glass bowl releaser

[PATheron]

Guys- I have a couple glass bowl releasers. They dont seem to have any checkvalves with them. What are the best check valves to buy and where do I buy them? Ill need one for the bottom and one for sap coming in right? Dennis- I remember seeing your pics but I dont remember seeing where you got the valves or what they were exactly. I need to get one of them working for my pal. Thanks Theron

[caseyssugarshack93]

id say a pvc check valve theron, for the inlet and maybe a flapper valve one for the discharge= probable would dump faster, thats what im doing to mine. i have 2 big ones and im going to use pvc on one of them that dont have the check valve,

[Dennis H.]

Theron I picked my flapper checkvalves up at a place called aquacave.

AquaCave Check Valve (http://www.aquacave.com/swing-check-valves-true-unionbr-clear-pvc-socket-connection-479.html)

One cool thing about them is that they are clear so you can see how the flapper is working.

My original idea was to use 2 on each releaser, one for the inlet and one for the dump side. Then I decided to try and make a dump flapper valve out of a 90 elbow, a few less fittings.

[farmall h]

Guys- I have a couple glass bowl releasers. They dont seem to have any checkvalves with them. What are the best check valves to buy and where do I buy them? Ill need one for the bottom and one for sap coming in right? Dennis- I remember seeing your pics but I dont remember seeing where you got the valves or what they were exactly. I need to get one of them working for my pal. Thanks Theron

Theron, are these Surge or Delaval milk releaser jars? If they are than what you will need is basically a check valve (back flow valve) kinda like the one you would put on your spring water line. Originally they came with a plastic check valve with a teflon ball in them. I have a brass check valve on the outlet and the original plastic valve on the inlet.

[farmall h]

Caseysugarshack93, are you the one that has the list of favorite maple you tube videos. I saw a glass releaser in one of the videos and noticed that it had a large 2"-3"inlet and possibly a 1/2" outlet. I have some concerns with my set-up.

[caseyssugarshack93]

yes thats my video it has a 1 inch outlet and a big inlet but mine has a elbow and has a flapper valve inside the stainless part and redueced down to 3/4, but if you have more taps than a 3/4 inch line can hander or whatever, then yo can go from like the 1 1/2 inlet and make up your own inlet system

[caseyssugarshack93]

yes thats my video it has a 1 inch outlet and a big inlet but mine has a elbow and has a flapper valve inside the stainless part and redueced down to 3/4, but if you have more taps than a 3/4 inch line can hander or whatever, then yo can go from like the 1 1/2 inlet and make up your own inlet system

[PATheron]

Mine are the larger ones. One is a universal and the other is a washer bender. I think the universal has a larger discharge. I think washer bender is a smaller discharge. Im going to go to my plumbing supply place and see what they have now that I see what you guys are doing. I thought there were valves under the stainless connections too but theres not. Thanks a lot for the info. Theron

[caseyssugarshack93]

therrrrrrrooooonnnnnnnn is yours like the ones in my video?

[farmall h]

Casey, I have the large one just like you have in the video plus I have a smaller more cylinder shaped, functions the same way as the big one. I guess my question is since I have very steep gravity feed (unlike your flat ground) is the jar keeping up with the flow from my 1" line? I noticed that when I was using it at the tail end of the season (that is when I installed it) I noticed there was a big charge of sap in the line. Maybe it isn't releasing from the jar fast enough...what are your thoughts? Is this what you use instead of a Lapierre? Also, do you think it is possible to run two in sequence?

[farmall h]

Theron, the small jar releaser I have is a Bender.

[PATheron]

Casey- It is and I just got it working. I bought the check valves. The only thing is it takes 30 seconds to dump. Hes putting it on 260 taps. Do you think that will be ok? Its slow with the small discharge hole. Now, something neat Ive found out. I have one just like it only its a universal. Im plumbing that up now. That one has a real big discharge. Like maybe 1.25 inch. Im going to get that one done tomarrow and time that. Thats the one I might use but maybe Ill let my buddy use it this year If we dont think his will dump fast enough. So watch for the universal ones. Theron

[caseyssugarshack93]

thats should be fine theron, for the discharge try a flapper valve is if not and it might dump faster because there wont be as much of a restricion maybe like the flapper in the check valve? not sure, im going to try it, but anyways, you can probably run like 350 on the releaser, how it is,and if for some season you had more taps like 400+ you can make up a manifold like dennis and have you mains go to that, then fromthe bottom of the manifold to the inlet of the releaser with a check valve, but i have 250 taps on one last year and its worked great,

[farmall h]

Casey, think I could run both jars at the same time or should I build a manifold just for the large one?
I was thinking why not take the existing hardware from my small releaser jar and make a bigger releaser. Extend the float rod to the outlet and try to adapt the cap & gasket (vac inlet) to a sch80 pvc tube. Say 4ft X 12" vertical tube.

[caseyssugarshack93]

well it all depends on how many taps you plan on running with it?

[caseyssugarshack93]

as for the small washer bender you have, you probably could do that take the top vac part, and somehow get it to fit ontop of the pvc, and make a like a 2-3 inch outlet like a bernard, if your only going to be running like 300-400 or so then just make a 10$ manifold and you should be set,

[farmall h]

Well I would like to run 1200 taps on it. Like I said earlier in this thread I tried it at the tail-end of the season and release action was to slow. I'll keep you posted. I scrounged up some material at work today and plan to do some inventing this weekend. Time permitting. Thank's for your input.

[caseyssugarshack93]

id say with a flapper valve on the bottom probably 500 taps max, and with a manifold maybe like 800-1000, depends on the size of the manifold, just the dumping would take a wile to you would wnat a big manifold probably 6 or 8 inch, but i think if you have a big manifold it would work for 1200 taps, but you would have to try it and see its all about testing and giving results, keep me updated

hope i helped some,

[caseyssugarshack93]

forgot to add, The guy that had these before said he ran one on 550 taps and he said it worked for him he said it would fill and the dump right off but he said it worked, but i dont know either, i only ran 250 taps on one, but id say 500 max for releaser without being modified somehow, with a manifold or doing like you saide use some big pvc and try and adapt the top part to the pvc

[farmall h]

Casey how much vac were you able to run on your jar?

[caseyssugarshack93]

well in my youtube vid you can see i dont have a vac regulator and the pumps pulls 27 with the vac shut off so i was probably pulling 25, and it didnt hang up as you can see in the video

[farmall h]

That's in the range I was running as well. Thx.

[Grade "A"]

You may have to add some weight to the float to help reset it with the higher vac. I added some stainless washers to mine.

[farmall h]

Grade A, I took apart My Bender glass receiver and will be modifying a Delaval milk pail. Monday it will go down to work and I will have one of the maintenance guys weld a s/s cover from a bulk tank ontop. Next, he will cut a 4 3/4" hole in the center of cover and weld a 5" OD nipple over hole. Once this is complete I will lengthen float rod so it sets about an inch into the 2" outlet (bottom of pail). Reset where float bottoms out: grind slot for hair-pin. Welded nipple at the outlet will have a 2" check vlv or possibly flap-handle like the upside down milk can that is posted on youtube. The vacuum mechanism cover with rod/weight attached should set down in the pail, hopefully. The original cast aluminum bracket I will cut in half. Should be able lagbolt each half to a 2 x 8 to mount the pail vertically. Hopefully, with a larger side inlet (1") vs. 1/2" and a 2" outlet. It should work more effectively. As it is now, it wouldn't dump fast enough.
If it doesn't work...no great loss $, just dubbing time.

[Grade "A"]

I hope it works well for you. I would love to see it when your done.

[maplwrks]

Has any one put 26" to a glass receiver jar? This would be the large receivers that you would see on a large dairy pipeline system. I had a friend of mine ask me if it would handle that high vacuum. He has seen them break. He also asked if you guys have ever put high vac. to a stainless receiver. Will it collapse it??

[caseyssugarshack93]

well i had my bb2 on one without a regulator must of been pulling atleast 25 but my reciever is a mechanial one , i know bender made ones that you need a pump like a electric releaser but i dont see why you couldnt still run the same vac, check out my vid,

[farmall h]

Maplwrks, generally when the jar is in operation for milking it is running about 18". I believe we ran 15-18" to the milking machine and it was all run on the same line..no regulator. I feel strongly the the glass & s/s should be able to take alot of vacuum. Of course if you seal it off and apply vacuum...you can break it.