Installing a new 2x6 Raised Flue

[JohnsSugarShack]

Things went well today, got the arch in the sugar house leveled, stack installed and about 2 thirds of the arch board installed. I'm going to finish the arch board and hopefully get the bricking done. I have a couple of questions as far as the front. How do you insulate the front above the door? Should I use a high temp silicone to hold the board in place? I plan on putting brick on each side of the door. Also I only have one baffle that directs the heat up to the flue pan. I have roughly 31" from that baffle to the back of the flue pan. Should I add another baffle in the back which would be built out of fire brick and if so how far forward from the back of the flew pan should I install it? And should it be vertical angled like the front baffle?:D

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

John,
Fill the back of the evaporator up with vermiculite or sand and then cover it with brick or a thin layer of mortar. There should be about an inch clearance under the flues do that the hot gases and smoke go through the flues, not under them. At the back you will have to open it back up again so the smoke can get into the stack efficiently (sufficient draft).

[johnallin]

John, looks like we have the same evaporator - Leader 2x6with Patriot raised flue pans - and are on about the same pace as far as installation. It would be good to compare notes as the season progresses. I spent 2 years on a half pint, 1 on a small box stove and this is my first "real" arch. New sugar house to boot this year.

Did you decide not to brick up the "U" shaped thing that leader has in the directions? I plan on leveling and installing my stack tommorow, any tricks on getting the stack sections together? I had a 10" offset section made for clearance at the back wall and just spent 15 minutes wrestling that piece trying to get it joined up with one of the straight sections. Geeezzzz that darn thing will not cooperate.

[JohnsSugarShack]

johnallin, Yes I decided not to build the "U" shape ash pit, but I did put 4" cinder blocks under the arch. Had no problem putting the stack together, I got lucky and didn't have to cut my stack every thing lined up and with the base stack and 2 sections of stack they fit snug into the roof jack. I finished putting the arch board in today, used (15) boards 1"x12"x3'. Started cutting brick stopped to get something to eat and now I'm headed back out to the sugar house to cut more brick. Taking pictures as I go. When I've finished I'll post them. Good luck on your install.:D

[JohnsSugarShack]

Well back in the house ruined a diamond blade, didn't even get 1/4 of the bricks in. Right now I think I could cut bricks better with a butter knife. So back to the hardware store in the morning for a new blade.:mad:

[KenWP]

Guestion one was it a wet blade or a dry blade. Wet blades burn out quick if used dry. I bought 20 of them to tile my floors in the house and used one and it's got lots of umpf left to it.

[johnallin]

John, Why the 4" cinder blocks and are they solid under the fire box? As you did not do the "U" shaped thing I'm assuming you were solid block under there with no openning, did you want more height for the evap?

I found that cutting bricks is not too hard if you score them on each side and snap them over a piece of 1/2" pipe or a gentle tap with the hammer. Are you cutting all the way through, must be one helluva mess out there.

[JohnsSugarShack]

The blade was for dry cutting, don't know what happened maybe just a bad one still frustrating. And yes the cinder blocks are solid, I wanted more height on the arch. Ole well just have to try again tomorrow.

[PerryW]

I cut those firebricks by using a hammer and chisel. Just take the chisel and lightly score a line across both sides then give the brick a whack with the hammer and it splits in half. Not a perfect cut, but good enough to mortar up with refractory cement.

[JohnsSugarShack]

PerryW, I ended up getting another blade but only scored the bricks and then broke them with a mason hammer. After doing a few it was a lot easier. Got the stove completely dry fitted with bricks except for the top layer which is going to be 1/2 bricks. Going to cut those after I mortar the others in place. One thing I'm not sure of is the space by the stack. I'm allowing 12" between the back of the flue pan to the rear baffle. Is this sufficient or am I restricting the air flow to much? This is my first evaporator and just trying to do it right. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h174/jtbennett_photos/2010%20Bricking%202x6/

[JohnsSugarShack]

Finished bricking 2 days ago, ended up leaving about 10" from the back of the flue pan to the rear baffle. Still have a heater going and 2 100 watt bulbs in the arch to make sure the mortar sets up. Now I'm debating on what to use for a feed tank. Can't afford a SS tank this year so going to do something temporary and then get my SS tank for next year. I'm thinking about using a 55gal barrel or a stock tank. Haven't decided yet. What should I use to plumb the tank with, copper or plastic? Any suggestions?

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

A 55 gallon drum would work good laying on its side and cheap. Drill a hole on the bottom side as close to the end as possible. Then thread an elbow up into the hole. If you get the hole just a tiny bit smaller than fitting, it should thread up into it good and a little caulk on both sides of the fitting, you should be good to go. Build the stand for the tank with a slight slope towards the drain end and try not to get the fitting up inside the tank more than 1/4" to 1/2" if you can. The more the fitting is on inside of tank, the more sap will stay in the tank when it is done draining.

You can cut out a nice size hole in the other side(now the top with it on it's side) and put hinges on one side of the cutout piece and a latch on other side and you have a good access hole for cleaning but the hinged door will keep the dirt/dust/bugs out. Drill a hole in it just big enough for the feed hose that you are pumping sap into the tank with and keep the hose in the tank and it will stay nice and clean.

[JohnsSugarShack]

Thanks Brandon, checked the arch yesterday afternoon and it had set up nice. I posted more pictures of the finished bricking on my picasaweb page. Plan on getting a couple 55gal barrels this Monday to use for a feed tank. Gota get going the seasons coming fast.

[barkeatr]

Nice work! I purchased a lapierre 2x6 and I will be firebricking like you before sugar season...

it looks like you put the bricks in dry, without mortar, and then you trowel the mortar in...is this correct?

barkeatr

[JohnsSugarShack]

barkeatr, I cut the bricks, fit them all in dry then I removed them and mortared them back into place. I did this because I didn't have any extras. I ended up using 2 30lb pails of mortar. Can't wait to do a test boil, but I still have to get my feed tank installed and clean things up a little. But I will be ready.:D

[barkeatr]

tHANKS FOR THE info. I have a lot of work to do..luckily spring doesnt arrive untill june.

[johnallin]

John,
Just looked at your pictures and have to say nice job on the bricking. Did you raise the area up behind the first ramp, looks like it's filled and then capped off. Leader is not too clear in the directions department, but I like what you did. For planning sake, how long did it take you to complete the board and bricking?

If I can get the glass installed in the sugar house doors in the morning, I have everything in place now - except warm weather - to begin bricking it all up, got a propane heater, lights, ceramic board, bricks and beer....

[JohnsSugarShack]

Thanks for the compliments. I agree the directions for bricking are very vague form Leader. I left a 10" opening in the back. The rear ramp or baffle has the same angle as the front ramp. I filled the space between the two ramps with vermiculite, then put a layer of 1" arch board and topped off with 1/2 bricks. I have approximately a 1" space between my flues and the brick. Figured if I don't get enough boil in the back of the flue pan I can always shorten up the 10" opening for next year. It took me 3 afternoons to complete the arch board and bricking, because I work nights and sleep in the morning. Two days and you should have this job done. Really looking forward to this season, plan on getting my feed tank installed this coming week.

[vtsnowedin]

Thanks for the compliments. I agree the directions for bricking are very vague form Leader. I left a 10" opening in the back. The rear ramp or baffle has the same angle as the front ramp. I filled the space between the two ramps with vermiculite, then put a layer of 1" arch board and topped off with 1/2 bricks. I have approximately a 1" space between my flues and the brick. Figured if I don't get enough boil in the back of the flue pan I can always shorten up the 10" opening for next year. It took me 3 afternoons to complete the arch board and bricking, because I work nights and sleep in the morning. Two days and you should have this job done. Really looking forward to this season, plan on getting my feed tank installed this coming week.
I don't think you will have to shorten that ten inch dimension. My old Grimm instructions for a 3x8 said to leave at least 24 inches between the back baffle and the edge of the stack casting. It needs as much open space to come down out of the flues as it needed on the ramp side to get up in there. I had mine all apart and had new sheet metal bent up for the back half and bottom of the arch but I kept the old pieces for a pattern and put the baffles back the way they were rivet hole by rivet hole. Try yours the way you have it but if it doesn't work the way you want it you may have to open it up not close it down. The season is apon us . Good luck.

[johnallin]

Thanks guys, I will go with 10" or so before the stack exit.

John, I forgot to ask, how many sheets of the ceramic board did you use? I bought 10 from Bascom's as a guestimate but you would know exactly as we have the same evaporator. Thinking if I'm short I can start on the firebox today and order more on Monday.

Think we just got an extra 2 weeks to get things done due to the weather, looks like we're in the freezer up here for the next two weeks or so.....that's just fine with me, got lots to do yet!

[JohnsSugarShack]

John, I used 15 sheets of arch board which was the same board that you ordered from Bascoms. I probably could have got away with 13 but I covered everything wanted to keep as much heat as possible inside the arch. I also put arch board on the front over the door, and then put a layer of mortar over it. If it doesn't hold up I'll put a piece of metal over it for next year. Also the reason I went with the 10" opening was from reading previous post on test boils, seems like some are going with even smaller openings. If need be I can change it. Post some pictures as you go and maybe I post a picture of my SHACK.:lol:

[johnallin]

Thanks for the reply John, your pictures are a great help. As I mentioned earlier - I got a better manual with a hammer I purchased in 1973 then with the new Leader Patriot.......which cost a few bucks more.

Oh by the way....noticed your arch is all stainless, it sure looks nice, mine is galvanized, only stainless is the stack.