Electric Motor

[backyardsugarer]

I have an sp ll with a 3/4 horse motor on it. I have a 1.5 horse brand new electric motor that would be more dependable. Can I make the switch without hurting the pump? Also will the larger motor = more cfm? The pulleys on the motors are the same size.


Chris

[Haynes Forest Products]

The size of the motor wont hurt the pump as long as you dont increase the RPMs. The more HP that you have will keep the HIGHER HGs from slowing the pump down keeping the CFM rate higher. BUT BUT Chuck what do you meam What I mean is as the HGs go higher the lower the CFMs will go because the less gas/air gets into the system the less CFMs you will generate or use:) :) Always look for the pumps that will generate higher HGs and worry about the CFMs out in the bush stoping leaks. BIG pumps dont always mean high HGs. Most dairy pumps were a compremise between mederate HGs and CFMs. We in the Maple indudtry want HIGH HGs and moderate CFMs. It all falls on your sholders to design a system that is as air tight as possible. Releasers, sap ladders and lift tanks all rob both HGs and CFMs so plan wisely.

MORE HGS = MORE HEAT SO PLAN ON COOLING IT IF YOU RUN THE PUMP HARDER

[lpakiz]

Be sure the replacement motor is the same RPM. Most are 1725 or 3450 RPM.
This data should be on an information tag on the motors. Otherwise, speed is speed. The 1.5 will use more electricity, tho.

[Brent]

If the old motor is really old, it may look like nothing but most real old motors had more copper and iron in them and as long as they are ball bearing, they're more reliable than current motors, where competition has reduced everything to fine line between lower costs and statistical reliability ( aka failure rates)
You might see a very tiny bit of improvement under full load, but you'll have to look real close. Most new motors don't have the slip ratio that old motors had. Slip ratio is roughly explained as rpm drop under full load.

[Russell Lampron]

With the SP-11 the rpm of the pump head determines the cfm it can pull. If the 3/4 hp motor maintains the rpm's and works don't change it. If the 1.5 hp motor is the same rpm as the 3/4hp motor you can have it ready to go if needed. If the 1.5 hp motor turns faster or slower the pulleys will need to changed to keep the pump head rpm's the same.

[backyardsugarer]

Good Idea Russ, don't fix what is not broken. I will have the 1.5 ready to go if need be.

Chris

[Haynes Forest Products]

ONE more thing check the Phase on the motor. I got my junkyard Gast pump last week from my buddy and was all jazzed about the $100.00 price and it was complete 3/4 HP. cleaned up nice right down to the 3 phase tag:mad:

[Russell Lampron]

Chris I have a 1.5 hp capacitor start/capacitor run motor on my SP-22 that is pretty old. With help from Acer we changed it over to 220 volts. I used it all of last season without a problem. Most of the time it was running 24 hours a day for several days in a row. I have a 2 hp motor on stand-by but it is only capacitor start which isn't as heavy duty.

[KenWP]

Haynes from my experience a 2 phase works on 3 phase power but 3 phase won't work on 2 phase. Neighbour used to borrow my pressure washer when his went down but I couldn't borrow his as it wouldn't run. Used to tick me off big time.

[Brent]

single phase and 3 phase motor absolutely cannot be used interchangeably either way.

You can run a 3 phase motor from 220/1/60 if you get a phase converter in between, but the 3 phase motor must be 220 volt also.

In Canada 95% of 3 phase motors are 600 Volt. The prairie provinces and most small industrial shops in the US are 220/3/60.

[KenWP]

These motors were 220 3 phase. They are cheaper to run. Depends if your near a old feild battery in Alberta to have 3 phase. My farm ran off a single electric wire to the property. In 1986-88 they took out all the double wires and put in the single wire system as it was more reliable as the wind can't wrap a single wire around anything.