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sap runner
01-06-2010, 09:16 PM
Bought a used 2x6,getting it set up and syrup pan float rubber washer and the elbow are not 90 degress to each other and is not going to shut the flow off which I can see without even putting water in my tank.Thinking maybe starting with a new elbow to increase the distance?Any thoughts would be great.

dschultz
01-07-2010, 04:46 AM
sap runner,where you located in WI?

Flat47
01-07-2010, 05:23 AM
The rubber packing should be able to pivot a bit on the connecting arm. Don't sock down the screw that goes through the center of the packing - just tighten it some. It should have a lock nut on the backside.
Let's back up a bit. Are the connections from flue pan to syrup pan lined up? One pan isn't on ceramic blanket/insulation? Packing is white, correct? White is softer than black, and does a better job (in my opinion).
Post a picture if you can.
I think if you've got it all set up and the packing is just a bit off, the wiggle in the mount of the packing will compensate. And really, I've never been able to get a float to "seal". Mostly it just kinda limits flow and always lets sap by. Maybe that's by design.
Hope that helped some.

maplwrks
01-07-2010, 05:31 AM
Like Flat said, The rubber gasket material on the float arm should pivot to accomodate to ninety. My floats will shut off the flow to the pans--i guess I'm very fortunate in that respect. I've boiled on a couple of rigs where you had to babysit the floats and it's not much fun.

Grade "A"
01-07-2010, 07:27 AM
I had a 2x6 Small Brothers that the floats also leaked a little. It was ok to deal with because the leak was alot less then the pan would boil. The floats on my Patrick Phaneuf 2x6 will totaly shut off the flow. I do like the tight floats better because it helps keep the level you want in you syrup pan when you are starting up and shuting down.

Rolaids
01-07-2010, 03:52 PM
Grade A
I have the problem....think Leader still sells them?

ps: what town are you in?

sap runner
01-07-2010, 04:40 PM
Think I found a fix,a rubber stopper from a sink which is taller and will make up the distance so my street L fitting and float lever are parallel to each other.Will try tonight again and post tommorrow. location Shawano,Wi

Smitty
01-07-2010, 04:44 PM
sap runner,
i have been running a small brothers since 1992, the float will probably never
seal 100 percent, but i had to replace the float seals last year. the original
seals are about 1/4-3/8 thick foam. hard to find. i used 1/8 thick soft
rubber with a couple of stainless steel washers underneath. just add the correct amount of washers till the seal is 90 degress to the elbow. i hopes this
helps you.



good luck,
Al Smith

sap runner
01-07-2010, 04:47 PM
by the way thanks for the help to all,i forgot one thing the arm I have,the cup is rivited on an not adjustable,maybe this rig came over on the mayflower, not sure of the year.

Flat47
01-07-2010, 06:32 PM
Cup is for the flue pan. Goes on an arm with two prongs on the other end and a piece of threaded rod goes through the middle of it, running from the wall of the float box to the wall of the flue pan. The cup hangs down. Flue pan float is the larger one.

The syrup pan float control arm is hinged, one end slips over the inlet elbow and is fastened in place by a set screw (or threaded rod bent into an L). The other end has the two prongs for the float. Syrup pan uses the smaller float.

Not sure, but sounds like maybe parts got mixed up. Or, like you said, you have an older set-up. What I described was stock on rigs from late '80s on.

sap runner
01-07-2010, 10:07 PM
flat 47,I have a bottom feed float box on my flue pan with a plug of sorts stopper and a adjustable float rod,as for the front syrup pan it does have the cast alum bracket and threaded rod setup however both of my floats are the same size.By the way one of the floats itself leaks and I could use a different one.

Flat47
01-08-2010, 05:23 AM
Maybe the smaller rigs had same sized floats. You've got the typical Small Brothers set-up, so I think it's just a matter of adjusting things. Bascoms used to stock new packings and floats. Maybe it needs a new packing to better stop the flow. A leaking float will cause all kinds of headaches. Replace it or have it fixed.

Grade "A"
01-08-2010, 07:20 AM
Grade A
I have the problem....think Leader still sells them?

ps: what town are you in?

Last I saw leader had gaskets for the floats if that is what your talking about. The gaskets on my new floats are thick, maybe 3/8".

I live in Hinesburg and the sugar house is in Starksboro.

farmall h
01-08-2010, 08:40 PM
Grade A,
I see Rolaids finally registered. He is my uncle and we are in it together. Saw you were located in VT so guess he had to ask. Never know you could be just down the road. Guess I'll check the Leader website in St.ALbans to order a gasket for the front pan float. Our pan is set up to switch the float in order to drawoff on either side. I assume yours was too.

sap runner
01-09-2010, 08:02 AM
anyone have an old style small bro float with the wing nut adjuster on it ?

farmall h
01-09-2010, 08:35 AM
Sapprunner, what happened to the original float system? On the 4 x 12 small bros. there are copper spacers and gaskets that connect the front & rear pan. I would recommend you order a new float system from Leader or it will never be right for you. The gasket even on a new float will not completely shut the flow off when your not boiling..that is why there is a gate valve connected in-line to the front pan and float. The float is only there to control the flow while boiling.

Grade "A"
01-09-2010, 10:55 AM
Grade A,
I see Rolaids finally registered. He is my uncle and we are in it together. Saw you were located in VT so guess he had to ask. Never know you could be just down the road. Guess I'll check the Leader website in St.ALbans to order a gasket for the front pan float. Our pan is set up to switch the float in order to drawoff on either side. I assume yours was too.

Yes, the one I had was able to switch side for draw-off. If you don't see the gaskets on their wedsite try calling them, they have parts in the warehouse that are not listed in the book.

unclebuck
01-09-2010, 12:53 PM
My leader 2x6 drop flue float also leaks past.but I think I might have fixed it finally. When I took the float assembly off I turned it up side down and noticed how close the arm was to the square base(almost touching)then I realized that the pivot pin was bent a little. by straightning this pin or slightly bending it in the opposite direction it leagthened the distance from the float arm to the squre base allowing the cup more room to seat.It seamed to close off when we test boiled with water last week.

Uncle Buck

Flat47
01-09-2010, 06:27 PM
anyone have an old style small bro float with the wing nut adjuster on it ?

Trying calling Bascoms. They usually have all kinds of good used stuff that's not listed on thier web site.

As an alternative, if you drill a small hole in the leaky float, then blow compressed air into the float, you can find the hole and solder over both holes. Sometimes you have to do it in a sink full of water to find the leak (bubbles appearing from the leak).

But, sometimes it's easier to buy a replacement than mess around with the old.

adk1
07-30-2010, 12:01 PM
There is a 2x4 Small brothers in the Classifieds 7 years old for $1,200. I am interested in the unit but dont have any experience with the make. Only experience is with Leader. Anyone have any thoughts on this evap? Been looking into the WF Mason as well...A 2x4 WF Mason is the same price new!

Haynes Forest Products
07-30-2010, 05:50 PM
All the floats that I have seen and had already have a hole in them Its the tall skinny tube that is part of the bracket. Its there to compensate the air pressure in the float during heating and cooling.