put the brick back for the next batch!:)

[RileySugarbush]

Replace the 2x6s with split firebricks ( about the same thickness) and level. Stuff ceramic blanket in the gaps between pan and blocks.

Done

[NedL]

I think sand or dirt is the cheapest/easiest fix.

[BarrelBoiler]

don't know what your weather is going to be like but could you level it with the proper mortar or refractory cement when its warm and tent it with some bubble wrap and a blanket or two and a couple of 100watt light bulbs while it sets up? just an idea

bubble wrap has a lot of dead air cells makes for good insulation

[maple ridge tappers]

I agree with Rileysugarbush. Two split firebricks in front and ceramic insulation, tucked under the pan, would be the most simple, and effective fix for your problem.

[Z/MAN]

Replace the metal strips you have sitting on it now with two pieces of angle iron leveled with bricks and fill in the voids with sand.

[KenWP]

Build a form that matches the taper and fill it with ready mix cement. You could drill a few holes into the other brick and put small lengths of rebar to hold it in place.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Im with Ken on a solution but I would pull the first row and pour a level wedge between the bricks so if it starts to crumble it wont end up falling all over the place when the cement is setting up CARFULLY SET THE TOP ROW so its rock solid and you can do a final level with a rubber mallet GO SLOW PLUS can you align the bricks by running a pipe ( fence rail) type thru it to stabilize the brick?

[wnybassman]

Build a form that matches the taper and fill it with ready mix cement. You could drill a few holes into the other brick and put small lengths of rebar to hold it in place.

That was one of my thoughts too. I know it will crack terribly though, but for one year.........I might be able to live with it.


I like the shimming between the layer suggestion too, I wasn't thinking about that one.

[vtsnowedin]

Just adding to the list of good ideas. Get a couple of bags of mortar mix and a few split fire brick. Mix the mortar with hot water but mix it very dry and stiff. . Pull the top row off and place a leveling course of mortar and some pieces of the split bricks where they fit in on the low end. Reset your top row of blocks and add a top course of mortar to level. Cap with angle iron or flat bar if you have it.Make the top of the mortar or iron dead level if you can. Cover with blankets ,bubble wrap, plastic, and hay, what ever, and stick a drop light in the bottom to keep it warm for three days. You shoud be good to go. You ought to be able to get at least an inch closer with the first course and get right on with the second one.

[VA maple guy]

vtsnowedin has the best fix.

[TapME]

use the metal you have and add 2 strips to make a frame the weld 4 nuts (1/2'') and put the bolts in and use them to level you pan. When it thaws you can adjust it again. Fill the gap with fiberglass insulation and add bricks to line the frame and keep the insulation in and your golden. Just my thought

[3rdgen.maple]

I would do something along the lines as others have stated with the cement between the blocks but would skip the cement and go straight for some refactory cement that will withstand the heat. It should last you years that way.

[Big_Eddy]

My arch looks similar to yours. It's dry set - no mortar.

I build it every year on non-level frozen earth. I start with a couple of buckets of clear stone. I pour the stone out on the ground under where my blocks will be, then level it out. In my case, back right is high, and my front left needs about 4" of gravel to bring it up. I then set my first row of blocks on the gravel and check for level. If it's off - I tip the low blocks up and scoop a bit more under the low edge. Once I get the base level, the rest goes in fast.

Nice thing about the gravel, is that once you have a few fires and the ground thaws under the arch, it's quick and easy to make minor adjustments if it settles unevenly.

You could use sand or gravel if you had it thawed. Clear stone doesn't freeze hard, so I stick a couple of pails in the back shed in the fall to have come spring.

[Bemis]

I use a dry laid arch that I also set up and tear down each year. This year I lined the inside joints of the blocks with 2" wide standard roll insulation meant for pipe wrapping. It has held up pretty well, and does a pretty good job at keeping drafts down through the block gaps.

[wnybassman]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I think I will try to remove the top layer and shim up accordingly using various heat resistant materials. I hate to do anything with mortar or refractory cement with everything so cold, besides I fully intend on re-doing it this summer anyway.

I'll let you know how I make out.

New pan is scheduled to be delivered on Monday.

Warm air is on backorder.

[BarrelBoiler]

with your set upthat would seem to be the better idea
you can plug the gaps with ashes or insulation
should work out

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

My arch looks similar to yours. It's dry set - no mortar.

I build it every year on non-level frozen earth. I start with a couple of buckets of clear stone. I pour the stone out on the ground under where my blocks will be, then level it out. In my case, back right is high, and my front left needs about 4" of gravel to bring it up. I then set my first row of blocks on the gravel and check for level. If it's off - I tip the low blocks up and scoop a bit more under the low edge. Once I get the base level, the rest goes in fast.

Nice thing about the gravel, is that once you have a few fires and the ground thaws under the arch, it's quick and easy to make minor adjustments if it settles unevenly.

You could use sand or gravel if you had it thawed. Clear stone doesn't freeze hard, so I stick a couple of pails in the back shed in the fall to have come spring.

I used a backyard operation for many years when I was a kid and just used 8" cinderblocks and they worked great. I would do the same thing, did out a footer every year and level it up with some loose gravel and then you are good to go! I would put it up and take it down every year and made myself a 3 sided building out of plastic with 4 white oak poles for the corners a a couple of makeshift trusses and side supports from front to back on each side.

[retubjb]

why not use some 2x2 or 2x3 angle iron, let the vertical edge hang down inside the opening and just shim up the horizontal side level? This seems like it would be temporary. If you are worried about them falling in, you could weld or bolt some cross members between them.

[wnybassman]

My new pan arrived today so I took it out to set it on the fire pit. After I did that I think I'm going with the propping up the pan where I need to and filling the gaps with ceramic wool like someone suggested.

We have a stove and fireplace shop in town so I went down there this afternoon to get a few split bricks (because 1 1/4" was about perfect for shimming up the pan) and to see about getting some ceramic wool. I have never been there before, nor know the owners (small shop). So I told what I needed and he had me follow him out back in the storage area and as we walked I told him what I was going to be doing with it. So he lopped me off about 4 square feet of 1" wool and got 4 split bricks for me and said just to drop off a little syrup and we'll call it even.8-O

I can do that! Thanked him up and down and came back home. I propped up the front corners with just the two bricks and that makes things awfully close to level. The way the big blocks are, I can also slide a brick in about a third of the way back for additional support.

The picture is before I started messing around with the small bricks.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s163/wnybassman/maple/newpan2010.jpg

[kinalfarm]

nice pans who built them? was it paul from stainless steel creations or wegner?

[wnybassman]

nice pans who built them? was it paul from stainless steel creations or wegner?

Paul did. I had him put a solid partition in to separate the front and back. Also got a drain port for both compartments and a thermometer port on the front section.

In the future I may have the back section divided into thirds and the front sections into halves for a fully functioning pan.

This will work great for now though.