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SilverLeaf
02-03-2010, 10:26 AM
I'd just like to do an informal survey to see how many folks are using brass fittings vs stainless steel, for draw-off valves and the like.

I know the direction we should eventually be going is stainless steel because of the whole "lead in brass" thing, blah blah, but it just seems to me that the amount of contact time is so low that it really shouldn't be an issue? It's definitely more expensive, not to mention a hassle, to find SS fittings (no hardware store - not even the bix box ones - around me carry any).

What are you folks using?

PerryW
02-03-2010, 10:29 AM
the same as all the valves on my domestic water in my house: All brass fittings

Father & Son
02-03-2010, 10:39 AM
If you don't have a local supplier a good place to find stainless fittings and valves is www.buyfittingsonline.com

Jim

Haynes Forest Products
02-03-2010, 10:45 AM
I use brass only because I didnt want my drawoff sticking way out. With all the nipples 90s and such it was to big. Copper was a better fit. It wasnt the cost because I have some sanitary valves that cost alot but are to big. I toss my copper and brass set up in the vinegar at the start of each season. Im wondering if the natural patena would be a better barier.

JohnsSugarShack
02-03-2010, 03:20 PM
I have all stainless fittings to start with because that's what came with my new evaporator. I plan on keeping everything stainless if possible. In hopes to get my SS feed tank next year.

Jeff E
02-03-2010, 04:37 PM
Stainless on the draw off, still some copper on the line from the feed to the evaporator.

KenWP
02-03-2010, 05:39 PM
I use brass since SS is hard to find around here. I found a source for SS fitting finally this year and they are not to bad in price. One place is my local feed store and the other is a place that sells hog equipment. They sell lots of SS tube and pipe and fittings.

Haynes Forest Products
02-03-2010, 05:43 PM
I just lost out on a bid for 8 SS 3/4 ball valves on Ebay $61.00 you can get them cheap.

Homestead Maple
02-03-2010, 08:20 PM
If you don't have a local supplier a good place to find stainless fittings and valves is www.buyfittingsonline.com

Jim

I see that a 2 inch, 150psi tee from buy fittings is $21.59. I just bought some 2 inch 150 psi tee's from this place and they were $12.61 reg., $11.98 on sale. Here's their site;
www.mainlandvalveandfitting.com
Click on their catalog and search for tee or whatever else you might need for stainless.

DrTimPerkins
02-03-2010, 08:54 PM
I just lost out on a bid for 8 SS 3/4 ball valves on Ebay $61.00 you can get them cheap.

Whether you get fittings from EBay, a catalog, your maple equipment manufacturer or dealer, or the local hardware store, be careful that you get what you think you're getting. A chrome-plated brass valve looks an awful lot like a SS valve unless you look very closely. You might just find out that the bargin you got wasn't such a good deal after all.

ABS5405
02-03-2010, 08:54 PM
I see that a 2 inch, 150psi tee from buy fittings is $21.59. I just bought some 2 inch 150 psi tee's from this place and they were $12.61 reg., $11.98 on sale. Here's their site;
www.mainlandvalveandfitting.com
Click on their catalog and search for tee or whatever else you might need for stainless.

Just watch out when buying cheap stainless valves some have very small hole inside. I saw an 1.25 inch tap that had about 1 inch or less hole in valve. FULL PORT are better, more money too.

Woodland Acres
02-03-2010, 09:29 PM
To check for real stainless use a magnet.If it sticks to it it is only coated.

3rdgen.maple
02-03-2010, 09:44 PM
Stainless Steel on the evaporator, brass on holding tank and bottler. Haynes I cleaned the petina off the bottler one year when my dad was running things and he got really mad. I clean it now that I have taken over. All I can picture is a customer watching me fill a bottle up with this funky green thing with syrup coming out of it. Maybe I will just switch it out this year to stainless.

BoarsNest
02-03-2010, 09:47 PM
I am using all stainless, since the arch and pans I'm making are stainless I thought brass would look out of place.

SilverLeaf
02-04-2010, 11:00 AM
Thanks, all, for the input! This post has been very informative. It's especially helpful to find some alternative sources for SS fittings. At the moment I'm leaning in the SS direction. Better butter up the wife a bit before writing that check though...:lol:

vtsnowedin
02-04-2010, 03:45 PM
The Grimm lighting I have still has black iron drawoffs and flue drain. probably the ones that came with the first set of pans in 1965. Come to think of it every rig I have ever boiled on had black iron slide valves for draw offs. Something to upgrade when I make enough syrup to break even but not a priority this year or probably next.

softmaple
02-04-2010, 04:00 PM
I have found 2 really inexpensive place for stainless fittings and valves.
www.discovervalve.com (http://www.discovervalve.com) 1/2 inch stainless for 15.00 and 3/4 for 20.00. its 316ss but there located in CA. i orded it on tuesday and got it on thursday the same week though the USPS. fedex took 9 days on a prior purchace from them. Its a great place and I have no worries.
also www.becrowley.com (http://www.becrowley.com) in springfield ma is cheeper on most fittings then www.buyfittingsonline.com (http://www.buyfittingsonline.com) but you have to call, no internet ordering.

heus
02-04-2010, 07:22 PM
My new 2x6 from Patrick Phaneuf has brass valves. So does my finisher.

KenWP
02-04-2010, 07:40 PM
Try this link the other is spelled wrong sort of.

http://www.discovervalve.com/

They also have no lead brass valves around so that could be what's being used. They are only a few dollars more and way cheaper then SS.

SilverLeaf
02-11-2010, 02:02 PM
That "no lead brass" thing you mentioned, Ken, really caught my attention (didn't know there was such a thing). In the end, I just couldn't pull the trigger on the SS valve, and sprung for the cheaper lead-free brass valves. I'm way over budget for the year as it is...

One more question though: when I attach the valves to the pans, how necessary is it to put some kind of sealant on the threads? Will it seal adequately enough just by screwing it in nice and tight?

WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER
02-11-2010, 05:16 PM
Screw it on tight, but not too tight. If it has any inclination to leak, the sugar will seal it off real quick. No need to use teflon.

WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER
02-11-2010, 05:17 PM
Screw it on tight, but not too tight. If it has any inclination to leak, the sugar will seal it off real quick. No need to use teflon.

PS You are pretty much at the mercy of the threads on how tight to get them. To tighten them, you have to make a full 360 degree turn. I usually don't put my stainless valves on much more than hand tight every year before I start.